Archive through April 01, 2004

[dfrisk]

DAVE K. - That's the place! I remember them when they were clear out on Andulusia Road couple blocks west of the Cinemas in Milan. My Buddy has them do machine work also, build up worn shafts, cut keyways, etc. Nice little shop.
Problem with Me is it's been so long since I lived/worked in that area, and the fact the AG industry isn't there like it was 20 yrs ago most of the shops I dealt with are long gone!
And if Your ever working on a project that You need a .003" dia. hole bored dead straight for 20 or more feet long I have a phone number for you in Ohio. ;-) Sometimes this job is kinda interesting! Like the time I called Good Year looking for a 4" x 4" piece of #4 Aeroship cloth for a regulator diaphram. Price was resonable but the Minumum run quantity wasn't. I could have made a tent big enough to cover Hundreds of Cub Cadets.

 

[sblunier]

Robert Reed:

Did you put the charge pump on backwards???? There is a flat tab on one ear that must be orientated to a soecific side of the machine...have to look at the manual to tell you which side.

Are the dump/release valves stuck down (indicating that the charge pump is just circulating oil but not moving the tractor)

Is the charge pump relief spring broken/seat blocked open and not allowing it to build enough pressure to "charge" the hydro???

Are you using a HYD. SUCTION filter on it????? You cannot substitute a car oil filter, it won't work.

Is the roll pin that drives the gear pump inside the charge pump housing sheared????


Changing to the new PN for trans fluid WILL NOT fix your problem. If a Sundtrand hydro won't run on new Hy-Tran there is a problem.

 

[cosborne]

Hello. I'm still waiting for the manuals from the binder sponsor to come in the mail. ITMT some more CC129 questions:

1. The hydro check valves on this tractor are stuck down. I've pulled them out and soaked them in new hy-tran. Using WD40 I've freed the pins but they don't return on their own - I have to push them back from below. I can see a little spring in the bottom of the assembly - is this spring supposed to do the return on its own or is the hydraulic fluid prssure required - i.e. does it have to be in a running tractor in order to self return?

2. Can the check valve be disassembled? how?

3. Are all the hydo rear plate bolts (3/8-16 threads) the same length or are different lengths required for the different holes?

All help appreciated.

 

[psharp]

Hey,
I was thinking about using it on the 100. But from what your sales literature says I should mount it on the original. What do you think? My Mott Hammer Knife’s been in storage for about 15 years so I’m not exactly sure what I’m going to need parts wise. I was just curious whether anyone else had one because it seems to be a pretty rare attachment!!

I had another question for the board off subject. Can anybody tell me what the maximum overbore is for the 7 horse and the 10 horse early Kohler engines? The ones used on the Original and the 100, 102, etc. I’m asking because I am going to have to rebuild a couple of my Cub’s engines, and I know that a couple of them have been bored out before. I am hoping I don’t need to find an engine.

Thanks!
Peter Sharp

 

[dbellamy]

Hi again. I've now managed to get my 109 as a turn key runner I'm one happy camper next week I'll repair the cutting bed and we'll be mowing.
I have a question? re the hydrostatic I have a small lever at my right knee that says Drive & release it apears to be missing the tab to activate the 2 valves i will try to fab somthing but what does this actually do? TIA Don

 

[till]

Peter S,

.030 inches over bore is about it. You might be able to go with an 8 hores piston on the 7 hores.

The 10 horse might be able to go to a 12 horse if there is enough meat in the cylinder bore....

 

[fmorski]

Went to a consignment sale yesterday. Had two originals jump on my trailer and a 108 crawl inside my van for a ride home. One of the originals is strictly a parts donor. Had two right side axle housings, no carb, no starter/gen and no wiring. Does have a good hood and some other parts. The second original was a "Puller". Has 26-12-12's and a hot rod engine according to the owner. Decent shape and most parts present. THe 108 was listed as rough on sale bill. Just the opposite. Nice paint and all the parts there. One flat tire and broken hood hinge. Other than that, it was pretty decent.

Client called and he has one he wants me to take off his hands. Not sure what model but some where around a 107.

Pretty good week of cubbing. Count is now over 25.


The 1450 is rebuilt and ready for Plow day. May try the 26-12-12's on it. Not cut for pulling so they may work.

 

[wdeturck]

Peter S.: There is a difference between the Original and the 70/100 Mott mounting brackets. compare the mounts between the Original

and the bracket on the 100 in the add.

