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Archive through April 07, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Don, concentrate on the "top" of the blade then just one pass across the bottom of the blade on the wheel to clean it up. It shouldn't look like a V when your done it should be a wedge. Take out any nicks and try not to let it get hot enough to turn blue. To sharp dulls fast and a blunt edge won't cut, it beats the grass. So trial and error till you get the results you want that will hold an edge for a while.
Guys these are a mess,the owner (not mine)filed them from the bottom and now its hard to get an edge on them.I have been hand filing them and will balance them when i`am finished.I was wondering how you guys did yours ? I think I will tell him to buy another 3 new blades for the deck. and tell him to not try to sharpen them for the bottom edge. Thanks
I use a bench grinder and/or a 4" angle grinder on mine. I take it slow so as not to over heat them or to remove too much, then I check for balance. So far it's worked well for me. I should mention that my Cubs have the "hard surface" blades so using a file is not an option.
Don,
I have a 6 page power point presentation on Rotary Blade Grinding that I could email ya, hmmm I could also make it a pdf file. Please let me know.
Smooth and steady with your hands, do not let the blade heat up, have a 5 gal pail of water to cool the blade after every couple passes.
I do believe KENtucky means DO NOT ROUND OVER THE OUTSIDE corner.
Always blend grind a radius on the inner part of the blade.
If the blade is bent, twisted, cracked it needs to be replaced. Do not attempt to straighten or repair a blade.
I have a 6 page power point presentation on Rotary Blade Grinding that I could email ya, hmmm I could also make it a pdf file. Please let me know.
Smooth and steady with your hands, do not let the blade heat up, have a 5 gal pail of water to cool the blade after every couple passes.
I do believe KENtucky means DO NOT ROUND OVER THE OUTSIDE corner.
Always blend grind a radius on the inner part of the blade.
If the blade is bent, twisted, cracked it needs to be replaced. Do not attempt to straighten or repair a blade.
I believe KENtucky was referring to these corners.
lkortkamp
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- Apr 7, 2009
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- Larry
Ok, got a quick question.
I broke one of the zerk fittings off for one of the front spindles on my 149. Looks like they just press in? The opposite side has no wrench flats(like it was screwed in).
Looking to just drill/tap and install new zerk(larger size if need be). What's the factory design?
Thanks
I broke one of the zerk fittings off for one of the front spindles on my 149. Looks like they just press in? The opposite side has no wrench flats(like it was screwed in).
Looking to just drill/tap and install new zerk(larger size if need be). What's the factory design?
Thanks
Larry K.
Vincent Thomley
That would be great if you could share that with me, please sent it to my shop email([email protected]).I have one blade somewhat sharp but you would never cut a finger with it lol.my pocket knife will shave the hair on my arm and just how sharp do you guys use for the mower blades I know a hand side I have here is real sharp and mabe a good stoneing will help these. Thanks
That would be great if you could share that with me, please sent it to my shop email([email protected]).I have one blade somewhat sharp but you would never cut a finger with it lol.my pocket knife will shave the hair on my arm and just how sharp do you guys use for the mower blades I know a hand side I have here is real sharp and mabe a good stoneing will help these. Thanks
DON - I sharpen my blades same way as Kraig, with the 4-1/2" angle grinder. I think I end up removing less material from the blade which means it should last longer.
I gave up on the hard coated blades, they cost so much more and I sometimes hit some pieces of crushed rock along the road and they nick/chip pretty easy.
Most of your cutting will be done with the outer most half inch of the blade depending on your mowing speed so most of the wear will be there. Like Ken says, don't round off the corner, that's what causes the strips to not be mowed when turning corners.
I wire brush all the accumulated grass & rust off the blades, sharpen, and like Ken says, don't get the edge "Blue", all from the beveled top edge, and if there's any burr, make a light pass down the bottom. And after the blade is sharp I balance over a small round screwdriver shaft, and the center hole must be split by the shaft. If there's a small nick I just leave it, if it's big I may try to get a bit of an edge to it, depends on where it's at on the blade. If it's toward the end I'll try to sharpen it but if it's in an inch or so I leave it.
I probably get blades too sharp, and too shallow of an angle, they won't cut skin unless you really try, but will cut soft wood. I normally sharpen the blades on my 38" deck every 3-4 mowings of my 2+ acre lawn. I think the sharper blades pull easier, and don't hurt the grass as much.
LARRY - re: broken zerk, yes they press in, you need to remove the spindle from your frt axle, using a small punch, knock the broken end into the spindle bore, replace the spindle, and with light taps from a small hammer tap in the new zerk Charlie posted pic's of. There's a "Special tool" for that job actually, but you can get by without it if your careful.
I gave up on the hard coated blades, they cost so much more and I sometimes hit some pieces of crushed rock along the road and they nick/chip pretty easy.
Most of your cutting will be done with the outer most half inch of the blade depending on your mowing speed so most of the wear will be there. Like Ken says, don't round off the corner, that's what causes the strips to not be mowed when turning corners.
I wire brush all the accumulated grass & rust off the blades, sharpen, and like Ken says, don't get the edge "Blue", all from the beveled top edge, and if there's any burr, make a light pass down the bottom. And after the blade is sharp I balance over a small round screwdriver shaft, and the center hole must be split by the shaft. If there's a small nick I just leave it, if it's big I may try to get a bit of an edge to it, depends on where it's at on the blade. If it's toward the end I'll try to sharpen it but if it's in an inch or so I leave it.
I probably get blades too sharp, and too shallow of an angle, they won't cut skin unless you really try, but will cut soft wood. I normally sharpen the blades on my 38" deck every 3-4 mowings of my 2+ acre lawn. I think the sharper blades pull easier, and don't hurt the grass as much.
