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Archive through April 07, 2004
- Thread starter shunt
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farmall gray
Guest
Steve B,
When you put the front gauge wheel brackets on did you use the measurement in the kit? It looks like you set them out wider (at least the left one). I just put a set on my 44" deck tonight
and I used the spec from the instructions. That is a fun job. It took a lot of figuring and measuring to get them straight. There isn't much
to reference the parelellism off of.
When you put the front gauge wheel brackets on did you use the measurement in the kit? It looks like you set them out wider (at least the left one). I just put a set on my 44" deck tonight
and I used the spec from the instructions. That is a fun job. It took a lot of figuring and measuring to get them straight. There isn't much
to reference the parelellism off of.
Steve-
I'm trying to find someone to measure the seat pressure and force at full lift for the springs, just for the heck of it I've got a set of springs from a non-rotator single, rotator single, and a non-rotator twin, the goal will be to find the lightest spring that prevents float. The heads, there's a third, are two 10hp heads, one with the dump area and one without, AKA "LP head". When it comes dyno time I'd like to be able to try all three if there's time and $$'s. The box of plugs (I've got at least 3 packs of Autolite 216's around) are in quantity so that I can pick a plug out that indexes well without indexing shims.
I'm trying to find someone to measure the seat pressure and force at full lift for the springs, just for the heck of it I've got a set of springs from a non-rotator single, rotator single, and a non-rotator twin, the goal will be to find the lightest spring that prevents float. The heads, there's a third, are two 10hp heads, one with the dump area and one without, AKA "LP head". When it comes dyno time I'd like to be able to try all three if there's time and $$'s. The box of plugs (I've got at least 3 packs of Autolite 216's around) are in quantity so that I can pick a plug out that indexes well without indexing shims.
What's amazing about that picture is that there's no starter, coil, breather cover, camshaft, governor, or tappets in the picture, still have to pick them up.
Stuff adds up fast. After this I'm going to be a big advocate of either go all-out or go stock, even going a "little warmed up" and buying many new parts really adds up quick.
Stuff adds up fast. After this I'm going to be a big advocate of either go all-out or go stock, even going a "little warmed up" and buying many new parts really adds up quick.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Thanks for the comments on the deck guys...once I get the subframe fixed up I'll let you know how it mows!!!
Joe A.
No, that isn't a new 44" deck skin....that deck is actually 29 years old. It had some cracks (all the usual places) and other minor repairs, but on the whole it was a very clean deck. The bearings and tensioner are out of a 38" stamped end and it has some updates and extras, but it's a '75 Quite Line vintage deck skin....came on a very early 1650 I bought.
Joe A.
No, that isn't a new 44" deck skin....that deck is actually 29 years old. It had some cracks (all the usual places) and other minor repairs, but on the whole it was a very clean deck. The bearings and tensioner are out of a 38" stamped end and it has some updates and extras, but it's a '75 Quite Line vintage deck skin....came on a very early 1650 I bought.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Todd,
No, my kit was opened and the instructions were AWOL. I measured my other deck (I installed those according to the kit dim's) and started there. The left wheel is a bit wide, but that's what it took to keep all 4 wheels and all 3 blades in parallel planes. Sliding that wheel out a little was what it took, so that's what happened. It still rides within the edge of the deck, so it's no big deal (clears the front tire on the install a little better too).
Amen on the parallel/straight/true/square/correct height/etc. install of the front wheels......carefull tacks and measurements are what it takes to get it gnat's a$$ right......PITA!!!!!
No, my kit was opened and the instructions were AWOL. I measured my other deck (I installed those according to the kit dim's) and started there. The left wheel is a bit wide, but that's what it took to keep all 4 wheels and all 3 blades in parallel planes. Sliding that wheel out a little was what it took, so that's what happened. It still rides within the edge of the deck, so it's no big deal (clears the front tire on the install a little better too).
Amen on the parallel/straight/true/square/correct height/etc. install of the front wheels......carefull tacks and measurements are what it takes to get it gnat's a$$ right......PITA!!!!!
Hey Guys,
Did Ohio Steel Fabricators make the #2 trailer/cart for IH? I have an old red colored one from when I was a kid, and it looks identical to the #2 IH cart that I've seen pictures of. If it is --- was it ever any other color than IH white?
Thanks as always.
Did Ohio Steel Fabricators make the #2 trailer/cart for IH? I have an old red colored one from when I was a kid, and it looks identical to the #2 IH cart that I've seen pictures of. If it is --- was it ever any other color than IH white?
