Shultzie, Cub Cadet Parts Lookup is your friend. Item # 15:
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Archive through April 15, 2013
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Shultzie,
Yepper, those CCC machines can be a PITA. Hint Hint!
Yepper, those CCC machines can be a PITA. Hint Hint!
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Schultzie-
He's referring to the fact that you called it a "clutch pedal" but it's a Hydro-tractor.
That is what you meant..? Right Charlie?
He's referring to the fact that you called it a "clutch pedal" but it's a Hydro-tractor.
That is what you meant..? Right Charlie?
Me thinks Charlie was hinting that Shultzie should have asked his question in the "CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment" forum area...
It's red and it's pretty, but it's still a CCC machine.
But we'll cut him a little slack today, just cause we can!
But we'll cut him a little slack today, just cause we can!
mfrade
Well-known member
I started gettin my mowers ready today. all but one started up just fine. the boys 682 didnt even try to fire. keep trying lill things then just took carb off. And that where my question lies. The gas in the bowl had turned to jello over winter. Now I put lucas gas treatment in all my cubs and even sta bil for the ones that sat all winter. They were all fine. I just don't know why that one turned into jello. Any thoughts? Thanks Jim
akleyla
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 299
- displayname
- Amy J. Kleyla
Snow ? We barely had any this year
Its 65 here today an was 73 yesterday! I took the blower off last week an have been prepping things to get to painting.
Im glad I took the deck apart because I found a few rusted spots that are getting new metal and my tension pulley had the bearing wore out.Im going to prime the deck today and the mule drive then will paint things wed. after my trip to chicago at the VA.
Anyone wants too feel free to come paint my cub for me,I wont mind at all...LOL
Ohhh,an yes its going back yellow an white because I decided it should be original even though the pink would still look good.I'll try to get some pics as I get them painted. I still need to get my seat fixed or find me a new one.
BTW,keep the snow im enjoying the shorts
Its 65 here today an was 73 yesterday! I took the blower off last week an have been prepping things to get to painting.
Im glad I took the deck apart because I found a few rusted spots that are getting new metal and my tension pulley had the bearing wore out.Im going to prime the deck today and the mule drive then will paint things wed. after my trip to chicago at the VA.
Anyone wants too feel free to come paint my cub for me,I wont mind at all...LOL
Ohhh,an yes its going back yellow an white because I decided it should be original even though the pink would still look good.I'll try to get some pics as I get them painted. I still need to get my seat fixed or find me a new one.
BTW,keep the snow im enjoying the shorts
Shultzie,
Now that's just sacrilege!
Now that's just sacrilege!
kostendorf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
James,
Oct. 1979
Go to the top of this page and click on Frequently asked questions then pick no. 10 to look at info about serial no.
Oct. 1979
Go to the top of this page and click on Frequently asked questions then pick no. 10 to look at info about serial no.
Just finished doing these pads for my buddies 169. They turned out pretty nice.
The pads are a tad smaller than original but it allowed me to make more from the sheet of material. I have enough for another set and I could use a bunch.
The pads are a tad smaller than original but it allowed me to make more from the sheet of material. I have enough for another set and I could use a bunch.
Shultzie,
Wayne, nice job!
Wayne, nice job!
mgwin
Well-known member
Wayne,
Nice! Wanna do me a set?
Nice! Wanna do me a set?
Thanks guys.
Marty-
With your skills you could knock out a set in no time. The friction material is the most costly but for less than $25 you can do 2 1/2 sets if I figured right. Like most restoration it takes more time than anything waiting for things to dry/cure.
Marty-
With your skills you could knock out a set in no time. The friction material is the most costly but for less than $25 you can do 2 1/2 sets if I figured right. Like most restoration it takes more time than anything waiting for things to dry/cure.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Its time for me to pick people's brains again!
I have been working in the garage for the past few weeks on my two tractors (982 with original Onan & 100 with K241) and to say the least I am FRUSTRATED!!!
Over the past almost month, people have been suggesting things to help me out. Some have helped a little, but in the end, I am still stuck with two Cubs that don't run. I need to get them running soon or the wife will have them at the end of the lane with a FOR SALE sign on them. YIKES!
So far, I have removed the Onan from the 982 to replace the original starter. I order one from Onan direct, talk about quick service, WOW! I have it installed now, had to lengthen the positive cable to the solenoid. (Replaced that with 8GA wire, new from one end to the other, soldered the ends on after crimping them). Carb has been removed, stripped down and soaked in carb cleaner for 4 days. Cleaned it up and re-assembled it. No new gaskets since they are not that old and still in good shape. They would be lucky if they have 30 hours on them. Gas tank was drained, flushed, reinstalled. New in-line fuel filter was installed as well. Charged up the battery after cleaning all the posts and the connections to the battery as well as the frame and solenoid. Finally got to crank it over and it spun REALLY good compared to when the old starter was on. Cranked it for a long time and then it would get back into its slow cranking as if there was not enough juice or it was filling up with fuel perhaps? Tried it different ways, with or with out the choke on. At first I didn't think it was getting any fuel, so I dumped some gas down the carb, maybe 1/4 of a cup at the most. Still didn't work. Figured it just wasn't firing, so I pulled the plugs, they were wet and they had good spark too. After running the battery down after trying different things over the course of 3 hours, I had to try something different. I hooked it up to the truck and boosted it off it. Well, the starter spun then! Holy Crap! Still wouldn't fire though.
