Archive through April 11, 2012

[glippert]

Hydro Harry - I missed some of the posts over the past few days, but I saw your request this morning for taillight wiring pics on a QL. I wasn't sure if you were serious or not, so I did just as you requested and went out to the garage, laid on the floor, and took a few pics. I don't know if this is correct or not - this tractor had a lot of P.O. issues when I got it, but the wire follows inside the right side frame, above the lift bar. I hope the pics are useful.

UNDER EDIT: I looked back and saw that Mark G was asking about the taillight wiring route. My wires just go through the little triangle opening at the corner where the vertical and horizontal parts meet. Like I said, I don't know if that's correct or not, but mine don't show any signs of wear from going through that opening without a grommet. Also, the pics don't show it, but the left side light wire just follows along the underside of the rear skirt and through the same type opening on the left side. The split from one wire to two is somewhat visible in the 2nd pic.

 

[glippert]

Calvin L - I second Wayne's diagnosis. I've had that problem with both my 1450's and my 1250. Check behind the dash to ensure the plug has good contact to the PTO switch.

As far as the tractor surging forward when you hit the starter, maybe your's is a hybrid hydro/gear drive and it's stuck in gear drive mode.

 

[hydroharry]

Greg L - thanks for posting the photos of the wiring on your QL unit. They are perfect and you can see most of the details I was pointing out. The wires look pretty correct to me, maybe should have one more Z clip along the frame to help hold the wire against the frame and off your cast iron lift lever. What I don't see is how/where the wire splits and goes to the tail light on the other side. It must be really up against the back underside of the fenders cross piece. Thanks again and I think Mark Gerecke will be very happy.

Mark G - have a look at Greg L's pics just below this message. You'll see a Z clip I mentioned and it should give you a good idea of where the wire connetor slips to the fender support bracket and goes into the wheel well area to connect to the tail light. Make sure you route the crossing wire up against the underside of the fenders (it's the area where the IH decal is on the outside of the fenders). Let us know how you make out and put your hands in the air for a big thank you to Greg.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and they love seeing the light)

 

[glippert]

Harry - You're right about needing another clip.

Here's another pic, showing how the wire splits: the plug connector is also a splitter, with one wire going to each side.

 

[rmcshane]

Cub buying continued today with a decent 106 with rear PTO...the handle is missing for the PTO and theres no grill, but runs good with a 48 inch deck...

 

[mgerecke]

Greg and Harry.
Thank you for the pictures on the wiring. That should clean up the look of my mess as I have it!! I am raising my hands now

 

[hydroharry]

Greg L - thanks for the additional pic. I know you had to be a real contortionist to get that one (on your back and making sure you don't bang your head against the draw bar - or did you do that?) Thanks again for your help. It clears things up really nice so others don't think I'm (to) nuts.

Mark G - hope you got those little Z clips. I don't know of anything else that'd work.

Ryan Mc - com'on now, another Gear Drive! That ain't gonna do nothing for the FEVER!!!!

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and Ryan got his wires crossed this time)

 

[dschwandt]

I'm going to pick up a 1250 and what's left of a 1650 this AM. (BTW I'll Will be looking for a set of side panels foe one of 'em)

I'll make note of how these are wired and will be able to make up new harneses w/OEM sytle connectors if anyone is interested.

Dave Schwandt

 

[glippert]

Harry - Yeah, I did have to lay on my back, but couldn't hit my head on the drawbar because the sleeve hitch adapter was in the way! I pulled the top lift pin but but left the two bottom pins so the adapter just hinged down and rested on the floor. But that's the beauty of digital cameras - I just reached out a little for various angles and snapped away. I took about 20 shots to get the ones I posted. Anyway, I was glad to be able to contribute - I read the forum nearly every day, but seldom have the answers (or someone else is quicker on the draw). Which reminds me to once again say "Thank You" to folks like you and all the others who share their knowledge with the rest of us. And, of course, to Charlie and all the sponsors and moderators who keep this invaluable resource going!

(Without this site I wouldn't have this hobby, and I'm too old to go back to drinkin' & running 'round!)

{Hey, that sounds like a country song!}

 

[cmwkrill]

Any tips for converting an Original to chain-drive? (specifically, though, I'm wondering: do the sprockets have to be a certain size?)

I get to work on the 126 today, as soon as i get back from the doctor.. change the oil, put the new coil, plug, and points on, and hopefully she'll start up..

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLES - If by converting an Original to Chain Drive you mean swapping in a roller chain & sprockets in place of the V-belt running from the engine down to the clutch & driveshaft.... Yes, you could. The sprockets do have to be a certain size determined by the chain size and horse power you're going to be transmitting. A quick Internet search on "Roller Chain Sizing" should get you a lot of info. Far as any Tips, I don;t know of anyone who's done the swap so no tips.