Thanks as always.
R
rogerbrown
Guest
On a 149 hydro, I have a leak on the left axle where it joins the differential. I tried tightning the bolts and they were all very tight. If I take this apart to fix the leak, are there any pointers on doing this? Like dont disturb anything in the differential housing???
R
rogerbrown
Guest
Another question. On an 1811, the electric PTO squeeks very loud when turned off. If I turn it on all is quiet. How do I service this to stop the squeek?
Hey Everybody! Got a little more fabbin' on the home-brew'd sleeve-hitch. Here's how it went:
I didn't have any 2.5" x 3/8" strap iron, and couldn't find any at my local haunts, so I looked in my scrap pile and found a piece of 2" x 1/2" angle iron. Good'nuff fer me. I made the entire U-section out of this stuff, and it's pretty stout... methinks good enough for hitchin' a plow.
I didn't have any 1" OD x 5/8" id tubing to make the hitch-pin sleeve. I DID have a 1.25" x 14" hunk of stainless-steel propeller shaft, so I whacked off 3.5" of it, chucked it in the lathe, and proceeded to bore through it, using the tailstock to hold the bit. All went fine, and it was boring nicely, 'till the bit apparently hit a hardened spot, the bit twisted, bent, and the clamp holding the underside of the tailstock broke (@#$%!!!).
Well, it took about an hour to finish after that... ended up heating the chunk cherry-red, then hozing it down to break the hardening... then finished the drillin' with the drill press.
So now I'm ready to mount the sleeve to the U-section, and I carefully carved out a hole with which to feed it though the angle-iron, and ground the area out so the sleeve will slide in nicely, and I even squared it up, centered it, and tacked it in place with the mini-mig.
Question: The sleeve... from SOME other hitches, it appears that the 3.5" piece of sleeve is vertically centered on the 2.5" strap-iron, and on others, it appears that the BOTTOM edge of the sleeve is flush with the BOTTOM edge of the U-bracket.
Where should I mount mine... center it, or flush on the bottom, and stickin' out the top?
Once I get an answer there, I'll go glue it in place, and move on to the next step...
I didn't have any 2.5" x 3/8" strap iron, and couldn't find any at my local haunts, so I looked in my scrap pile and found a piece of 2" x 1/2" angle iron. Good'nuff fer me. I made the entire U-section out of this stuff, and it's pretty stout... methinks good enough for hitchin' a plow.
I didn't have any 1" OD x 5/8" id tubing to make the hitch-pin sleeve. I DID have a 1.25" x 14" hunk of stainless-steel propeller shaft, so I whacked off 3.5" of it, chucked it in the lathe, and proceeded to bore through it, using the tailstock to hold the bit. All went fine, and it was boring nicely, 'till the bit apparently hit a hardened spot, the bit twisted, bent, and the clamp holding the underside of the tailstock broke (@#$%!!!).
Well, it took about an hour to finish after that... ended up heating the chunk cherry-red, then hozing it down to break the hardening... then finished the drillin' with the drill press.
So now I'm ready to mount the sleeve to the U-section, and I carefully carved out a hole with which to feed it though the angle-iron, and ground the area out so the sleeve will slide in nicely, and I even squared it up, centered it, and tacked it in place with the mini-mig.
Question: The sleeve... from SOME other hitches, it appears that the 3.5" piece of sleeve is vertically centered on the 2.5" strap-iron, and on others, it appears that the BOTTOM edge of the sleeve is flush with the BOTTOM edge of the U-bracket.
Where should I mount mine... center it, or flush on the bottom, and stickin' out the top?
Once I get an answer there, I'll go glue it in place, and move on to the next step...
Hey Wyatt... from what I've found, 'a little warmed up' usually costs the same as 'going great gonzo'.
At least, that's what I found when I hot-rodded the 250ci Chevy inline six I put in my 17' boat... and I really didn't 'warm' it up too much... it was 165hp, now it's only about 265...
At least, that's what I found when I hot-rodded the 250ci Chevy inline six I put in my 17' boat... and I really didn't 'warm' it up too much... it was 165hp, now it's only about 265...
M
mcrugnola
Guest
Hello,
my name is michel and i have a tractor but the electrical circut is broken .
do you have electrical drawing for cub cadet model 1772 ?
best reggards
my name is michel and i have a tractor but the electrical circut is broken .
do you have electrical drawing for cub cadet model 1772 ?
best reggards
Dave Kirk:
I'm sitting here thinking that you should start a church (of sorts), perhaps calling it the First House of Gearhead Worship. You can be the Preacher and take us, as a group, on as your 'mission'. You could preach about engine-related things and probably make a bunch of money. That'd be a collection plate I wouldn't pass up.
