Archive through April 09, 2012

rvanmersbergen · Apr 9, 2012

Hey Guys Im setting up a 105 with a plow. Some time back I saw a picture of a Cub on blocks doing adjusts. I need some pointers

sblunier · Apr 9, 2012

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/PlowSetup.htm

rvanmersbergen · Apr 9, 2012

Thats why your Mr.Plow thanks Steve

cmwkrill · Apr 9, 2012

Andrew:
Honestly, i can't tell you. I would suggest re-checking your wiring, and maybe testing the starter. I've never had to on mine, though, so don't be asking me for pointers. I don't pretend to know anything. when the simplicities at work have done that, my first thought is always dead battery. So, i hook a battery charger up and they take right off, or at least crank.
-------------------------------------------------
On the 126, well, i need a new coil.. I'm holding my breath to see how much the one my boss dug up will cost me.. Brand new from Kohler is $68, so i'm hoping this one will be around $40- $45.

cledford · Apr 9, 2012

Grease zerk pulled out of 44a spindle - repair possible?

I was greasing a bearing/spindle from a 44a deck this evening and the zerk pulled out of spindle. Is there any way to repair this? It's a good bearing otherwise and just need some cleaning.

Thanks,

Calvin

cledford · Apr 9, 2012

Gary,

I'm by no manys an expert - but something seems wrong. The front PTO oil seals seem to go easily on these tractors - dad had to do our 1200 at least twice over the years. I got my 1450 for a reasonable deal because it smoked SO BAD from oil spewing from the front PTO seal. I repaired mine and neither the old came out easy or the new went in smooth. I seem to recall a pretty tight fit. Is it possible you have the wrong seal?

Hope it doesn't seem I'm Monday morning quarterbacking - something just sound off...

Hope this helps,

Calvin

jchamberlin · Apr 10, 2012

Calvin: I think your Monday EVENING quarter-backing . . .

Charles Matthew Wayne Krill: You won't have to rebuild your carburetors if you run the tractor out of gas before putting it up for any length of time.

Donald Tanner: Any resolution to your oil leak issues on the 125? Last I knew, consensus had the problem at the oil pan, despite the fact you had re-installed it at least once.

dtanner · Apr 10, 2012

Jeremiah Chamberlin

I still have the oil leak. I installed a new gasket I got from Charlie and still the darn thing leaks. I will have to pull the pan again and have it checked to see if it is warped. My wife has the week off so NO cub work for me this week. seems the leak is near the point cover area .I will pull the 12 K again next week and repair or replace it.
I never had a problem like this before and did check the pan for cracks and did not see any.I would like to get the K running so I can paint the fenders and install the mower deck.I have so many Cub things to do .My loader needs power steering and the 1512 needs a refurb and then 54" blade installed to a sub frame that will work.My 61 Original needs paint and put back together.I have a long list and the 125 is not going together as planned.

cledford · Apr 10, 2012

Got a Tiny Tach - is WTO 3600 RPM with or without load?

I've been waiting forever to have the extra $ to purchase a Tiny Tach. I was finally able to order one 2 weeks ago.

I finally got a chance to work on the 1450 over the weekend. I set the throttle at 3600 RPM no load with the tiny tach. I noticed when I engage the PTO with a 44A deck mounted, the RPM (at WOT) would drop to around ~3000. Does this sound about right? If one has a tach available - would it be harmful to allow "room" at the top end for the extra 600 RPM? Ex. set the throttle at 3/4 WOT for 3600 RPM, so that with deck engaged the WOT would permit the extra 600 RPM?

Thanks for any thoughts,

-Calvin

jbaker · Apr 10, 2012

Don when I had my pan off it was very warped, I used the head surfacing method by Matt G and it worked very well and easy

I cant even get my smallest feeler under it now

rneubauer · Apr 10, 2012

Electrical Gremlins on a 1450-Son was mowing grass over the weekend, and front PTO clutch failed to engage. Found loose connection and clutch engaged, however I left the key on in the run position all night long. Next morning I put it back together and it would not turnover. I jumped the solenoid terminals and it roared to life, and electric pto clutch works. However now the solenoid seems to be bad. Sticker shock over the 34 dollar price tag, any suggestions before I committ to a non-returnable electrical part?

jeeilbes · Apr 10, 2012

Rob, I buy my solenoids at Fleet Farm. They are the ford style, they work the same. The only difference is they have two ports to power them up. The last one I bought was like $10.

sblunier · Apr 10, 2012

Get a plain-Jane Ford solenoid from A-Zone and save some cash.

