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Archive through April 01, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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"combination motor and generator wiring diagram"
1. The ammeter does not measure generator output,only current flow to and from the battery.
2. At start up,initial generator output results from residual magnetism in the generator. At idle DC generator output is very low. As engine(generator) speed increases output rises until it sufficient for the coil in the cutout relay to magnetically close the cutout points allowing generator output to flow into the system,including charging the battery. When you return to idle and generator output drops,the cutout points open to prevent reverse current flow into the generator.

3.The regulator(also called the limiter) relay controls maximun generator output,primarly the voltage. This is considered a "vibrating" points relay,in that at the upper limit of generator output,the relay points will continue to open and close(vibrate) to control maximum output.
4. All testing of the system must be done at operating temperature with a fully charged battery and the cover ON the regulator. Both relays are adjustable,but don't try it with out a manual and a good handheld meter. The dash mounted ammeter is not a precision instrument. A new regulator right out of the box is usually
set very close or right on.
 
Hmmm..
"The ammeter does not measure generator output,only current flow to and from the battery. "
is slightly misleading since the only current that ammeter sees is the charge current - the diagram is of the charging and starting circuit only and does not show the actual battery feed to the ignition and other accessories. The ammeter is wired in the charge line, so I'd say that it is measuring generator output. (the "L" connection is not the normal feed point for the tractor, it's for high current loads like the lights which present a higher than normal current draw, the regulator sees this load and compensates with higher output..)
 
Kendell, That is correct, to measure actual generator output you would need to put an ammeter is series with the generator "A" terminal before any other uses such as ignition,lights, or any others are taken. Those starter generators were typically rated at 15amps,if that is accurate you will not ever see 15 amps to the battery because some output is already taken for ignition and anything else that is "on". I have no idea if the 15 amps was an accurate rating,perhaps someone has tested one on a test stand. DC generators are very speed sensative as to output so you would have to test one at the maximum speed it would turn on the tractor. Generator field input would have to be with in tractor perameters also,because factory specs are based on tractor perameters,engine speed,field strength, etc.
 
Wlie you guys are sitting inside on your confusers I was out getting in some seat time lol. I moved my walk behind snow blower to summer storage and Went for a little drive on my 100 and the 1962 Original. I went to start my chrapsman and It had no gas in it
1a_scratchhead.gif
.I always put them away with treated gas, so before I attempted to start it I checked the oil and was shocked to see where the gas went.So the Original towed the Crapsman to the shop lol.I see another isue with my 100, The tires are loaded and one has sprung a leak and the rim is a rusty looking mess. Just more for me to keep busy.

Anyone have a idea how the tank lost all the gas in the base
1a_scratchhead.gif


187671.jpg
 
Bobby, wow, you look way different when you're not dressed in hunting camo...
Shotgun.gif
 
Don T., I assume you're saying the gas is in the crankcase with the oil? Does that Crapsman have a diaphragm fuel pump? If so, it's time for a rebuild kit for the fuel pump AND it'd be a good idea to install an inline fuel shut-off valve in the fuel line. I once had my Allis Chalmers 620 drain it's fuel tank into the crankcase due to a failed fuel pump diaphragm. I installed the shut-off valve AND I use it, so far so good.
happy.gif
 
On my original the 8 horse has a oil drain in the bottom rather than on the side that is the
only difference. I found out what was wrong with my sterrinc isshu the plate that holds the sterring rod that is controlled by the worm gear
and the adjusting nut has a bolt that holds it on and lets it move backand forth thanks to a po mod it broke a po welded this bolt head in place
I will trie to upload some pictures later.

What I was saying on my 122 was I can not figure
out why I have more clearence between my tire
and my finder on one wheel than the other.
 

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