Hi everyone -- I have a model 2518 tractor that I've been through probably 12 PTO belts for this summer. Back in April the bearings gave out on the spindle that turned the blades, an ever since then belts get insanely hot, twist, and give out. I've replaced the spindle bearings, the entire PTO clutch, bent the adjuster arm holder back into shape, and tried mowing at every height possible and still can't get them to work for more than about 30 minutes. I ordered new idler pulleys and will try those, but if that doesn't work I'm completely out of ideas. Does anybody have any ideas? The blade belt system itself and those pulleys and bearings all work great, that belt doesn't have any issues at all. It's just the PTO belt. There's no way that it's a function of some incredibly fine-tuned height adjustment is there? These things have to be able to be used by normal people who don't think about that kind of thing. Any insights would be appreciated. Also, I am using the correct belt, but not OEM. I am also routing it correctly and make sure that the appropriate twists are put in it so that the V is always in the notch of the pulley when it starts.
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Wits end with twisted PTO belts
- Thread starter tpell516
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
Do all three spindles spin freely with no spindle belt on the deck? How about the tensioner idlers and the idler pulleys at the front of the tractor? What belt specifically are you using? Got a link? Not all belts can handle the twisting in this application. It needs to be for a mower.
If all of that is good, it may be very simply that the belt is slipping, causing it to get hot. Is the belt getting hot enough you can smell it?
If all of that is good, it may be very simply that the belt is slipping, causing it to get hot. Is the belt getting hot enough you can smell it?
Not OEM?
What kind of belts are you using then?
What is the model number $ size of your mower deck!
What is the model number of your tractor, 2518-44 or 2518-48?
What kind of belts are you using then?
What is the model number $ size of your mower deck!
What is the model number of your tractor, 2518-44 or 2518-48?
Most of the non oem belts are not adequate for the power in a mower application. The simply fall apart and as said above they cannot take the heat or the twisting. They are not rated for the hp and they rarely are the right length. Most cc and jd belts are in a fractional size like a 97.5 inch length instead of 97 or 98. The pulley could be worn. The belt should NEVER bottom out in a V pulley. If it does bottom out either the pulley is worn out, you have the wrong cross sectional size or it’s a crap belt either worn out or made poorly. OEM is a B belt which is an industrial belt and a 5L is a fractional belt. Both have the same cross-section but the 5L cannot withstand the abuse of a mower. You can put a B in a 5L application as an upgrade but a 5L in a B application is going to fail fast. Scamazon sellers will list a 5L as a B but it is not worth saving the extra 10-20 dollars.
Please buy an O.E.M belt after extensive checking of the pulleys,bearings and alignment as previous replys have stated.As many previous owners with problems have found out,not all belts have the ability or design to stand up.The parts she was designed for,in the long term,is usually a cheaper and less frustrating solution.Good luck
Tpell,what you didn't say:are belts breaking,unraveling,stretching, or just coming off.Im thinking when you get new pulleys and correct belt your problem will be over..Unless: you have a bearing going bad that is dragging seriously enough to overheat the pulley and the belt.