So what is wrong?? I even removed the points cover, cleaned up the two contacts too, they were a little black/grey colour, now they are fairly shinny. Only thing that has not been replaced on this engine since I have had it is the points and the coil. Now one thing I did notice, when it was NOT hooked up to the truck, It would crank and sometimes stop cranking and the solenoid would click, other times it would do nothing? I changed the solenoid out with another one I had here. It came on the tractor when I bought it, I changed it a couple years ago thinking that was one of my starting problems only to find out it was my pto switch. So I don't think the solenoid is the issue?
So... any suggestions? Is it going to be the points that are messed up? IF so, how do they just STOP working? What causes that? I didn't try cranking the engine over with the points cover off, too much gas and other fumes floating around, didn't need to light up my garage! I am guessing this is what you guys are going to suggest, check or change the points? Prove me wrong, make it a simple quick fix!
The 100 had a whack of things changed on it last fall and tuned up and was running good until it would not speed up, it would only sit on idle. So this spring I drained, flushed out and put in new, fresh gas, cleaned the carb, (I think I have now dropped it into the carb solution now 4 times sine I started working on it. I can not get it to stop spitting gas out the bottom hole of the carb on the air filter side when I crank it over(its Carter N carb). I adjusted the float so it was parallel to the body of the carb, it was only off by maybe 1/16" if that. I am now at the point of thinking my float is sitting too low and I might need a new one? It only has the one tab on it, I noticed that before I called it a night due to frustration. I didn't notice any brass pieces sitting in the bowl any time that I removed it for cleaning. I need to look at suppliers sites to confirm. I did get the fuel line seals (rubber quad ring type inside the brass fittings), they are working great!
Anyone care to jump into my frustration room?
I have been working in the garage for the past few weeks on my two tractors (982 with original Onan & 100 with K241) and to say the least I am FRUSTRATED!!!
Over the past almost month, people have been suggesting things to help me out. Some have helped a little, but in the end, I am still stuck with two Cubs that don't run. I need to get them running soon or the wife will have them at the end of the lane with a FOR SALE sign on them. YIKES!
So far, I have removed the Onan from the 982 to replace the original starter. I order one from Onan direct, talk about quick service, WOW! I have it installed now, had to lengthen the positive cable to the solenoid. (Replaced that with 8GA wire, new from one end to the other, soldered the ends on after crimping them). Carb has been removed, stripped down and soaked in carb cleaner for 4 days. Cleaned it up and re-assembled it. No new gaskets since they are not that old and still in good shape. They would be lucky if they have 30 hours on them. Gas tank was drained, flushed, reinstalled. New in-line fuel filter was installed as well. Charged up the battery after cleaning all the posts and the connections to the battery as well as the frame and solenoid. Finally got to crank it over and it spun REALLY good compared to when the old starter was on. Cranked it for a long time and then it would get back into its slow cranking as if there was not enough juice or it was filling up with fuel perhaps? Tried it different ways, with or with out the choke on. At first I didn't think it was getting any fuel, so I dumped some gas down the carb, maybe 1/4 of a cup at the most. Still didn't work. Figured it just wasn't firing, so I pulled the plugs, they were wet and they had good spark too. After running the battery down after trying different things over the course of 3 hours, I had to try something different. I hooked it up to the truck and boosted it off it. Well, the starter spun then! Holy Crap! Still wouldn't fire though.
So... any suggestions? Is it going to be the points that are messed up? IF so, how do they just STOP working? What causes that? I didn't try cranking the engine over with the points cover off, too much gas and other fumes floating around, didn't need to light up my garage! I am guessing this is what you guys are going to suggest, check or change the points? Prove me wrong, make it a simple quick fix!
The 100 had a whack of things changed on it last fall and tuned up and was running good until it would not speed up, it would only sit on idle. So this spring I drained, flushed out and put in new, fresh gas, cleaned the carb, (I think I have now dropped it into the carb solution now 4 times sine I started working on it. I can not get it to stop spitting gas out the bottom hole of the carb on the air filter side when I crank it over(its Carter N carb). I adjusted the float so it was parallel to the body of the carb, it was only off by maybe 1/16" if that. I am now at the point of thinking my float is sitting too low and I might need a new one? It only has the one tab on it, I noticed that before I called it a night due to frustration. I didn't notice any brass pieces sitting in the bowl any time that I removed it for cleaning. I need to look at suppliers sites to confirm. I did get the fuel line seals (rubber quad ring type inside the brass fittings), they are working great!
Anyone care to jump into my frustration room?
Mike, if that Onan is anything like the Onan model CCKB in my Allis Chalmers 620 the points setup just plain sucks. Oil gets into the points box via the push rod hole. New push rod didn't fix it either. I have to regularly clean and reset the timing of the points. Have you checked the timing of the points? Also, my Onan will kill spark plugs. Usually it's the plug in the left cylinder. Not sure why but it will just quit working. I keep a supply of new plugs on hand. Sounds like your plugs have spark but I thought I'd mention that issue my CCKB has.
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