Archive through April 01, 2004

[wdeturck]

Wyatt: do you have an adustable reamer that you could stick in the guide & mike that? You might need one for the new guide.

 

[wcompton]

Well, as of last night exhaust port was finished. I likely didn't have to remove the threads from the exhaust port, but since I'm not using them I figured they'd cause undue turbulence, so I just took the threads down to the root diameter and cleand it up from there. Around the exhaust valve guide isn't as nice. Unless I find that I do in fact need a new intake guide all left is for the block to get bored and valve seats cut and the Wheatland's block will be awaiting final assembly.

If anyone happens to know where there's a aux water pump, something with a 5/8" to 1.25" keyed shaft, I need something to flog this engine for break-in. Since I don't have the tractor rolling and I want to get the motor tuned and dyno'd I figure a water pump is good to load it up, and the little creek nearby

has some extra water.

 

[dkamp]

Hey Wyatt... instead of just making a break-in load, why don't you incorporate a couple'a extra parts and make a dynomometer?

What you do is... get a good-sized hydraulic pump... like 20gpm @ 3500psi, and end-mount it on a pivot at crankshaft height, put an arm and load-cell on there...

Then run a line from (probably need 8 gallons or so) reservoir, through a radiator (with electric fan), into the pump, then from the pump, past a pressure-relief set to flow 30gpm @ 2500psi, then to a throttle-valve, back to the reservoir...and mount a tach on the pump's input shaft.

Connect the load-cell and tach signal to a computer... might wanna put an exhaust pyrometer and a cylinder-head temp sensor on it too... write a little piece of software that takes readings of all at same time.

With the throttle valve totally open, there'll be essentially no pump pressure, just lots'a flow. When you close the throttle valve, the line pressure will rise, and the pump will start imposing load on the engine. The pump's torque reaction will fall on the load-cell, which will measure engine torque. If you do your geometry right, you'll get a direct milliamps-to-foot-pounds type ratio, so easy math!

You could simplify the whole thing by using a motorcycle disk-brake and caliper to make a simple friction load-source(instead of all that plumbing and oil), but the hydraulic method (with heat exchanger) will be more able to run continuous-duty, while the brake will eventually become overheated and melt down. You'll need continuous-duty for break-in, but there ain't much difference in fabrication between using an old farm pump and an old hydraulic pump.

I've been considering making a portable dyno of the brake-disk variety for testing small engines, but have enough projects already...

 

[wcompton]

I just want to make sure it's broke in with the rings seated well, plus if I find a problem then money's not wasted at the dyno. I've got enough grand ideas as it goes.

(Message edited by wcompton on April 03, 2004)

 

[aaytay]

Bryan-
Do you notice any improvements in starting or running with that points-saver?

I think I'm going to post this on my office door at work....

Wyatt-
That exhaust port picture is neat!

 

[rmull]

Was out using the aerator in the yard with the 1408 and all of a sudden I came to a stop...still in gear, and when I pushed the clutch down, the tractor started to creep forward.

I am hoping rollpin...but am hoping not a gear or axle.

Any suggestions, it will be a couple days before I can tear it down.

 

[dross]

PD-7 update, Up over 30 people and 25 tractors pulling plows.
Next Sat. I'll send out one mass mailing to everyone who has notified me by e-mail. To make sure your counted, and to notify everyone in case of a rain delay. I'll also post any rain delay information here.
Figure on an official start time of 8 AM.

 

[czuck]

Wyatt Compton,
A backyard mechanic's method of checking valve guides: Lightly oil the valve stem and insert into the guide. Place finger over bottom of valve guide and pull valve out. If you hear a pop as the valve exits the guide you're good to go, if not you need to replace the guide. It has worked for me many times.

 

[cdelong]

Gentlemen...........Would one of you kind souls enlighten me as to the correct kohler rod number for my K-321 Ser. # 2107037, spec. # 6099A. Had a little mis-hap this morning while warming up after the long winter. While idleing, rod broke in 4 places. When I look-up a new rod, it calls for a 47 067 09. The one that came out of this engine is a 47 059 04.
What is the difference???
Craig

 

[pvolner]

Will 26x12x12 ag tires work on a cub 128 using a 44" mower? There is a set in the paper for sale, I called about them and they are five lug pattern just wandering if they will fit.

