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Archive through April 11, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Patrick F: Charlie isn't telling you the whole story. There are special punches designed to dislodge old, rusted-in, roll pins; they're called Roll Pin Punches. There is a write-up in the Machine Shop about them. Check out this link: HERE

I've used them and they work great! Basically, there is a "ball" on the end that pushes the center rolls first and kind of relieves the pressure so that you can get the pin started out. The problem with a regular flat pin punch is that before you can get it started, the end off the pin mushrooms, and then you can't ever get it started.

Old hands like Charlie know this and can account for it by getting it started WELL before it mushrooms. In other words, he and others are skilled in the use of a BFH or "Swing Arm Press" or whatever you want to call it. And he's right, the PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40 or the penetrant of your choice goes a long way to getting it started, which is the most important step.

I made a mess of the pins on my driveshaft the first time I tried to get them out, I was convinced that I would have to buy a new drive shaft and end pieces until my son, the Machinist Mate in the Navy tells me, "Hey Dad, we use those things all the time on the ship, they're nothing." He proceeded to get both of them out in a few minutes with a regular pin punch! --Made me feel stupid I got the roll pin punch set anyway, for those times he's not around, they make the job much easier!
 
Chasing parts for a 1650
Can anyone tell me what parts from A 682, if any, will fit a 1650 such as front axle, spindles,rear sheet metal fenders, and lift handle as that is about all that is left of the 682 and I need most of it if it will interchange.
I have to go look at it tonite and need to know ASAP

Please e-mail me or call 563-581-3005

Thanks Guys!
Dave Schwandt
 
Sorry for my ineptness in not being able to answer a question.
I'll lurk and curtail my fingers until I can become more proficient at writing a 3 page dissertation on beating a simple pin out of a drive shaft.
 
Charlie will you be using big exspensive words or will you keep them simple
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Is this an internal Brake 3 speed rear end?

My long term desire as far as the cub hobby goes would be to rebuild a 1200 like we owned when I was growing up. I've got a rolling carcass of a 1250 and have been keeping my eyes open for 3 speed rear. Is the one pictured an internal brake model? Something looks missing :)

Regardless, are the internal brake rears considered "better" and if so, why? Should I be looking for one or does it matter?

Finally, any guess on how much the rear weighs?

Thanks!

-Calvin

237696.jpg
 
Did someone say "Dissertation"?????
By my definition I believe that is "the art and science of how to say something using alot of words", and I most often practice that art using the scientific methods available on this Forum (except when restricted by Charlie).

Now, with regard to the roll pin removal discussions, Charlie's comment to Patrick last nite said:
"A hammer and a pin punch will work just fine". I had some initial thought to post the additon of just one word - "usually". But it was late and I backed off. Since I now see the discussions have continued and expanded to the tools involved I'd like to add some information.

1st, for the benefit of Patrick F - when attempting to remove your roll pin, please make sure you are supporting the coupling or whatever device the pin is going thru.
2nd, using a standard punch will tend to "mushroom" the top edge of the pin. If this happens STOP everything and get a file. If you proceed to punch the pin you'll never get it out (well maybe with about 12hours of punching it might just go thru). Any little burr on that pin will cause it to stick, lock, bind, etc., and not move. I actually like to start the entire process by filing the top edges of the old pin to insure there are no burrs or mushroomed edges to begin with.

Now, I hate to admit this but I don't own a set of those "roll pin punches". Back in the day (when I was really active working on these units) I wasn't aware of the roll pin punch and just used standard flat end punches. I must have acquired 20 different styles and versions since removing these roll pins can be a BIG problem. I eventually came upon a punch at a flea market and don't know what it may be called or it's intended use. The end is actually concave. I'm almost surprised no one has mentioned this style. The concave end fits over the top of the exposed end of the roll pin and keeps it from mushrooming. As most on here know, once you've gotten the roll pin to move a little it's sorta broke free and will usually move along and out with a few more hits. My concave end punch allows me to get the pin started. Because the end is obviously larger diameter than the pin I can't use it to completely remove the pin, but it gets it started in the right direction and keeps the end from mushrooming. I'll try post a pic, probably to the Machine Shop thread ont he punches, when I do get the pic.

And finally Patrick - I've heard of people resorting to the use of sawzalls and torches due to frustration with roll pin removal, so beware, plan extra time, use the penetrant, have a nice cushion to lay on, at least for your head, and whatever you do, don't try removing them on Friday The 13th.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (roll pins are forever)
 
I'm going to try to break free some time this weekend and pull the head on my 1650's K341 engine and check/remove any carbon build-up.

Any words of wisdom on removing carbon from an engine head?
 
Calvin, that is an internal brake 3 speed rear! Only thing I see missing is the Cub Cadet itself...wrap a frame around that, add some tires, and drive away.

I think that shift handle is for a wide frame, I say this because it looks different than my 122 or 72 handle.

Internal versus external brakes - I don't know. Mine just happen to be all internal brakes.

Weight? - HEAVY. My guess would be 150 pounds. If you're planning on picking it off the ground be prepared, its heavy!
 
Calvin, yes, that appears to be an internal brake, 3 speed rear end.

Under Edit: While I was reading Hydro's dissertation Vince slipped his post in.
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Well I had plans this am to get my 149 and my 129 loader out of winter storage,it was sunny when I started to install two batteries. Well they are now damp . I see the 149 does not charge
1a_scratchhead.gif
, it did charge when it went into the Cub shack
bash.gif
. So my snow blower got started and stored till next winter and I need to get my 100 running also. Wife is shopping with some girls from work so I have a few ME moments for my great tractors. I hope you all are having a great day.
hydro if I were you I would buy a set of pin punches ,they work slick .

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