Mike and Terry, and others - Ok Guys - my info on the carb float tab was not correct. I actually confused myself. Following is Jeremiah C's post back on Feb. 25 at 9:59PM and one of his pics showing the old and new style floats:
(Credit the following to Jeremiah):
Donald Tanner: Larry Carter may be on to something. I was having trouble with flooding on the #30 carb on my 149. I discovered in the Service Manual that there are actually two tabs on a Kohler/Carter float that need to be adjusted. The larger tab keeps the float from tipping up too far allowing the fuel level to rise so high that it overwhelms the mixing tubes resulting in rough idle and a rich high speed mixture. The second tang keeps the float from dipping down too far. The reason for keeping the float from dropping down too far into the bowl I suspect is because the float can get hung up on the bottom of the bowl which keeps the needle valve from seating. The carb is effectively flooding the engine because the gas never stops entering the bowl: these were the symptoms I encountered, and it sounds like the symptoms you're having.
My float was missing the second tang, when I replaced my float, the problem went away. The design of the float has been modified slightly over time. I took pictures of the old and new floats.
(End Credit to Jeremiah)
As you can see in the pic the old style has one tab which is horizontal. The new style has an extra vertical tab.
I think I got confused since I don't recall ever having used the new style, and the Service manual refers to it, and so do instructions that sometimes come with the gasket kits. I do think Jeremiah originally thought one of the 2 tabs had broken off his float and that was causing his problem, when more likely his float was bad (leaking) which was really causing his problem. The string at that time may have arrived at that conclusion. In any event, I suspect Mike has a bad float.
I also suspect David S does have a float setting or operation problem BUT I would suggest that David start with replacing the needle and seat (and gaskets) to begin with and check the float setting. The original one tab floats have worked fine for years in these units and will continue to as far as I'm concerned, as long as the float ain't leaky. David could go thru the process of trying to test his float, or at least shake it around and listen for any sloshing. I never had much luck trying to test one, just easier, quicker to replace it and know the it's good (or at least hope a new one is good).
Now, I have to add one more thing - what is the correct needle and seat kit for the #26 and #30 carbs?????? I've heard from others the kits that end in 01-S and 02-S are interchangable and work in both carbs. I've also heard the 01-S has to be used in the #26 and can be used in the #30. They do have a "slightly" different seat. For me I've only ever used an 01-S in a #26 and an 02-S in a #30. I believe that's what the parts listing shows more often than not.
So David, I don't know which carb you have on your 1250 but recommend the needle and seat kit ending in 01-S for a #26 and ending in 02-S for a #30 carb.
Hey HotRod - boy you really got yourself into a real restoration this time. I don't think I'd be trying to start that engine until you have had a look see inside, and until you know what you're putting into it - all the way from the tank thru the carb. No sense making anything worse than it is. I just gotta get down your way to see your stuff. Maybe I could even learn something - since it's been awhile for me.
