What model is this?

[Dustin Wilson]

Can someone let me know where the silver Kohler engine info plaque is located on the engine? Is it below the serial number?

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Hi all, can someone tell me where the elusive “all cast iron” silver Kohler emblem is located on the engine?

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Just wondering, how many parts/ how pricey would it be to add OE front lights?

 

[PACub100]

PAR36 LEDs...Digger has them or Amazon, $35-40 but you'll need the bezel with grommets and wiring. Highly recommend...

 

[mgwin]

Upon further inspection, It appears Dustin may have a QL "upper casing" mounted on a 1x8/1x9 lower casing. Or someone has cut the center bar out of a 1x8/1x9 upper casing. I am betting it is a QL upper, and a 1x8/1x9 lower.

Here is a pic of a quietline tractor. I have the "casing" or "grille," or "front end" circled with an arrow pointing to the two sections. Notice the gap (which is black) between the upper and lower casing, and runs all the way back to the dash tower. Also, the upper casing (where the headlights go) is slightly narrower than the lower casing. I noticed this, because I have been working on a 1000 all day. PACub100 has also posted a close up of a QL casing/grille.

Now here is a pic of Dustin's tractor. Notice the upper casing/grille is larger than the lower casing/grille and there is no black space between the two. The black space is part of the lower QL casing/grille and the side covers.
This is a 1x8/1x9 series lower casing/grille.

Just like my 128!

 

[mgwin]

Went back and looked at Dustin's pics posted today. The first pic shows a QL screen in the upper casing which indicates it is a QL upper casing. Also, you can see that the lower casing is a 1x8/1x9 casing. There is no offset for the black decal which goes between the two casings, and the lower casing is narrower than the upper.

 

[mgwin]

Dustin,
The information label should be on the engine shroud on the left side (sitting on the tractor) down where the frame is. We would like to see a pic of that area also. You have a 1x8/1x9 air filter cover on the carb, instead of the QL enclosed one that has a rubber "tube" that connects to the shroud.

 

[hydroharry]

Went back and looked at Dustin's pics posted today. The first pic shows a QL screen in the upper casing which indicates it is a QL upper casing. Also, you can see that the lower casing is a 1x8/1x9 casing. There is no offset for the black decal which goes between the two casings, and the lower casing is narrower than the upper.

Marty - I don't see a screen in Dustin's upper casing (hood extension), but I do agree it is the correct casing for a Quiet Line. The lower casing is definitely from the early 1x8/9 series.

Dustin - you're not gonna find the correct IH Cub Cadet yellow and white paint at your local hardware store, unless you have a very special store. If you have a Case/IH dealer close by you may be able to get it. Otherwise, I'd go to CC Specialties (linked in the colorful boxes at the top of the page). However, before you go painting up your tractor my recommendation would be to make certain everything is working good, especially things like the steering (not more than 1/16 play), the hydro control works good (doesn't jump), the front spindles and wheel bearings are in good shape, engine iso-mounts are good, etc. All these things would require some dis-assembly to inspect repair and it would be better if these things were done before the painting. I also noticed your dash plate was in kinda rough shape so I'm wondering what happened to it.
(And by the way, you mentioned an interest in lights. I've got the correct front headlight assembly and the tail light lenses and mounts for a Quiet Line. If you're interested you can PM me).

 

[lpalma]

Maybe you can find the missing parts and make it whole again as it need the right muffler and such for proper cooling...

 

[mgwin]

Harry,
I circled it in blue and have a red arrow pointed to it.
Here is the screen:

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Maybe you can find the missing parts and make it whole again as it need the right muffler and such for proper cooling...

That's the plan. Good to know that the stock muffler is better for cooling. Thanks!

 

[hydroharry]

Harry,
I circled it in blue and have a red arrow pointed to it.
Here is the screen:

Marty - you know I completely missed seeing that screen (upper grill insert). Thanks for pointing it out.

That's the plan. Good to know that the stock muffler is better for cooling. Thanks!

