Frank S., If I were attempting to clean the cooling fins on the flywheel, I would remove the engine from the tractor. Not sure what manual you are using for flywheel shroud removal? With the engine removed, you would have alot more room for disassembly. Also, you can then clean the debris from the frame/clutch area. This is just my thinking, the engine in a 128 can be removed in under 40 minutes if not less.
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Archive through April 16, 2009
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Todd,
When I'm organized I can have a motor out in 15 min or less. That's one of the main reasons that I love the 1x9 series.
On that note, usually a guy can do a pretty reasonable job of de-mousing / cleaning the fins with out messing with the fan shroud.
Pulling the other tins and a long air nozzle to blast away will do it ...most of the time.
When I'm organized I can have a motor out in 15 min or less. That's one of the main reasons that I love the 1x9 series.
On that note, usually a guy can do a pretty reasonable job of de-mousing / cleaning the fins with out messing with the fan shroud.
Pulling the other tins and a long air nozzle to blast away will do it ...most of the time.
Greg, I have a 1963 off topic tractor that was doing the same thing and finally corrected it by putting a Briggs and Straton plastic screen type fuel filter (gravity flow) on it. Apparently some paper fuel filters only work properly with an engine with a pump. Don't know if you are running a pump or not. Any way it is inexpensive enough to try.
Carl Sr.
Carl Sr.
Rick., I was only guessing at the removal time. I have never had to remove a Kholer in a hurry, nor have I ever been organized! The air blast method would work well, but I don't want a dead mouse throwin off my flywheel balance
Frank S,
Your pto handle has a turnbuckle on it. Loosen it up or maybe even loosen it to disconnect. Then the clutch shaft will move forward enough to allow for the belt removal. Reassemble in reverse order. Hope this helps. Don't lose your wear button.
Your pto handle has a turnbuckle on it. Loosen it up or maybe even loosen it to disconnect. Then the clutch shaft will move forward enough to allow for the belt removal. Reassemble in reverse order. Hope this helps. Don't lose your wear button.
Greg - You could have given the gas tank the needed air it was gasping for when you removed the cap. Check to see if the cap vent hole is clear.
I thought that I had ran out of gas once on a tiller with a plastic tank ... took off the cap and the tank expanded back out to it's normal size
With it lugging down , I'd check the timing and/or the point gap. I had my points close up and do that once.
PSA ... I'm not here ...
I thought that I had ran out of gas once on a tiller with a plastic tank ... took off the cap and the tank expanded back out to it's normal size
With it lugging down , I'd check the timing and/or the point gap. I had my points close up and do that once.
PSA ... I'm not here ...
lkortkamp
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- Larry
Ok, a couple pics of the new toy:
the blade:
Notice the blade was widened 12" total. Very nice job, only needs a touch of paint to finish it.
Got it out this evening, removed the deck and installed the blade. Pushed some old mulch pile around and then put deck back on to test it for mowing.
Everything seems to work fine. Can't wait for a few more weeks when the grass is tall enough to actually cut.
The one thing I noticed is the steering wheel has been installed outta whack. Is it hard to pull and put on straight?
the blade:
Notice the blade was widened 12" total. Very nice job, only needs a touch of paint to finish it.
Got it out this evening, removed the deck and installed the blade. Pushed some old mulch pile around and then put deck back on to test it for mowing.
Everything seems to work fine. Can't wait for a few more weeks when the grass is tall enough to actually cut.
The one thing I noticed is the steering wheel has been installed outta whack. Is it hard to pull and put on straight?
glippert
Well-known member
Ken - Great to see you back. Lookin' at you new pic, it's easy to see you've been too busy fishin' to hang around here. Welcome back - I'll sleep better tonight knowin' you're on duty!
Thanks for the tiller info I looked up the tiller on the parts lookup and it shows the same front drive for the 108 and the 127 which one is wide and one is narrow. I will post on the wanted later. Thanks again for all the info Just wanted to say I think this forum is great tons of info and real nice people. Cant get myself to go on the HD forums much nicer here.
glippert
Well-known member
Larry K - Steering wheel removal isn't too tough. Get a can of PB Blaster and soak the nut on the steering wheel every day for a few days. Meanwhile, read the FAQ's above for detailed instructions on the use of the "world-famous" steering wheel removal tool. Good luck!
Scott T, thanks for the pics of your hyd. aux. That really looks neat. M ine is a hydro, I dont know if my tranny has a shaft sticking out the back to hook a pump up to. I did notice a small pulley on the end of the flywheel before the rag joint today, however it looks like it wouldnt give much room for a pump there. I did get some chains on my tires and 120 lbs weight on the rear today. made it feel like a whole lot more of a tractor. Maybe one of these days I can get mine as slick as you all have yours. Anyway thanks again for the help. Tim
Hi
I just got a 149
my first wide front. i am toying with an idea of hooking up a separate lift for deck. I was thinking of a linear actuator. Have others successfully done this?
what does that black knob by the lift do?
I just got a 149
my first wide front. i am toying with an idea of hooking up a separate lift for deck. I was thinking of a linear actuator. Have others successfully done this?
what does that black knob by the lift do?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Larry K.-
Kind of. You remove the screw first, but that decal thing is also glued in, so you carefully peel it up after removing the screw. A heat gun might be necessary to soften the adhesive. Then you can just remove the nut and pull off the wheel using one of the methods described in the FAQ.
Kind of. You remove the screw first, but that decal thing is also glued in, so you carefully peel it up after removing the screw. A heat gun might be necessary to soften the adhesive. Then you can just remove the nut and pull off the wheel using one of the methods described in the FAQ.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Larry
Nice Toy!
Before removing the steering wheel to "straighten it", I'd check to see that it turns equal distance in both directions.
It could be a simple tie-rod-end adjustment on either the tie-rod or the drag-link (or combination of both..) to get the steering wheel back "straight".
Just a thought.....
Ken-
The tribe has spoken. You need to stay now.......
Nice Toy!
Before removing the steering wheel to "straighten it", I'd check to see that it turns equal distance in both directions.
It could be a simple tie-rod-end adjustment on either the tie-rod or the drag-link (or combination of both..) to get the steering wheel back "straight".
Just a thought.....
Ken-
The tribe has spoken. You need to stay now.......