I had the mounts for an Allis Chalmers B-10 on the Mott I bought and could find no parts or information. Cub Connections had a weld shop fab the bracket for it to fit my Original.

My Mott had sat for a long time and the belt clutching springs were rusted so bad it wouldn't release. Had to take it all apart but the parts were good. I still have the original blades on mine as it was hardly used.

 

[wcompton]

Got a little side deal going for a neighbor . . .
Will a mechanical fuel pump interfere with the throttle linkage on a 1450? Looks like it might occupy the same space but maybe not.

 

[wheinsohn]

Wyatt,
A 314 Deere uses the same throttle linkage and has a mechanical fuel pump so I see no reason why it would not work.

 

[wcompton]

Wes-
Thanks, I'll check a parts catalog tomorrow.

(Message edited by wcompton on April 01, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Hey Don- Congrats on getting the 109 to be a turn-key. The lever by your right knee depresses the two 'buttons' that operate bypass valves between the hydrostat's hydraulic motor. In normal state, the buttons are up, and the only way oil can flow through the hydraulic motor, is if it's pushed there by the variable-displacement pump... SO... if the pump's not spinning, you'll have a very tough time pushing the tractor around. By lifting the lever (and depressing the two buttons), the motor's ports are opened to flow, and you can push the tractor around 'fairly' easily. If your lever's missing the tab, just spot-weld another tab on the shaft.

Calvin- re. your question #1- the valves DO have little springs in 'em, and I've found a few that were stuck... I just sprayed some oil in 'em, and lightly tapped on 'em 'till they moved a bit free'er. I've had 'em stick in the down position, but mine seemed to jump right back up as soon as you fire up the engine and move the S/R lever to forward or reverse position. I've never had 'em apart- perhaps someone else can confirm this.

 

[latherton]

Kraig, My Thoughts are with you, I lost my 22 yr. old son last November, It is a battle every day.
I would imagine losing a brother is very similar.

 

[kweimann]

Calvin,
Remove the (2) O-rings and Nylon backup ring from each valve, soak overnight in PB Blaster, then rinse good to clean with Acetone and blow them out good with compressed air. An ultrasonic jewelry cleaner works great but not many people have one. Then reassemble with new Nitrile (Buna-N) -016 and -116 size O-rings, re use the nylon backup rings, soak in Hytran, then install and you are good to go. I'm toying with using the electrolysis method on a pair of these, as I've had good results on other parts. Kenny

 

[dreinbold]

Question...I checked the FAQ page and did not see what I was looking for. Where would one find information as to the original selling price for these great CC tractors?
Dean

 

[kmcconaughey]

Larry, sorry to hear about the loss of your son. (

Don B., the tab is available from CC Specialties, see the link above. (UNDER EDIT: Hmmm, I just looked for them but perhaps they are no longer available but it couldn't hurt to send Travis or some of the other sponsors an email to check on the availability of the tabs) The tab releases the hydro so that the tractor can be pushed around. Without the release the rear wheels will not rotate. Here's what the tab should look like.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 02, 2004)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dean J., which models are you looking for the original suggested pricing? I have most of that info.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave K2, I assume that is you in the "Bass Player" photos you posted, how old are the photos? )

 

[sselinger]

Hey all, it's been a while since I last posted so I thought I'd give you my cub update and ask a question . . .

Went to an auction on Saturday and came back with a 105 (with a 3 pt, helper spring, snow blade and modified frame for a 14 horse engine) and a really nice 1450. That's my first WIDEFRAME! I ended up selling the 105 minus the 3 pt and helper spring on Monday and traded the snow blade for a 3 pt for my 1450.

Now that I have the 3 pt for the 1450, I need to install it. Looks pretty straight forward with putting the cast piece on the back but I'm a little confused as to how the lift bar attaches to the lift cyl/rock shaft. It's quite different from my 147! I took the tunnel cover off but didn't see a location where this could attach. Any help is appreciated.

Back out into the rain . . . .

Steve

 

[rreed]

Mr. Plow,
I am also a Mechanical Engineer. UMD 1964. I think the answers to all your hints are yes. The flat on the charge pump housing, port plate and gasket are to the left looking forward from the tractor. The pin and rotor assembly are all O.K. I have looked in the hole for the charge regulator valve with the while turning the shaft with a 1/2 inch drill. There is no fluid flow. It just isn't pulling fluid over the cooling loop I guess. I will disassemble pump and check it and the suction line again. Robert Reed (Doc)