Archive through April 02, 2012

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Like WES says, I always put 1-1/2 quarts, 3 pints of oil in my K241, 20 years & 1480 hours later and no problems. My K241 had the normal flat bottom pan, as it will when it gets rebuilt to start it's 3rd life this summer. My dipstick on that K241 was probably more FuBar'd than Don's K301 was/is, had a rubber stopper forced up into the top cap that sealed the oil fill tube, no o-ring, but it sealed good so I ran it.

I'm pretty fussy about running air-cooled engines with less than the recommended amount of oil, a low oil level in a splash lubricated engine means less oil in the pan to be recirculated, starves the rod bearing of oil, the bearing over-heats, metal from the rod bonds to the crankshaft creating more heat, the rod siezes to the crankshaft and you end up with a broken rod and maybe a window in the block. That K241 was the engine I had in the #72 back around 2003 when I ran the lawn vac from about Noon Friday, maybe 1 PM until 2 AM the following morning NON-STOP. I forget how many tanks of gas I put thru the CC & lawn vac, I know I was on my 2nd 5 gal can when I got done. I took Saturday off, rewired my headlights, the old switch burned up, but Sunday I hooked the 72 to the areator and went over my 2-1/2 acres TWICE. I put 25 hours on the 72 that weekend.

And my old friends at HARVESTER PRESS in Westmont, IL wouldn't make a mistake on something as important as engine oil capacity in a CC Operator's manual.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - what work had you done on your Bigs and Scrapiron?

Wes H - thanks for posting that validation.

Dennis - I must have imagined (which can and does happen) the 10hp flat pan holding less oil. Probably something to do with a loose fitting dipstick inserted further. I wonder if Kraig has a pic of a flat and dished pan side by side??? Still hard for me to imagine they have the same capacity.

Kraig - OH Great One Keeper of the Photos - any chance you have a "side view" pic of a flat oil pan and dished oil pan (side by side in a single pic). I'm trying to visualize the capacity of both pans being the same. I had really thought the flat pan had less capacity but it's been verified on here they both have same capacity.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and as an ole timer on here mentioned, some oil is better than none)

 

[mhughes]

the guage reads a "0" charge and indicates a draw when pto or lighting is used. i am guessing i need to meter it as said. would it be best to check volts directly after voltage regulator? i will be cleaning the grounds though i did this over the winter so i do believe it is something else. the lighting is stock no mods to wiring on the tractor.

 

[tstewart]

Wyatt C. - from the looks of it the bolt sticks out further out the other end, and a lock nut is deeper that the head of the bolt isnt it? I cant see how your way wouldnt make the problem worse, I'll have to take another look at it when I get in.

Kraig - yeah maybe the grinder is a solution, that wouldnt leave much left though, I'll have to measure it when I get home but seemed to be about 1/4" away from the quick connects locking. Thats most of the depth of the head of that bolt I think. I'll check it when I get home.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I do not have a photo of the 10hp and 12hp oil pans side by side... yet. If I get time this evening I'll dig out the 10hp pan that I have and place it next to a complete K301 for comparison. That will be as close as I'll be able to get. Watch for the photos late this evening or more likely, tomorrow morning.

 

[stanner]

Tristan,
BTDT.... Here's what you need:

 

[hydroharry]

Tristan - I'll be interested to see Wyatt's response but it sounds to me like you may need to cut some of the threaded end off your bolt, and use a jam nut. (The jam nut should be about half the thickness of the standard 3/4" nut). I believe Wyatt mentions he drilled and tapped the nut, and used a small set screw (to lock the nut on I assume instead of using a lock washer). Let us know how you end up with this. I'd also like to know the turning radius of your 1000 after you've done this. I believe it was 6'6" with the standard axle. The FAQ mentions reducing it by 22" but I'm wondering if that is a typo and it's supposed to be 2'2".

(under edit) I see Scott T posted a pic of a bolt with a thin head, maybe it was ground down, and a standard nut that looks like it's drilled and tapped for a set screw. Might be a better approach than cutting threads off the bolt, and goes back to Kraig's original suggestion to use the angle grinder.

Kraig - as ole Jim Chabot use to say "side by each".

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some mods can get in the way)

 

[mmasheris]

Finally got the DMI duals for the supers done now to build a scale model 37 IH disc.
HIT THE ENTER KEY

HIT THE ENTER KEY

 

[drohacek]

Joe,
If it has a series I in all likelyhood it is an IH tractor. I had one of the red 782's right after they became CCC and it was virtually Identical to another that I had that was IH The only thing I could see that was a different was the insignia. The serial number was a tell tale but without it hard to tell. If the engine is original and a series I I vote it's an IH )

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Wyatt & I mounted his SS frt axle in my shop. Took about an hour. Wyatt had everything he needed to install it when he got here. Took about an hour to remove the stock axle & install the new axle.

22 inches or 2 ft 2 in which would be 26 inches, doesn't matter, his 169 turned a LOT tighter when we were done than before we started. Plus the axle casting is MUCH beefier, 1" spindles, the steering arm on the left spindle is splined and clamped, no roll pin to break or holes to wallow out. It's a good upgrade.

TRISTAN - The right kind of lock nut to use on the SS axle when replacing the pivot pin with a 3/4" bolt is a Stover Lock Nut, http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=4&oq=stover&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4ADBR_enUS317US317&q=stover+nut&gs_upl=0l0l0l8433lllllllllll0&aqi=g4s2&pbx=1

They're a deformed torque retension low hex nut that really grips the bolt they're threaded onto. Only down side is they should only be used once, but I've used them 2-3 times with Lock-Tight without problems. Drilling a low hex jam nut and using a cotter pin would work also.