Keep it coming!
)
Keith
I'm sitting here thinking that you should start a church (of sorts), perhaps calling it the First House of Gearhead Worship. You can be the Preacher and take us, as a group, on as your 'mission'. You could preach about engine-related things and probably make a bunch of money. That'd be a collection plate I wouldn't pass up.
Keep it coming!
) Keith
Dave Kamp:
I'm not sure that the positioning of the sleeve is that critical. Be sure that you leave enough of the sleeve above the top edge of your angle U-bracket to hold the L-shaped device that the jacking bolts press against. I can't remember it's proper name since it's so damn early, but I believe the Bill DeT posted a pic of one the other day for you.
Just be sure that the sleeve fits inside the plow hitch and you should be golden. Methinks that since you're seeing inconsistencies in the 'store-bought' versions, there's some poetic license here with respect to attachment.
My $.02.
Keith
I'm not sure that the positioning of the sleeve is that critical. Be sure that you leave enough of the sleeve above the top edge of your angle U-bracket to hold the L-shaped device that the jacking bolts press against. I can't remember it's proper name since it's so damn early, but I believe the Bill DeT posted a pic of one the other day for you.
Just be sure that the sleeve fits inside the plow hitch and you should be golden. Methinks that since you're seeing inconsistencies in the 'store-bought' versions, there's some poetic license here with respect to attachment.
My $.02.
Keith
Roger B:
It sounds like the gasket is bad between the LH axle housing and the dif case. You'll have to do some minor disassembly in the differential to replace this gasket. You'll need to remove the back cover/drain the Hytran to get at it. Fortunately, or unfortunately, both of these events occur simultaneously..... It can be a mess.
Once you're looking at the dif, you'll need to remove a small e-clip that retains the axle. Pull the axle out and then remove the bolts that are holding on the axle housing. Be prepared for a 2nd out pouring of Hytran here, as well.
Clean up the dif housing & axle housing, replace the gasket and reverse the above steps. While it's apart, I'd change the axle seal, too.
On a side note, if your Cub is like every one I've ever taken apart, you'll most likely find a clear tapioca-like film living inside the case. You should clean as much of that stuff out of there as you can. I may have this wrong, but I believe that it is moisture that the Hytran has trapped along the way. Guys in the know, please chime in here.
Hope this helps,
Keith
It sounds like the gasket is bad between the LH axle housing and the dif case. You'll have to do some minor disassembly in the differential to replace this gasket. You'll need to remove the back cover/drain the Hytran to get at it. Fortunately, or unfortunately, both of these events occur simultaneously..... It can be a mess.
Once you're looking at the dif, you'll need to remove a small e-clip that retains the axle. Pull the axle out and then remove the bolts that are holding on the axle housing. Be prepared for a 2nd out pouring of Hytran here, as well.
Clean up the dif housing & axle housing, replace the gasket and reverse the above steps. While it's apart, I'd change the axle seal, too.
On a side note, if your Cub is like every one I've ever taken apart, you'll most likely find a clear tapioca-like film living inside the case. You should clean as much of that stuff out of there as you can. I may have this wrong, but I believe that it is moisture that the Hytran has trapped along the way. Guys in the know, please chime in here.
Hope this helps,
Keith
It may also be leaking past the bolt threads if the holes were tapped through to the inside as I've seen some castings done before. Some RTV on the bolts as re-install them will take care of that but don't over do it. Not enough is better than to much.
Keith - not everybody is a "gearhead", some of us are slush buckets ! I put mine in "D" for drunk and go !
Keith - not everybody is a "gearhead", some of us are slush buckets ! I put mine in "D" for drunk and go !
W
wdeturck
Guest
Dave K.: Went out and measured my sleeve hitch which is 2 1/4" x 3/8" bar stock. The 1" pipe is 3 3/8" long and has 1" sticking up the TOP for the stabilization plate. On a plow I think it would make a difference how the plow works if you mount it up side down as the point angle will change quite a bit. Would the plow tend to go deeper if you turn the hitch over? I did see one mounted that way and the person said he liked it that way. I will post this across the street also
I'm looking for some help with a 682. I would like to put rear hydraulics to run a tiller. Is this possible and if so, what do I need to accomplish this? Or is it more work than it's worth and I should go out and trade up for a tractor with rear hydraulics?