 

[shoff]

Hi Guys! Thanks for the help Dave and Digger. I do have one more question though. Does the tiller use the same mule drive as the mower deck? Thanks again.

Shawn

 

[digger]

Shawn,
Some guys like me do use the mower drive setup with just the springs, but a lot of guys go for the bolt tension design like the manual shows.

I average anywhere from 7 to 8,000 feet a year with my tiller and have yet to replace my long EXPENSIVE belt. Lucky I spose!

 

[nfisher]

hey Dave K.,
i guess it's just one of those cosmetic things, i like to match my socks too.
ordered the turf masters last night, there's no turning back now!

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Phillip, 26-12x12s will likely interfere with the deck's gage wheels. Another consideration is whether you have an internal brake rearend. The calipers on the outboard brakes make interfere otherwise. If they are on rims from a CC super GT like a 982 or newer they will fit around the brakes. I had a set on a nice 1200 that I had in a parade once and it looked fantastic!! However the 44a deck did interfere and the larger diameter made dropping the deck low enough a problem. I say buy them and use them for plowing,playing etc,but use the 10.50's for mowing work

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Ryan,99.999% a rollpin,I have experienced that myself. Had me worried also until I took off the middle cover. Now enjoy getting the thing lined up so you can drift it out ;-)

 

[kdunham]

Craig D.-If I had to guess one number is standard,one is .010 under. If the .010 number is the one you took out you are looking for a crank,unless you get EXTREMELY lucky and it's still perfect(at .010 under).

 

[bgolden]

I bought a 149 a few days ago. Everything seems to work as it should except for the forward and reverse control lever . It feels as if nothing is connected to it. I removed the drive shaft cover and checked the linkage. Everything works with no noticeable wear in any of the slots.
I starts smoothly in forward and reverse but I have to hold the lever in place.
Is there a friction adjustment that will make it stay where it is set.
I have a service manual ordered but don't know when I'll get it.
I did a selling job to convince my wife that we needed the fourth cadet. I need advice bad...
Bill Golden

(Message edited by bgolden on April 03, 2004)

 

[wcompton]

Thanks for the notes on the valve guide, on the way to take the wife shopping in Dubuque I stopped in at the customer appreciation days at the Cub Cadet dealer in Dyersville and found that they had one in stock, VERY old stock, but a new valve guide all the same. Took a little doing to get the old one out and the new one back in, tried sitting the guide in ice for an hour, didn't seem to make a differnce.

Which brings me to the next deal, while I was out on the town I tried finding something for myself, a simple brass drift or punch. I've never had one, and it seems like I've seen them everywhere, BUT today. Ace, Lowes, Menards, TruValue, Sears, NAPA didn't have them, most all didn't know why the heck I'd be looking for one in brass.

I ended up making a guide driver out of the old guide with a portion of old stem ground down so it slips in the new guide and staked the other side in the old guide. Worked OK, but still would have rather found the brass punch.

 

[rmull]

Thanks Jim! Glad it didn't happen while in the field plowing!

Ended up using 1872 to get the aerator back from the end of the yard, and ran it over the entire garden to help let some air in on this 57deg 30MPH windy day. Should be able to get out there and do some plowing if we don't get any rain in the next two day.

Ran the 582 around the yard pulling the trailer w/dirt to fill holes from extracting large rocks. Even put the 50C on and did a little mowing before the great Easter Egg hunt tomorrow afternoon.

Ever had to get a cat down from 25ft up in a tree when it is blowing 30MPH? Up there on the pucker meter to say the least. (Cat too probably!)

 

[rmull]

Tom H. I went over to the PD7 forum to post and let you know that I will be heading there on Friday, but it seems to be locked....

What is everybody doing for hotel? We gonna get together on Friday night?