But roller chains need oil to lube them, and the lower sprocket would be part of your clutch, which is real alergic to oil, so I wouldn't recommend making the change. I know there's been a couple Originals converted to 10 HP, and Tom Hoffman put a big V-twin B&S, think it was 18 HP in an Original and never had any belt issues, although I know Tom speeded his "Mien Kub" up a bit.

Another thing with roller chains running at high speeds like a direct drive to a small engine running 3600 RPM, they're heavy, they tend to fling out due to inertial between the sprockets, so I'd include some sort of tensioner and by ALL MEANS, a guard to contain the chain if it breaks, and to keep people away from the fast moving chain.

 

[vthomley]

Dave Schwandt - it was nice to meet you at Rob's Plow day in Iowa. Yellow Fever is setting in I see, first you buy a nice 1000, now 2 more!!!

After working on these wide frames - your new 1000, the 1250, 1650, you'll need to get a narrow frame like a 127 or 122! You'll appreciate the removable tunnel cover and other little things...

Did you get the rear lift, spring assist and Brinly hitch installed onto your 1000?

 

[cmwkrill]

Dennis-
Thanks.. I don't think I'll pursue the matter much further, then. just a thought from my mind as to maybe getting a little more reliable setup, but that doesn't sound more reliable at all. LESS reliable, actually.

I need to have someone with me to keep me out of the "hardware and automotive" sections at Meijer, there goes another $30..

 

[pfitzwater]

Hey guys, been tearing down my 128 to inspect the clutch/driveshaft. seems that the bearing that is behind the plate has lodged it self onto the main spring. Would the bearing or shaft fail first usualy? Just trying to get an idea since I have yet to get the roll pin out of the rear part of the shaft to pull the motor out. And from what I "think" I understand that bearing is held onto the shaft by the shaft being a larger diamiter for that bearing in that spot?

Are these pins something I can get at a hardware store and replace? or should I try and press/pound them out? I thought about drilling them out and just replaceing them. I noticed some one has made a tool to remove it but I dont know any more info on them.

 

[eplavney]

Hey guys - I'm a new member, although I've been using the site for a while. A lot of great info! I'm working on my 125, but I've hit a snag. The prior owner let the PTO basket come lose and it damaged the crank in two places. One the keyway opened up and the crank diameter actually worn down under the PTO basket. Of course I didn't notice the second until after I had the crank worked on and bought a used PTO basket. So, now I'm looking for another used crankshaft. I read a lot a sites saying 12-16 HP crankshafts can be used. Long post for the question - how important is the length of the PTO side of the shaft? My current one is 3 inches. Would using one with 3.5 inches be a problem? Any other ideas?

 

[digger]

Eric P.
The PTO sets on the very end of the crank. If you have a crank that's longer than stock, your PTO pulley will not line up with the things down below.

 

[eplavney]

Thanks Digger - that is what I was afraid of. Couldn't really tell since it is all apart. I guess I'll keep watching ebay for the right size.

 

[hydroharry]

Patrick F - not sure I fully understand your posting but if the thro out bearing is lodged on the spring it's most likely failed. Also, the drive shaft will wallow where the spring and the thro out bearing ride on it. As for which is more common, probably the bearing failure 1st, but I suspect your drive shaft is wallowed which allowed the bearing to get lodged out of place and fail. Most likely you're gonna need both. You'll have to get a good look at all the parts once you have it out. The roll pins are special, some people refer to them as Spirol pins, but I believe that is a trade name for pins that are actually different from those used by IH. The IH pins appear to be double roll spring pins. My preference is to use the original style and as far as I know they are still available from CCC. Some of the sponsors have them to. I would stay away from the hardware store versions since those are typically single roll and won't last.

Eric P - replacing the crank for your problem is a pretty major fix. If you do that you have to make sure the crank journel meets specs, and your rod is still within specs. Before I'd go to that extend (which is similar to an engine overhaul) I'd look for a method to fix your current crankshaft. I believe you can get a new keyway cut into it. As for being worn where the basket fits - there must be some method to re-center the basket and then possibly add another set screw in your newer basket to hold it firmly in place, or even possibly get it centered and welded on. It may sound crazy but I hate to see you overhaul the engine due to an exterior issue with the crank.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but some parts do wear out)

 

[pfitzwater]

OK. I guess I'm just trying to figure out the pin, I was thinking about drilling it out. I don't want to mess up the hole and I don't know how about being able to hammer it out. I saw where someone made a tool to drive it out with a threaded pin. Or bought one. I would like to get it apart as soon as possible

 

[digger]

Patrick F.
A hammer and a pin punch will work just fine.
Sometimes spraying it with PB Blaster or Kroil helps loosen things up before hand.