LARRY - re: broken zerk, yes they press in, you need to remove the spindle from your frt axle, using a small punch, knock the broken end into the spindle bore, replace the spindle, and with light taps from a small hammer tap in the new zerk Charlie posted pic's of. There's a "Special tool" for that job actually, but you can get by without it if your careful.
Got my rear bushings and seals ordered today.
Scott Tanner,
That light switch was used on the numbered Lo-Boys (154, 185, 174) and the earlier Cub's and Cub Lo-Boys. I believe you will find the terminals with the coiled wire across them are for low/dim head lights. The Cub's used two positions for the head light, bright and dim. They did not have instrument lights.
That light switch was used on the numbered Lo-Boys (154, 185, 174) and the earlier Cub's and Cub Lo-Boys. I believe you will find the terminals with the coiled wire across them are for low/dim head lights. The Cub's used two positions for the head light, bright and dim. They did not have instrument lights.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Blade sharpening...
4" belt sander with 60 or 80 grit paper. It doesn't heat up nearly as fast as a grinder and is easier to maintain angle/consistant removal across the whole blade face. Not sharp enough to be considered a weapon, but not blunt either...I'm not afraid to touch the edges of my blades, but I don't shove my hand into them willy-nilly either!!!!
Otherwise, level deck, clean deck, all baffles in place, good spindles and belts = good mowing machine!!!!
I've had to mow twice already in Central IL. My lawn is 30 years old and very well established and it greens up 2 weeks before the sodded lawns across the street. Good Friday and Tuesday evening...and from the looks of it Sunday evening after Plow Day too!!!! (On the Cub Cadet 365L ZTR....)
4" belt sander with 60 or 80 grit paper. It doesn't heat up nearly as fast as a grinder and is easier to maintain angle/consistant removal across the whole blade face. Not sharp enough to be considered a weapon, but not blunt either...I'm not afraid to touch the edges of my blades, but I don't shove my hand into them willy-nilly either!!!!
Otherwise, level deck, clean deck, all baffles in place, good spindles and belts = good mowing machine!!!!
I've had to mow twice already in Central IL. My lawn is 30 years old and very well established and it greens up 2 weeks before the sodded lawns across the street. Good Friday and Tuesday evening...and from the looks of it Sunday evening after Plow Day too!!!! (On the Cub Cadet 365L ZTR....)
Well..its time to ask the experts. I have a charging problem with my newly acquired 128. To start with it has a good charged battery. I have cleaned the grounds and checked all connections on the voltage regulator, solenoid, ignition switch, amp gauge and on the starter/generator. I did perform the test explained in Charlie's FAQs. Disconnected the field wire from the SG, took the belt loose on the SG pulley, turned ignition to start position then briefly grounded the field circuit to the frame. Got a couple of sparks and the SG lost some rpms. I checked the continuity of the field connection (wire) seems just fine. I swapped out the VR with another with same results. Changed the amp guage with no improvement. (just like going to the doctor) The amp guage moves very slightly to the - when starting then stays in the middle. I believe the only two things left are the ignition switch and solenoid. Could one of these be the culprit? I am missing something. Your kind suggestions are much anticipated.
T-Mo
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- Jan 22, 2009
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- displayname
- Terry Reed
I asked this the other day, but it must have gotten lost in the shuffle. So, here's a repeat.
The other day I was pushing dirt with my 123 when just before I got done, there was a noise coming from the hydraulic lift pump. It was full of fluid, but it looks like the pulley is wobbly. I was going to sell it here a couple of months ago, I'm glad I didn't. I wouldn't want that to happen to someone else.
Now I wonder if there is a bushing or bearing inside the pump that the shaft turns on for the pulley. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Oh, and btw, I found FAQ #48 on the obtaining gears, but I'm not sure if that's the problem or not, as I haven't torn into it yet.
The other day I was pushing dirt with my 123 when just before I got done, there was a noise coming from the hydraulic lift pump. It was full of fluid, but it looks like the pulley is wobbly. I was going to sell it here a couple of months ago, I'm glad I didn't. I wouldn't want that to happen to someone else.
Now I wonder if there is a bushing or bearing inside the pump that the shaft turns on for the pulley. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Oh, and btw, I found FAQ #48 on the obtaining gears, but I'm not sure if that's the problem or not, as I haven't torn into it yet.
Terry R.
There is a bronze bushing for the small gear on the inside, but it's NLA from Cub Cadet.
BUT, not to worry. At least one or more of our sponsors have the gears on hand.
There is a bronze bushing for the small gear on the inside, but it's NLA from Cub Cadet.
BUT, not to worry. At least one or more of our sponsors have the gears on hand.
mgwin
Well-known member
Rick,
Super nice 100!
Super nice 100!
tdaugherty
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- Aug 12, 2009
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- Tim Daugherty
Hey Fellas,
I finally figured out whats causin the problem with my 124. The battery is not charging, so as the tractor runs, the coil basically drains the battery, and the battery condenser cant function, so the igniton quits. However, i started it this morning and kept jumper leads on it, and tested the motor/generator with a multimeter set on 20v DC. It was reading between 25-35 volts, so obviously the regulator is shot, because its not reducing the voltage, or placing charge into the battery, so the tractor quits when you take the jumper leads off. Where can i find the original style regulator for a 124? Thanks!
I finally figured out whats causin the problem with my 124. The battery is not charging, so as the tractor runs, the coil basically drains the battery, and the battery condenser cant function, so the igniton quits. However, i started it this morning and kept jumper leads on it, and tested the motor/generator with a multimeter set on 20v DC. It was reading between 25-35 volts, so obviously the regulator is shot, because its not reducing the voltage, or placing charge into the battery, so the tractor quits when you take the jumper leads off. Where can i find the original style regulator for a 124? Thanks!
