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Archive through April 15, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Mike Patterson

I think Kraig is correct on the points; Just a little oil can mess them up.On your 100 I would replace the float. I had a bad float on my 125 and well i went thought I think three points condenser and coils till I replace the float and found my problem . It would idle but not go to wot also. good luck and please tell us what you find.

? What Happened to Hydro Harry
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Hey Don T - hey I'm here. I haven't posted because I just agree with recommendations. I remember having that problem with gas coming out the lower hole of the carb before, and I'm pretty certain the fix is as you suggest, replacing the float. I don't know anything about Onan's so I can't comment on that issue.

I should add that Wayne sure did a nice job on those pads. I really should replace them on my 169. And Shultzie should do a little more photo shop praticing before posting his pics. Charlie gave him a BIG break on that one even to just comment on it.

Oh, guess I could add something - here's a little unit my son picked up the other day when he was hauling the trash bins back. Yes there is a Cub under neath it.
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Morning all - have a K161 that I removed from a '63 Original and curious if it is the correct engine for a 71. It has the dipstick as opposed to the plug by the oil pan if that helps identify it at all. Don't have the spec number off hand but can dig it out if needed. Thanks
 
Kraig,
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I thought the points were fairly clean when I looked at them, guess I will have another look! So how do you guys clean your points? Emery cloth? Anyone have a picture of points that are DONE? Anyone ever use Kirk's set up on an Onan, it worth the money or does it make a difference on these picky engines? No offence Kirk, looks like a neat set up - I am just having "issues" with my engine!

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Mike, I may use a little Emery cloth. also have heard to double a dollar bill and slide thru the contacts.
 
MIKE - Over the 12-13 yrs I've had my 982 I have to agree with KRAIG. The points design on the B48G Onan is terrible. My 982 died once right after I started mowing 6-8 yrs ago. Was running fine then just like I turned the key off it died. I s-l-o-w-l-y pulled it back to the shop to investigate. The points looked like they'd been dipped in 90W gear oil. I cleaned them up with Brake-Clean, reinstalled them and it ran. But every year or so I have to re-gap them because the adjustment won't stay put. They adjust similar to GM points for those old enough to remember Delco distributors on SBC's. Ohh, and you're only supposed to use a POINTS FILE to clean the contact surfaces on points. NEVER sand paper or emery cloth. A piece of cardboard soaked with Brake-Clean is O-K to get light oxidation off but won't recondition burned contacts.

I'd replace BOTH the points & condensor. The new condensors don't last NEAR as long as the old Made in USA ones did years ago. I fought that battle 2-3 yrs ago with my 982. New plugs, gapped the points, new fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and it still ran poor. New points & condensor and it ran fine. Problem disappeared as fast as it appeared.

On both the Onan & Kohler carbs you do have to take the carbs apart some to really get them clean. Some even suggest removing the Welch plugs blocking some intersecting passages but I don't go that far, too hard to replace them and make sure they seal. Compressed air to blow out the fuel & air passages in the carb body & main fuel needle is required. Can of spray carb cleaner as well as the soak can helps too. Then "Use CLEAN fuel and keep it clean"! That's a direct quote from the IH service & operator's manual on ALL 1950's & '60's vintage tractors. I recommend using only non-ethanol gas, 91 or higher octane. And I don't use ANY MMO, Stabil, or Sea Foam. I have been known to use stale (over 90 days old) 2-stroke 50:1 premix gas for 2-stroke engines in chain saws, string trimmers, & leaf blowers to winterize engines. The oil prevents corrosion inside the carb. And use a good in-line gas filter. A sediment bulb is NOT a good gas filter. The brass screen is too coarse plus there's gaps that can let big chunks get through.

Also, on the ONAN float, there's a little finger on the float that has to go on the underside of the head of the main fuel needle. Different than the Carter carb on the Kohler. Be easy to miss that.

Quickest way to determine if you have good spark is to hook up an Inductive timing light to a plug wire, doesn't matter which one on the Onan as both plugs fire at the same time every revolution. And the Kohler only has one plug wire. Crank the engine over and if the timing light lights up you have enough spark for the engine to run. And you have a fuel/carb problem.

I normally don't comment on these, "My CC won't run! What do I do?" posts. But since I've had experience with the Onan B48G in the 982's and have a K241 about ready to run after a complete rebuild in the shop, I thought I'd comment.
 
Thanks for the input. I just was too geared up for trying the tiller out. I knew better.
My first clue should have been no tilling when you still have snow in the garden.
Okay on the tow rope, yes it was on the seat spring, but just for a photo op.

I did think about seeing if the CCO would pull it out but it got stuck before I could even hook it up. Sometimes I just try to be funny. My wife reminds me I am no comedian.

Hydro,

Nice find if you need someplace for storage give me a yell. I would have a good home.
 
Hydro, hmmm, low tunnel, round fenders, appears it has a double slant grill frame with a 1x2/3 series grill screen, is that a 72 or a 73 under that loader? Looks like it has a replacement engine of a larger HP due to the large air filter. I'm going to guess it's a 72 with a 12hp and the grill screen from a 1x2/3 series. Though it could be a 71 if the grill is not a double slant...
 
Going to rebuild my Creeper. Have removed the snap ring direct drive coupling and shift collar are in alinment, no moovement on the bearing cage. Any help appreciated.
Thank you,
Bob Underwood
 
Bob U.
You actually should take it apart from the other end.
Remove the pin holding the engaging yoke through the bottom hole, slide the shift handle out and go from there.
You mention the bearing cage. Are you referring to the planetary gear cluster?
 
Working on a 1250 getting ready to reinstall the carb.
This 1/8" thick hard plastic spacer was there originally w/a thin gasket on both sides. Wondering if it is something a PO had installed or is it OEM??

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Would anyone know what to do if my Cub Cadet 1811 keeps blowing fuses? It doesn't happen all the time. It's random, sometimes when the key is turned and another time when the RPMs got higher and the lights were on... could there be a pinched wire or something going to the headlights? thats all i can think of. any help would be great
 
David,

Spacer is Kohler part and OK for re-use. Helps keep heat off of the carb.

Make sure you do the governor adjustment after you reinstall the carb, especially if you change the gasket/spacer.

Dane,

You'd have better luck over on the MTD/CCC page of this forum and your 1811 is an MTD Cub Cadet

(How'd I do Charlie...???)
 
Mike P.,

No offense taken. If you have issues with oil getting on the points, the PointSaver will probably make matters worse. Due to the small amount of current conducted through the points with this module installed, any contamination such as an oil film will cause loss of ignition entirely. Cleaning points with lacquer or contact cleaner will restore operation.

Be sure your crankcase breather is working properly. If not, excessive case pressure will cause oil to enter the breaker box.
 
Has anyone ever used the old narrow front wheels on a wideframe such as a 149 or 169? I am running out of wide rims. Having a problem with the bearings getting loose and have tried shimming and peening. All have been temporary fixes. I have several narrow rims and tires. Thanks!!
 
Is there a photo somewhere of a 1450 that shows where all the decals go?
 
Norm, here's some photos of Chris Bennett's 1450 that I believe should have the correct decal placement:

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Dave "G", <u>ALL</u> of my wide franes have narrow front rims. I prefer them over the wides.
 
hey wayne, where did you get the pad material for those pads, and how did you mount the maerial on the backings,,,,,do anybody else know??? thanks guys
 

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