18/2082

[lbuttke]

Kentucky

you might want to rethink your mounting point on the plow.
I belive you should have a different way for the blade to float, as from what I can see in the photos you have very little float advailable and could possably damage the lifting ram.

 

[kweaver]

Lonny - I don't really want very much float. I want to cut when it's down. If your going to float you might as well drag a board behind ya

 

[lbuttke]

Kentucky

It is possable to build a float into the lift point on the plow and still have down presure.
All you need is a couple sloted lift straps welded to the end of the lift ram, with enough room left over for down preasure.
Kind of like the built in float on the newer MTD cubs have built into the rear 3 point lift.
#31 in the diagram below.

 

[mgonitzke]

Lonny-

If you look very closely at the actuator attachment on the "up" and "down" pictures from the side, you can see that he has a little bit of float built in.

 

[kweaver]

Yeah there's some float built in , for now ...
I hooked it up that way as a quickie so I could get pics. Any more than that chain couplier and it wouldn't let it lift high enough.

I wanted the actuator more vertical but it was getting to close to the exhaust. If it was more vertical a few chain links wouldn't have been a problem.

I'll find out how it works when it dries up some , I've got to get my driveway cut down.

Next project is a CAT-0 ripper to tear up the gravel.

 

[kweaver]

I used the front blade some , it's slow waiting on the liner actuator.

Here's something that the slowness wouldn't bother.

 

[kweaver]

Well the carb is back to acting like it's getting grit in it again after a new tank and new lines !!

But before it started acting up I got this done.
I found a place to hide a 66 pound junk of steel

This is what I was working on , trying to get the water from the front of the garage door to the drain at the carport.

Extra rear weight , another 66 pounds for when I just use the front blade.

Then if I want to use the front and rear blade I add the second weight here.

I'm glad I haven't swept that side of the floor yet !

 

[aaytay]

Ken-
Is the fuel filter on that tractor in front of the fuel pump, or after it?

I've heard that these fuel pumps can go bad, and dump grit into the carb as they do it, so if you have no fuel filter after the fuel pump, that could be your problem...

<font size="-2">(Well one of your problems anyway.........)</font>

 

[kweaver]

Art - It's before the pump. I'd thought before about taking the pump apart and seeing if the diaphragm was deteriorating.
With THIS! coming I need to GET'R Done !!

After I check in here

 

[kweaver]

I've took that damn carb OFF 4 times today to clean the bowl. I've got a filter fore and aft of the pump. I've taken the pump apart and cleaned it.
It's still dieing for lack of fuel. Right now it's dead and both filters have gas in them. It's had grit in the bowl everytime I've cleaned it. I think the pump is the culprit but with the "after pump" filter it shouldn't be getting grit.
It's a super fine grit and I'm sure the needle needs to be cleaned BUT it doesn't come out.
This has a Walboro carb ... wonder if the fuel injection off my TOY will work ?

I bought a little electric pump but I'm affraid the 4-7psi might be to much for the float to handle and it'll pump out liquid gold all over the engine. Of all my "parts" I don't have a regulator.

I called a parts store that rebuilds Kohlers and has parts in stock but without the engine spec numbers they can't find a pump.

I've got one coming from MTD ... but the wait !!

 

[kweaver]

Well I air hosed the carb in every direction this time (first time) and it's running although missing. It may have fouled a plug but at least I got my grading done !!

 

[kweaver]

It LIVES!
After a night of soaking in gelled carb cleaner and a good wash in the parts cleaner tank and 125psi of air the carb is running right and smoooooth.

The carb cleaner didn't get off all the black paint though

Painting carbs is a no no !

Now I need to take out the 4.3L Chevy spark plugs and put in the right ones, I think these may be a little hot for an air cooled engine

 

[kweaver]

Okay sew I sez to mi celf it be tyme ta chainz erl in da ol cub. Well afther I foundz the dang drayn bung I sayed a fuw cuss werdz then sum moore. I werent bout ta unbowlt tha dang enjun. I fount a 3/8 dryve sockit thayt wood goes on da skware hed and a sywvel joint and gott to et beetwen tha enjun an da fryme. Gittin awf wuz ezy, put'tin et baak on wuz 17 moore cuss werdz...until ...

I had the bright idea of slipping the square headed pipe plug into a piece of plastic hose about a foot long. Instint extension and swivel joint. That worked for the 2 or 3 bends I had to do to line it up and screw it in.

Oil is changed with a fresh Kohler filter.

 

[jlhayes]

Good idea Ken

youse thet id misself on haurd to reech sparc pluggs.

 

[kweaver]

I need help to I.D. my starter as it's shot ... thank's to the cable stud being loose and spun when tightening and messed up by the PO.

Need parts ASAP as you can see it's parked in a BAD location... AKA the 'ol lady's parking spot

What "Parts Lookup" shows for a 2082

Different Bendix between the two starters.
My Bendix is shot too ... what's next ??

 

[jdiederichs]

hey Ken!

Yew knead tew youse a Kohler 82 755 28-S bendix kit as well az an 82 755 28-S brush/stud kit.

Jus order frum a Kuhler dealer ok bud?

This spel chech wurks grate!

 

[mgonitzke]

Do you have a 20 hp Mag or is it 18? The starters are different. From the configuration of the starter lead terminal, I'd say that's an M18 starter.

Starter: KH-52-098-03
Brushes: KH-48-755-15 (aftermarket: $8.99)
Bendix: KH-52-755-05 (aftermarket is $62, I'm afraid to know what the OEM kit costs....)

EDIT: Not sure why Jim and I have different numbers...I used parts lookup for 1882.

 

[kweaver]

Hey JD <font size="-2">the GOOD JD that is ... not the green one!</font>

Thankx !
Long time no read, glad to see you still kickin'.

 

[kweaver]

Matt
Don't know what it is. Pieced together rebuild engine in a 1882 from Indiana with no number tag.
Was told it was a 20hp.

The Bendix end is different on an 1882/2082 than my starter. Mine doesn't have all the extra parts on the shaft. Mine is just the spring, cup , lock ring above the gear.

 

[jdiederichs]

Matt,

Lots of the service parts for the Magnums are now id as 82 prefix'd parts numbers due to the multiple revisions or supersessions. Ken may want to look at an aftermarket starter thru Stens etc. The old Bosch starters were pricey to repair.....wish I wuz still at kohler, i'd have a care package out already