• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through April 02, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Harry hydro

I have a IH 782 and 2 IH 582's.I've owned a CCC 782,682 and 582 there are a lot more differences in them than Scott n has listed.The 782's and 682 had/have series one motors in them.I also have a yellow and white 582 with the international logo on the dash,a clock style hour meter, and a cast iron rear painted black,but it is peeling and there is red paint showing.
 
107 clutch asy help - any sugestion on rebuilding my clutch on the 107 starting to act up i know the bearing is going and disks for sure

i push around some dirt with snow blade and roll my yard 1 a year with a 1000 pound roller

looking for some good photos of clutch assembly
 
Mike, You have a lot of "tire" there! Are you going to be home Saturday?
 
George C.
Looks like you have a mislabled cub, as a 107 is a hydro, no clutch,got some pictures for us, we like em '
 
Harry no I did not cover the carb as its coming off for a rebuild (and it was a different member trying to help me with the 169 hunt) which I appreacate

Well I got the head cleaned up,, I also used the head prep method on my oil pan as I don't want a leak like Don. I was really suprised at how warped the oil pan was.

237367.jpg


237368.jpg


And you have to love a girl cutting grass with a machine almost 4 times her age

237369.jpg
 
Tom I most likely will be in Harpers Ferry at the NE Iowa plowday with Mark.Are you going?
 
Got a little issue I've been fighting with my 149. Over the last couple years, restarting after warm has become harder and harder. Ran some Marvel mystery oil through the fuel, tweaked adjustment on carb. Runs perfect, idles perfect.

I've gotten to wonder about the points. I pulled the cover this evening after mowing and they look pretty used up. I left the cover off and ran it an they seem to be sparking badly. Granted they should to a point, but it was very sparatic.

Best place to get new points? What is the recommended gap? Mine is about .017 right now.

Thanks guys
 
Thanks all for the help with the SS axle. I am using the bolt that came with it, I assume from the original tractor but IDK. I may try grinding the head down. My first thought was I did something wrong, but sounds like others had experienced this so no big deal to have to grind down the bolt head.

I'll try and measure my turning radius tomorrow, although I hadnt measured it stock. Well I assume the 1000 would turn the same as any WF so no biggie there. I like the extra grease fitting, larger & greasable front wheels, and extra clearance - easier to slide the deck under straight without having to work it around the tires and get it just right. I also like the slightly higher stance that balances out the slightly taller rear tires I had on it (25" rears). I havent tried any implements yet to see if the extra height will mess up anything, but I have a pair of 129's also if something like the snowblower wont set right on the 1000.

Switching to the nut and bolt also allowed me to tighten it up and get rid of some of the slop in the steering... apparently over half the slop was the axle rocking back and forth.
 
Harry B. Thanks for your help on my 125s PTO. I used PB Blaster as suggested, all 6 screws came out easy. The major problem of the PTO not working was that the Bearing is shot and doesn't turn at all. Now the problem is getting the bearing and lock collar off. I've got the set screw and locking nut off but at loss at how the lock collar comes off. Is the collar and bearing one piece?
Tom
 

Latest posts

Back
Top