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Archive through June 11, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Wyatt -- if it still cracks heat it to 600ºF for ten minutes to anneal it. If it's softer it'll flex easier and shouldn't break. Since 600ºF will be hard to achieve for most people 500º in the oven will be close 'nuff.
That's what I can't figure about these people that buy trailers with expanded metal floors ... they crack around the welds! Expanded metal or tempered screens can't flex if they are mounted solid.
 
Frank -- go in Puller's section.
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Ken-
I think the problem with folks breaking the screens was from the mis-application of fasteners. Flat washers should be used only if the hole is slotted (providing the hole is appropriately sized to the fastener) or if the fastener is needed to be torqued a given accuracy. The serrated washer is perfect here . . . . I could go on, but recalling the week-long fastener class I went through would have the net effect of a box of Sominex.

Problem with the screens is that most have gone long enough being loose that unless you find one that's NOS, they're usually cracked & warped bad. Though I hate the plastic screens, they're a lot less worry.
 
Wyatt -- best case scenario ... a flat metal ring around the hole pattern with "your" choice of washers
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well on second thought you'd still just have the support of what contacts the screw bosses unless you sandwiched it with two rings then the boses would need milled down to avoid hitting the shroud


(Message edited by kweaver on June 13, 2004)
 
Wyatt, the problem with these screens is that they are just set into the punch press and punched. The bolt holes are sometimes very large because the screen is perferated and if punched in the wrong spot, all you have is a couple tangs sticking out for the bolt to clamp down on. That is why I used the flat washers the last time and again this time. The perfect screen would not be perferated around where it mounts to the hub but that would mean making a special part and not just punch it out of a sheet of perferated metal.
 
I need help from someone with tiller experience. Can I leave the tiller angle gearbox on the tractor when I put on the brinley sleave hitch on for plowing, cultivating, etc. Or, do I have to unbolt the gearbox and put on the lower 3 point bracket for the sleave hitch each time I change from tiller to plow?
CJM
 
This rain has been nuts lately, but it sure does make for some nice sunsets!
19543.jpg

Kraig-
Looks like the "hacksaw method" works for more than just steering wheels!
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19544.jpg
 
Charles,

I tried exactly that but it doesn't work....the Brinley hitch will hit the gear box...won't let it come down all the way. The only way is to lengthen the Brinley Hitch someway a few inches and maybe it will work.

Paul P.
 
Charles...

it can be done, just weld extensions onto the brinly, and the pickup point to maintin the lift ratio. here is a picture, although not very good, of this setup sporting my fugly, but functional 3-pt weight setup....

19547.jpg
 
Just got a reply from the guy in the UK sellin those Cubs that he dint own and ebay nailed this morning, LOL
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

leo giulia myro_man wrote:
[email protected]
> dear mister
> f_ _k you man<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Guess he wasn't to happy with me this morning, snicker
 
KEN - Your question on the HOUGH endloader, I'm not familiar with a model HA, but I think IH bought Hough in the mid to late 50's. Tom Hoffman lives closer to Libertyville and plays with earth-moving equip. and He may know the exact date. Dresser bought Hough from IH in either '80 or '81 when they were strapped for cash. FRANK - Those little C-60's sure are a cute little engine aren't they? Speaking of grass screens breaking, that's normally a BAD thing. My 129 had one break sometime before I got it and as the engine wadded the screen up into a little ball inside the blower housing it broke 5 of the 12 fins off the flywheel. ALL in a row. Kinda thru the engine out of balance just a bit. It did vibratory stress relieve the block however....And the frame, and vibrated the threads out of all four of the engine mounting holes in the oil pan....
 
I work a couple of miles from the old IH Libertyville plant. This is all thats left in the back lot of the plant, now that Komatasu has pulled out. Their HQ is now in Vernon Hills, one town to the south. Dont know where assembly went to.

19551.jpg

19552.jpg
 
Paul D., are those numbers you posted cast into the hydro unit? Or ????? Do you have a photo of the hydro?
 
Jeff -- haul that sucker down here
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That looks like the size of my HA = 46" wheel base but the counter weight is different and mine has an aluminum steering wheel. I sure could use the front hookup points on that one. I put a hydraulic motor on my trans. Hydro's Rule !!!
 
Digger -- she said you did have a way of getting on ppls nerves in the morning
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I'm having some trouble with my 1450 CC. I was having trouble with it bogging down under load a couple weeks ago. I changed the points and condensor and it seemed to run pretty well for a couple weeks after that. The last time I mowed with it, I had been mowing for about 30 minutes, shut it down for a break, and when I fired it back up, it didn't want to throttle up. It almost acted like it was vapor locked. I feathered the throttle a few times and got it to throttle back up. It ran fine for about ten minutes, then I idled down. When I went to throttle back up, it did the same thing, but I couldn't get it to come back up at all this time. I haven't had it running since. It had a new carburetor last summer, but I took it apart and cleaned it just to be safe. That did no good. I pulled the spark plug and hooked it back up and cranked it over. It has a strong spark. I went ahead and checked the point gap again, and it was still good. I got it to run for about 5 seconds twice, but then it died. I usually can't even get it to fire at all. I pulled the head to check the head gasket and thought I found the problem. The head gasket wasn't blown, but one of the bolts was loose that holds the head on, so I figured I was leaking compression there. I replaced the head gasket and retorqued all the bolts. Still nothing! About the only time I could get any kind of reaction out of it was an occassional backfire once I quit cranking it over. The valves looked good and didn't seem to be sticking when I had the head off. I'm at my wit's end. If anyone has any ideas, I'm definitely open to suggestions. This is my first CC. Thanks, Shawn.
 
Morning Folks

Finally got activated.I need some help on a 3PT
Cat O hitch for a 982. I bought this at an auction
and it needs some help.The arm that attaches to the rockshaft, not the lift arms, was broke. I need to know the position of the arm,in relation to the lift arms.We will say the lift arms are at 3 o clock, what time is the arm that attaches to the hydro-lift at?

Thanks for your Help
 
Dennis L. I don't know if this will help or not but.
19556.jpg
 
Shawn -- it sounds like either ignition or fuel. Did you try pulling the choke a little ? If it runs better with it choked a little then it's either getting air around a gasket or the fuel flow is hampered. It could be a weak / bad condensor. If you have a digital volt meter you can test it. First remove it then charge it to the battery. Case to neg. wire to pos. Just give it a second to charge then lay it down for a few minutes and drink a cup of coffee. Don't let it touch any metal or your fingers. Take the meter and check the voltage on the battery , then check the condensor and see if it has the same reading between the two. If it does then it's good , if it's low then it's leaking off.
It sounds like fuel trouble the most.
It also sounds kinda like the truck I had once that wouldn't take a fast throttle because the distributor didn't have an advance in it.

Dennis L -- you're takin it for granted that we can tell time
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Sorry but I don't have one of those beast ... wish I did !
 
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