Archive through April 01, 2010

[digger]

Brad R.
If you spun out, you were pushing the tiller/tractor to hard/fast.
Patience is a virtue while tilling.
The slower the better.
Ag tires with deep lugs are not needed.

 

[tstewart]

Alright got to post some pics of the new shoes... got my V61's on and the atv rears, so far I love the combo compared to my previous turfs. The guy wanting $50 for install was tempting only since he lives about 1 mile away and this is pretty much middle of no where. However, Discount Tire, who I ordered the ATVs from offered to mount them for $10/tire including the V61s that I didnt get from them so I just told em do it. Last time I tried to change a tire didnt turn out so well.

I didnt even get a chance to take a pic until after they got dirty though, sorry. Was out rolling the lawn today...

The hydro 129 was driving me nuts rolling the lawn maintaining speed and it needs adjustaed anyhow so I put the new tires onto the 1000.

V61's up front:

GBC Gators out back:

25x10x12 compared to the 23x8.5x12 they replaced:

I Still think I could have squeezed the 26's under there without needing to do anything, oh well:

Wanted to get the biggest tire I could but still be able to mow and not to wide for my 10" plow, or my stock rims. I think these fit the bill perfectly and so far they seem good but time will tell shortly when I am plowing... Only thing I wished they had a little bigger lugs spaced a little closer but overall probably one of the closest atv to ag tires I've seen.

 

[hsimon]

Got my share of tilling in tonite, had a coworker ask me to come out and till up his 2 acre garden. Was kind of "thearapudic" to spend almost 3 hours on the 1650 with the tiller.

 

[bjrainey]

Charlie,
I was plowing, not tilling, wasn't going real fast.
I think it has alot to do with my inexperience plowing.
Not sure I have the plow adjusted correctly.
Although it worked really well in the spot we used as a garden last year.
The area I was trying to plow was a grass called azoiza(sp?) grass. Some of the toughest sod I ever tried to dig, much less plow through.
Will try out a tiller on that spot tomorrow, using my neighbors 1812 and tiller.
Later, Brad

 

[bjrainey]

Tristan,
What kind of tires are those on the rear?
They are the closet thing I've seen to an ag tire.
Looks Good!
Brad
Never mind, just saw the brand in between the pics, anyhow, they look great!

 

[digger]

Brad R.
Turf tires and 2 link chains will do just fine for pulling a plow.

 

[mgerecke]

Question regarding my hydro transmission on my 149. I am in a complete rebuild on the whole tractor. It is all taken apart and I am fixing/replacing all the worn parts. I just had the trunion piece welded on in place of my worn square area where the springs sit and had my driveshaft coupler repaired so it fits tight on the shaft. Now I am trying to decide if I should remove the cover on the transmission. This is the cast piece that the hydro filter screws to so I can paint it correctly. Am I crazy to remove this to paint so I don't get paint onto the aluminum housing? It would be a lot easier to prepare it for paint taken apart.
After reading my service manual, it is talking about the 2 bearings inside have to be .1 inch protruding from the cast housing and also referred to "new" bearings when you open it up and re-assemble. Any thoughts would be helpful.

 

[dfrisk]

BRAD R. - If You can't pull a moldboard plow thru that sod without spinning out you'll never get a rototiller to chew it up.
I'd try to get your plow set to plow shallower.

TRISTAN - Nice looking tire combo. The 26" tall rears would fit but you don't want the lugs TOO close to the lip of the fenders. It could become a real safety hazard; wrapping fingers over edge of fender while moving equals Mangled fingers!

Going with the 10" wide tire it fits the 7" rims really well, the tire/rim contact bead is very well protected. Plowing with wide tires really isn;t a problem, I've plowed with my 26-12.00's on the 982 a time or two, and years ago I used to plow with 18.4 X 34's in furrows left from a 14" plow bottom. The furrow tire made just a bit of an impression the first bottom wouldn't cover. If the tractor had been red, not green I could have pulled the plow fast enough to cover it however!

 

[mgwin]

Would anyone have an electrical diagram for a model 70 with lights and a amp gauge?

Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[mgwin]

Thanks Kraig!

My 70 thanks you too.
Moving right along with the restoration.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, WOW, it's looking great!

BTW, the thanks should go to Roland Bedell for making nice fancy colored versions of the various <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet electrical diagrams.

That electrical diagram doesn't show the charge indicator (aka: amp gauge) connections. I do have the installation manual for it, it's a single sheet, too big to post. I can send the jpg version (541KB) via email. Let me know if you want me to send it.

 

[mgwin]

Kraig,
Yes, please do. Again, a great big thanks to everyone who had a part in helping!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, it's on it's way. Nice 128 in your profile photo.

Tristan, good looking tires.

Don D., those are sure deep lugs on those rice paddy tires, good to see your flamed hood 100 again.

 

[bnolte]

D.L.Jones,
The CCO had some clutch and frame cracking issues that were corrected in the 70/100 and later series. That being said, the fact that this particular machine is still around after 50 years says something. My take is that if you want a historically correct restoration, go out and see if you can find a 7 horse motor, and go for it. If the 8 horse motor runs ok, I doubt the extra pony will make much of a difference if you don't plan to run it all that hard, perhaps set the governor a couple hundred RPMs lower if it concerns you.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lucas, to add to what Bruce said, the Original chassis can easily handle 10hp or more. Art A. has a 10hp in his Original aka "Plow Special" and it's not a trailer queen. Art has had his Plow Special at numerous plow days aside from one mishap at it's first plow day, a weak axle clip that popped off, I do believe it has performed flawlessly. Not sure what you are saying about your 122 and the axle bushings.

Hmmm, I thought only the 7hp Cubs used axle bushings, according to the Parts Lookup the 122 also used bushings.

The 123 is listed as using bearings... was this where the change occured? The 72 and 73 are listed as using bushings.

 

[mgwin]

Kraig,
Am I correct in stating: the charge indicator goes inline with the gray(+) wire going from the push/start switch to the voltage regulator?
If this is true, wouldn't this make the charge indicator hot all the time and drain the battery?

 

[dfrisk]

LUCAS - Not sure what you mean by "Problems" with your CC with the K181 Kohler in it. I think the stock dry pleated paper air cleaner on the K181 might interfer with the hood. But externally EVERYTHING else is the same except the internal crankshaft throw, which gives the 1/4 in. longer stroke and the extra HP. If all you want is the correct spec number on the data tag find somebody to swap engine tins with.

The K181 was the Official IH replacement engine after it was released by Kohler. Dad installed a K181 in the 70 out in the shop back in about 1974. The K161 was over-taxed running a 38" deck in the 7 HP tractors. The 70 was new in '65, professionally rebuilt in '68, Dad & I rebuilt it in '71, and the K181 installed in '74. We were mowing two farm yards all those years but the K181 or K241 would have held up MUCH longer.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, it only appears that way. The negative side of the indicator gauge is not connected to ground, it is connected to the regulator, which I believe only completes the connection when the engine is running.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ah, it's the ignition switch that completes the circuit, note the "L" connection on the regulator and compare to the 70/100 electrical diagram.