Archive through April 07, 2011

[thill]

Jason,

I've taken to using a shear pin (small bolt & nylon lock nut combo often for snowblower augers) instead of the spec'd part. It will protect your motor and hydro by breaking if necessary and the ones I get from the bins in box stores like HD, Lowes, Sears, TSC and the like have a smooth shoulder just long enough that or clears the Hub Assembly ( #2 on Mr. Atay's handy parts explosion).

 

[mgonitzke]

Tom/Jason-

That is a hardened steel dowel pin; not something you want to replace with a shear pin unless you want to be replacing it all of the time. What is it going to 'protect'? No CC has a shear pin in the driveline.

 

[pbell]

Tom Hill,
It is called a Gard-N-Cart, because when it is upright it is a grill guard, and is a cart when in the lowered position, and was originally made by Brinly Hardy. It is no longer available from them, but has been reproduced by several people, one of which is/was Mark Jackson, www.highridgetractorparts.com . The original was only available for narrow frame Cub Cadets, but was also available for other brands of tractors.

 

[tmarkle]

Tom H X2,
It sounds like what you guys are thinking of is the Brinly Gard-N-Cart. It is a grill guard that folds out to carry things on. I have only ever seen them to fit an Original and NFs. It wouldn't be too hard to build something similar to fit a WF. It could be made quick-tach by starting with an old mower mule drive. I have a reproduction one on my 100 but I have never actually used it to carry anything.

 

[thill]

Well my hardened steel pin broke early on and I drove a mild steel pin in too many times to count. The shear pin does fail but they've been lasting about two years each. I cut 3+ acres all grass season and plow NJ snow all winter so there are some hours backing the lifetime.

Guess there's not much to protect but I never figured a driveline would contain a hardened pin.

 

[thill]

Todd & Paul,

Thanks fo4 clarifying. I'be considered sacrificing a mule drive or a blade frame. Guess the blade frame might be better as it would have lift capability.

 

[wshytle]

Art-

I figured you would have posted your Gard-N-Cart by now. You still have it don't you? I actually have some pics of it but it would take an hour to find them.

 

[dfrisk]

TOM HILL - re: Hy-Gard... Yes, it's another company's version of hydraulic/transmission fluid. BUT it's made to repel water or condensation, NOT absorb it like Hy-Tran. Totally different chemistry. It may work to mix Hy-Gard and Hy-Tran but I don't recommend it.

I will admit to using Hy-Gard in my 72's gear drive trans for quite a while, but not mixed with Hy-Tran.

 

[bjohnson]

Here's a picture of me and my girl getting the garden ready. Oh, and my daughter too.

 

[aschumacher]

Josh DeS., Your regulator is not working properly. 14-1/2 volts seems to be the max that should be applied to a battery, no matter what the condition of the battery. You sure the ground connections are perfect? The ground return is an important part of the sensing circuit of the regulator. Some regs are supposed to be adjustable, but thats a new unit...
Maybe more by other members.