Dustin - you are missing several parts besides the muffler. You currently have a straight exhaust pipe coming out of the engine block. The original one would have been a sorta "S" shaped and the original muffler would just slip onto this and be held in place with a muffler clamp. There would also be a white metal "duct" between the muffler and the upper engine block cooling fins. There is also 2 very light steel metal parts that make up the muffler box and top. These parts attach to the white metal duct plate so the muffler is completely enclosed except on the front. Maybe others on here can post some pics of their Quiet Line units so you can see these parts a little better. You can also view them on the CCC parts look-up if you have figured out how to get to that page (takes alot of clicks to get there from the main Forum page). If you are going to pursue all these parts I'd also suggest you go for the 2 side panels which will enclose the engine on both sides (from the frame to the hood). You've probably already seen some pics that show these. If you do this you're also going to need the original air filter back plate and cover, and the rubber connector that goes between the flywheel shroud and the backing plate. Lots of things to bring it back to original. I'd honestly suggest using your unit several times to make sure things are in good shape before jumping to far into this.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,
Don't feel bad, I miss stuff all the time! And don't worry, it gets worse!

OK, Upon Harry's suggestion, and it's too dang hot to do anything else,(LOL!) I took some pics of the 1000 I have been working on for someone.
Here is a pic of the side panels along with the correct lower casing/grille housing. This style housing will be required for the side panels to fit correctly.
Notice the black decal in the groove that separates the top half from the lower half.

Here are two pics of the air filter housing and the rubber tube that connects the housing to the engine shroud. And part of the muffler housing on the front.
I also drew a pointer to the engine info at the bottom right of the air filter housing.

Here is a pic of the muffler housing looking at it from the right side (sitting on the tractor).
There will be a new shorter spark plug wire added soon. LOL! Remember, this is not my cub.
Also, notice the small offset on the lower grille housing for the side panels to sit on.

 

[Stu]

When I did a rebuild of my 1250 motor (.010 over bore, all new guts) the cast white metal piece of the muffler box was too busted up to use. I was not able to find a replacement within my budget. As it holds all the sheet metal that surrounds the muffler, and the muffler itself was holey, I removed it all, and cobbled on a cheap muffler. I have been running it this way for 3 years, mowing at full throttle for about 2 hours at a time. I run it without the body side panels. All the other motor tin is in place. Since the cooling airflow is already past the motor when it hits the muffler area I figure it’s ok, so far nothing has melted. Of course it’s ugly, but it works for me. Not to say that I wouldn’t make it right if I had the dough, but…

 

[1811Cub]

The correct 1250 air cleaner and muffler setup looks mighty similar to the pieces on my 1989 1050.

 

[PACub100]

The side panels make quite a difference. It's actually quite impressive. I noticed it while attaching the snowthrower in November. If you have cold hands, there's the place you wanna put them...
Even without the muffler box, since the muffler is ahead of the engine, one could mount a heat shield to the top of the lower housing to deflect the heat and airflow out and keep the headlights and wiring from getting too hot...

 

[hydroharry]

The correct 1250 air cleaner and muffler setup looks mighty similar to the pieces on my 1989 1050.

That's because it's a Kohler AQS engine. The 12hp is a K301AQS. Not sure if your 1050 has a Kohler K or a Magnum. If it's a K then it is a K241AQS. The air cleaner is a Kohler assembly. The duct on the back of the muffler box is also Kohler and I believe (but am not certain) the Muffler box itself is also Kohler. The Muffler itself is probably IH.

 

[1811Cub]

My 1050 has a Magnum 10hp.

 

[hydroharry]

My 1050 has a Magnum 10hp.

So, in looking at the parts list it looks like the Magnum uses some of the same air cleaner assembly used on the K series AQS engines. The air cleaner cover is the same but the backing plate has a slightly different part number. The rubber tube that connects the flywheel shroud and the air cleaner backing plate, is also the same.
The muffler duct backing is the same and the bottom of the muffler box is the same, but the top of the box is different, and the mufflers are different.

 

[Dustin Wilson]

Hey guys! I got a lot of sanding and painting done today. I’m so glad to be rid of the horrible color scheme!