What started as a non-starting 129 is turning into much more...

[Tom Gegenheimer]

Hi all- In another thread, I posted about how my 129 won't start. It only has 15psi of compression. The valves appear to be seating, and the cylinder wall looks immaculate. I wonder if I have a stuck ring.

Anyways, I pulled the engine to work on it. Then I saw how dirty the engine compartment was.

Then I decided to pull the rear off to seal a leak replace all the seals.

Anways... this happened.

So now I'm looking at paint, redoing the steering, etc. All before figuring what is ailing my poor K301.

I got a quote from Dave Kirk for some new parts and am considering the Case IH yellow and white paints.

Getting the screws out of the foot rests wasn't too difficult with the right tools. A small propane torch for heat and an impact driver broke each one free. I'll definitely get the stainless steel ones as replacements from Dave.

I have a sandblasting cabinet for the smaller parts but may just scuff the frame up. I haven't decided yet how deep I'm going to go into this. I don't have a lot of time and have a 65' Fairlane and 68' Mustang outside waiting to be restored. Plus... I'd like to stay married

Since I have a plethora of wiring lying around, I'm going to make a new wire harness. My tractor did not come with headlights, but I think I'll run wiring for both head/tail lights for down the road.

My tractor was not charging, but tested the starter/generator and it appears to be working. I'm sure the regulator is to blame.

And so ... it begins. Just because the damn thing wouldn't start.

 

[mgonitzke]

If I were you, I'd leave the original paint but clean and polish it. It's only original once, and it looks to be in pretty nice shape yet. Fix all the mechanical issues and you will have a nice looking and operating tractor.

 

[Tom Gegenheimer]

Matt- sadly, someone spray-painted (poorly) over the original paint. They got overspray on everything!

 

[dschwandt]

Load that baby up and head for the washbay!
You might just be surprised.
Been there, done that.
Where do you stop is the issue

 

[-CӞ]

Hi all- In another thread, I posted about how my 129 won't start. It only has 15psi of compression. The valves appear to be seating, and the cylinder wall looks immaculate. I wonder if I have a stuck ring.

Anyways, I pulled the engine to work on it. Then I saw how dirty the engine compartment was.

Then I decided to pull the rear off to seal a leak replace all the seals.

Anways... this happened.

View attachment 152184View attachment 152183View attachment 152182View attachment 152181

So now I'm looking at paint, redoing the steering, etc. All before figuring what is ailing my poor K301.

I got a quote from Dave Kirk for some new parts and am considering the Case IH yellow and white paints.

Getting the screws out of the foot rests wasn't too difficult with the right tools. A small propane torch for heat and an impact driver broke each one free. I'll definitely get the stainless steel ones as replacements from Dave.

I have a sandblasting cabinet for the smaller parts but may just scuff the frame up. I haven't decided yet how deep I'm going to go into this. I don't have a lot of time and have a 65' Fairlane and 68' Mustang outside waiting to be restored. Plus... I'd like to stay married

Since I have a plethora of wiring lying around, I'm going to make a new wire harness. My tractor did not come with headlights, but I think I'll run wiring for both head/tail lights for down the road.

My tractor was not charging, but tested the starter/generator and it appears to be working. I'm sure the regulator is to blame.

And so ... it begins. Just because the damn thing wouldn't start.

Looks like she pulled the pin and then swallowed the grenade. Best wishes getting her all back together again!

 

[1811Cub]

This is textbook mission creep. At least it appears to be a solid unit to begin with.

 

[mgwin]

It's not like it will be worth thousands if you leave what's left of the old paint on it.
It is your's, you get to choose what you do with it.
Maybe this will help:
Which do you prefer?

This:

Or this?

 

[cub1961]

been there and doing that on a 100. everything i touched turned to crap. but its getting there. finding a good stopping point is the problem. i used a grinder with wire wheel to strip everything to bare metal and then used automotive primer and the case/ih white and yellow. lot of work.

 

[Tom Gegenheimer]

Got everything pressure-washed. Going to work on servicing/upgrading the steering system, making a new wiring harness, and replacing the seals in the real end. Also ordered a fan for the driveshaft, as mine did not have one... and I only know it was supposed to have one through watching other refurb videos!

The piston has an 030 on top of it. Does that mean the cylinder was honed out .030, this is a replacement piston, and it's already been rebuilt?

 

[dschwandt]

There Ya go!!
Looks better already and whole lot easier/nicer to work on!!
Now you are off to good start!

 

[dray]

Measure the cylinder diameter in several places at different depths in the cylinder to determine the wear of the block. Maybe just rings will take care of it.

 

[RayF]

I'm surprised no one mentioned these engines have a "compression release" to help in starting. It helps the engine turn over faster in initial cranking. As speed increases, so does compression. It is no surprise your reading was only 15#.
Yes, the .030 number does indicate the engine has been bored and a new piston installed. You may get away with just rings, but I certainly would check for bore "taper".
For the engine, start with the basics:
1) Fuel
2) compression
3) Spark (at the right time)

With those (3).. it should start easily.