And as Kraig says, you can grind the head of that 3/4" bolt down to get clearance for your mule drive, you only need about 1/8th inch of head to retain the bolt. And no flat or lock washer required. It'd be best to size your bolt so everything, the axle casting, and the bushings on the frame channel pivots on the unthreaded portion of the bolt. The threads won't wear away at the axle casting or bushings that way.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - did Wyatt go all the way from the Dakota Territory over to Madison to use your shop? I think I worded that 22" to 26" question incorrectly. I'd really like to know the final turning radius. I believe the manual shows 6'6" as the original spec. If this steering upgrade gets it to 3' that's a great difference, and I especially like the other improvements as well.

Joe L - I didn't see to much commenting on the 682 with the KT17 Series I, but I had understood that was really a throw away engine due to an oil starvation/engine failure issue when used on other than flat ground. I'm also thinking if you were intending to do any plowing it wouldn't be a good idea.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (IH versions)

 

[snicklas]

Joe,

There are 3 distinct differences that I have seen in the IH vs CCC 782's. Dad has an IH Built 782, and I have a CCC Built 782 built just after the selloff.(it is a parts tractor)

1. Dad's has molded into the dash above the steering wheel:

International
Cub Cadet

My 782 has:

Cub Cadet

The serial # Plate on Dad's 782 says:

International
Harvester
Chicago, Illinois
#################

My serial # plate says:

Cub Cadet
Cleveland, Ohio
##############

3. Dad's steering wheel center cap has IH molded into the cap, mine is a flat cap that has just a textured surface molded into the cap.

However, they BOTH have the IH in the front grill between the headlights, and IH on the rear fenders, and a cast iron rear axle.... They also have identical stripes on the hood that say International Cub Cadet 782 the 782 is at the front of the hood, and the IHCC is near the dash....

 

[hydroharry]

Scott N - do you and your Dad have Series I engines? If so, any performance issues? Also, Joe mentions he has the 582 already and is looking at a 682 with the KT17 Series I. Are those differences you mention the same for 682s?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die

 

[stanner]

HH, Tristan,
I should have elaborated...
That is a std grade 8 bolt, with the head cut off on a band saw, then hit with a grinder to make it pretty. The other end is a grade 8 nut. When assembling, I tightened it down to where I wanted it, then drilled the cotter pin hole..

 

[wcompton]

Gentlemen-
You're getting your nuts mixed up

Lock nut (as per Denny, Stover lock nut)

Jam nut

 

[bdix]

What is the length of drive shaft for a 129?

 

[hydroharry]

Wyatt - no mix up in my nuts. I knew a jam nut was about half the size of a lock nut (21/64th less in the nuts you posted). Hey, what I did want to know is the turning radius of your 169 after you did the Super Steer Upgrade over in Dennis' shop. The FAQ says it reduced it 22". If I recall the manual spec's it originally at 6'6". Is the 22" reduction correct???

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (some people like a nut, some people don't; Mounds got'm, Almond Joys don't)

 

[acocconi]

An update on my 107 Hydro problem: a week or so ago I asked for ideas on how to fix my beloved 107. It goes forward, but there's no reverse. Donald and Marlin offered the suggestion to run it at half throttle forward and throw it into reverse. Also suggested I try to get some PB Blaster (WD-40?) into the valve. Well, I finally had a few minutes on Sunday and gave both ideas a whirl. I bet I looked pretty funny doing the stop-and-go thing across the back yard! That approach didn't work. Took off the access cover and tried to get some WD-40 onto the valve, but it's a blind shot. That didn't work, either. Next up - hopefully, this weekend, take off the seat/fender and see if I can't get a more targeted shot at the valves. Any other ideas are appreciated! - Al C.

 

[dtanner]

Alan Cocconi

If you have the manual valved with the *** on top , rust and dirt can cause the valve (***)to stick down.soak it and use something to clean out around the ***, If its working to get some movement it will work.


And the rest of you guys are Nuts lol. I have done MR Tanner`s ideas and it has worked great for me on my 129 loader. and Kraig is correct , just grind the bolt head off so the quick attach works.
The 129 still steers and works great. Thinking back I wish I would have used a 1811 front axle and spindles on my 129 loader.That would have worked great for me doing my powering steering mod I have planned. That splined cap would be way stronger I think.

 

[jchamberlin]

Al--
Good luck with the hydro valves.

Harry--
I adjusted the valves on the Briggs & Stratton, replaced the springs, upgraded stator and the regulator (twice), set the governor, replaced the governor spring, rebuilt the carburetor, rebuilt the fuel pump, replaced fuel lines and filter, replaced the breather and several gaskets, installed vent tubes, as well as replaced the magneto.

What I did NOT replace was the rear oil seal.

What I did not check was the clearance for the rear main babbit bearing, or the connecting rod bearing clearance.

Finally, even though I replaced the gasket between the block and the pan, I didn't realize it was leaking. When I finally pulled the motor out of the tractor (it sat for a few months --I was so disgusted), I found one of the four 3" bolts had dropped out the bottom of the engine.

The engine failed for lack of oil.

It could be fairly stated that the guy who was trying to fix it spent his time on the wrong end. The BOTTOM end needs to be rock solid before messing with hopping up the cam, valves, and ignition.

Older, wiser, and poorer.