Welder

[kide]

Lincoln builds good stuff (it's just not blue...) Hopefully that's not a big box store version only (check with your local welding supplier for what models they've got). The package looks great, you'll just need to buy a tank of gas and a hood.(I like 75/25 Argon/Co2, but a lot of guys use straight CO2)..
Edit: The HD is for Home Depot (doh!) I'd check on the 180C tougher drive, better electronics (variable voltage versus tapped).. If you can't swing it, the HD is still a good buy.

 

[nbartee]

Thanks for the info, Gerry. He advertises it to be new in box & there are several showing up this way so I wonder . Were these made special for sale at Home Depot?

 

[kide]

Norm:
That's what I was told a few years ago, checking for a friend. There are significant differences in construction, but you probably won't go wrong as an entry machine. Personally, I like full voltage control versus the 6 or so tapped positions the HD version will give you. In the end, if you can get "bacon frying", it's all good....

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - Glad to see you posting again, and his topic seems to be the only one you post at! I've had 'Puter problems" lately, actually Internet access problems. Darned wireless Broadband! You know any GOOD IT people that could help Verison get their act together?

I wasn't really poking fun at your SynchroWave. They're more of a production based machine. Company I used to work at had 6-7 ASME Certified welders welding heavy stainless steel fabrications 8-10 hrs a day 5-6 days a week with SW-350's. The Dynasty probably wouldn't do well in that environment.

FWIW, My M-M 185 has a stepped voltage control, six steps if I remember right. The chart inside the wire compartment & feed mechanism gives you suggested voltage & feed rates for different thicknesses of metal & diamter of welding wire & gas type. Like everything, there's pros & cons, the stepped or tapped voltage gives you consistent voltage for each position where an infinitely variable control may have variations. But you sacrifice the ability to fine tune the machine to the job. That's where Technique enters in, the "Weldor" adjusting to what the puddle is doing to get a good weld!

I remember the first time I was at a welding supply shop that had a little Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 set up for a demo, salesman had me try it. I couldn't even get it to lay a bead! It was all in the machine adjustments, I hadn't even seen the manual for the welder let alone read it.

Once you get a welder, the most important thing to do is PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Burn a tank of gas and spool of wire welding different thicknesses of steel and in different positions.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny,

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Once you get a welder, the most important thing to do is PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Burn a tank of gas and spool of wire welding different thicknesses of steel and in different positions.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">That must be why Art is so willing to weld stuff for me. All my projects are just practice for him.</font>

<font size="-1">Gerry, good to see you posting!</font>

 

[kide]

Denny and Kraiq (

)

I check around once in a while - still not the same as the old days...

Happy Holidays everyone!

 

[erice]

Sorry I don't post much BUT I want to bust on you guys a little,

. (Tanks) have big guns not the cylinders you all talk about. I work for a welding company and fill those tanks you talk of, lol. Years ago I had a little welder but upgraded to a Miller 210 and can say that I should have done that sooner as it will weld anything my old cubs can throw at it.

 

[rbeem]

Eric,
You're wrong, here is a picture of my set-up.

Have a great Christmas everyone!

 

[erice]

Rick, I want to come over to your place and see how that set up works for you lol. And Merry Christmas to you and everyone also.

 

[nbartee]

Well, after all the talk, I finally bought a mig welder. It's a Lincoln Pro Mig 180. I bought it on Ebay NIB, so hope everything is included.

Thanks to all of you for your help, open discussion, & advice. Love this forum!

 

[kide]

Norm:
Get the bacon "sizzle" down yet??

 

[nbartee]

Not yet, waiting for it to be delivered. I am anxious to try it out, though, but due to other things coming up, I probably won't get a chance till next week.

I love bacon!

 

[nbartee]

Got the welder, looks nice. Also bought a cart & a bottle of gas. Welded some thin stuff, hard to get sizzle, looks terrible but will hold. Need lots of practice. Need to adjust intensity of my helmet, can't see the "puddle"! Otherwise, I think I'm going to like it.

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - You should pretty much figure the first tank of gas & spool of wire will be used for "Practice".

Run beads different ways, pushing the bead and pulling a bead, then pracice butt welds with different thicknesses of steel, then lap joints.

Maybe even try some "out of position" welds, welding verticle. Then practice filling holes. Try welding material of different thicknesses together. And grind some welds down to the parent material to make sure the weld deposit is solid steel and that you got good penetration. I always check the back side of the weld to make sure it's cherry red just after the weld is done so I know I got good penetration.

GERRY - SON saw a couple welders listed on CL a week ago. A company that makes ultrasonic cleaners upgraded their welders and had a Synchrowave 250 for sale, air cooled torch, cart, $750; and the Hobart equivalent with water cooled torch, cart, etc for $250. He was late getting there with the cash after work and the Hobart was gone. Both were about 375# and 70 input amps. My Dynasty DX200 is about 40 pounds & runs on 40A 220V input convertible to run on 120V 20A input with reduced output.

Nice thing about the Synchrowave is you never have to worry about people wanting to "Borrow" Your welder.

 

[nbartee]

Got a question about filling holes in thin stuff. Do you feed extra metal into the arc using your other hand?

 

[dfrisk]

NORM - I don't, I just add weld metal to the edges until the hole is filled. Helps a lot to cool the area every pass, and use a copper or brass back up plate behind the weld. The weld metal won't stick to the copper plus it draws heat away from the weld.

If the part you're filling holes in is large and flat you have to watch for warping.

SON filled a lot of holes in the hood of the CC 70 that way. Where the inside cross brace was broke out we had to weld a patch in about 2 inches by 3 inches. I didn't have any scraps of steel the same thickness of the hood so used a slightly thicker piece. We warped the hood pretty good welding that in but got it straightened back out. It works better with thicker metal of course, I've got holes to fill in the frame and those should be easy.

 

[nbartee]

Dennis,

I understand what you're saying, thanks for the insight. My holes are .25" in the fenders and tunnel cover. Shouldn't have trouble with war page but I'm a novice and you never know.

 

[sblunier]

Norm,

Little tiny tacks at low heat.....one area, then another....lots of cooling time.

You'll be fine, just don't try to fill it all at once.

 

[nbartee]

Thanks guys, now I just need to round up some metal for practice...

 

[kide]

Norm:
The "Sizzle" is harder to achieve on very thin metal. I hope you're using thin wire (.023?). I used to use a wet rag around (not on) the weld spot to help wick the heat away also.

Dennis: Did he get the 250?


OT - Sorry I'm not on very often, still dealing with things. I did buy a different car ('08 SportTrac) and am now where we were in seasons past (hint - checking to see if the big boneyard of cubs is still there)... I've got my bike with me and some good friends are in the same park. Gonna be 80ish today