Also consider an ignition switch issue...they are known for going bad and causing all kinds of issues.

tkouttron · Apr 10, 2012

dtanner · Apr 10, 2012

jeff l baker

I will use some water paper on a flat surface to see if the pan is correct. I`am getting good at removing the K and replacing it lol.

wshytle · Apr 10, 2012

Can someone tell me the actual amount of lubricant for a tiller gearbox? The manual I read states to fill to the lower level plug but mine is the stamped cover with no plugs at all. It seems I read somewhere a while back using grease was ok but the manual for the plugged gearboxes says to use SAE 80 gear oil.

I just checked the FAQs and Charlie says to use 90wt in the 3 bolt and factory grease in the stamped cover box or 4 bolt (he also states he prefers to use 75% grease and 25% 90wt) but it doesn't state the amount for the 4 bolt cover. I have no idea whether any pressure builds in the box during operation and I certainly don't want to underfill. I know this amount is documented somewhere but I'm not having luck finding the actual amount. I have a lot of time/effort invested here so I need to get it right.

Any help would be appreciated.

dtanner · Apr 10, 2012

Wayne Shytle

I have no idea how much I used on my tiller gear box . I used a synthetic gear box oil 80/90 and wheel bearing grease . I removed the cover and cleaned everything up and filled the gearbox to the top and bolted on the cover. The gear box oil will keep the grease from drying out and I think this is better. Plus the mixture won`t leak as easy since it is somewhat thicker that just the oil .

proessler · Apr 10, 2012

Wayne, in 1A oper. manual, page 4 pic shows gear box with level plugs.You can ballpark fill level from that visual. I've always used half full or to center of output shaft for gear boxes with 80/90-140w gear oil. With grease in Woods, Bushhog,etc. gearboxes I filled 70-90% full. Farm Oyl company makes Fluid Gear Grease-32 oz @$8 available @ CaseIH dealers...

hydroharry · Apr 10, 2012

Wayne S - find yourself one of those NC hills with a 45degree slope and park the tractor and tiller there so the gearbox is really level - then remove your gearbox cover since it doesn't have a fill plug and put 75% grease and 25% oil in it up to about 3/4" to 1" from the box top. Put your gasket and cover back on, snug down the 4 cover bolts (don't over tighten them) AND GET READY FOR SOME TILLIN' (heehaw!!!). I've opened some gear boxes where the grease was all dried out so the recommendation on some gear oil is a good idea to help avoid this.

Thomas K - nice job on your 104. Seat has that broke in com'fey look. I wouldn't go changing the rear tires unless they really look shot. Based on the tread style I see they are already a newer version. Better get a decal for that Creeper - don't want people callin' it your Granny Gear or similar.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they are real sweet all fixed up again)

wshytle · Apr 10, 2012

Thanks Don, Paul, and Harry-

I went with the 75/25 ratio. I did think about the visualizing of the level from the point of the outflow or full plug on the other style. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed since things haven't been going all that well with the cubs...too many irons in the fire with unneeded breakdowns.

Here's what I had planned automatically for me to do today.

I found a stover nut on the barn floor where I park the 1650 so I went huntin'. The front coupler was holding on to the "rag" with one bolt and the driveshaft was a tad loose. While getting this fixed I noticed some mouse house coming out from around the spark plug. I ended up removing the tank and the fire wall to access the top tin on the engine which came off fairly easily. I didn't want to pull the darn thing so I picked and blew for a while and think I got most if not all of the little critters efforts. Do you see the two little bolts on the head? I have no idea where they came from. This was the first time I've gone even this far into this engine.

Check all of your cubs guys; 'tis the season. All it takes is an air hose to see if your engines are haunted. I did some plowing with this tractor but it ran great the whole time and it wasn't much. The 129 did most of the plowing before the trunion let loose.

Thanks again for the gearbox lube info.

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