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'Tomcat' From the Beginning.
- Thread starter tsteinman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
'Upon closer Inspection'.. I'm not happy with 'rattle-can' splats after Coat #1. Question: Now what?? Primer was Spray-Max 2-part epoxy. Enamel is IHC enamel. Sand it?? Wipe it with Paint Thinner?? Wipe it with a Resin Rag?? I'm not a Ferrari painter...and it ain't a Ferrari. Locomotiveman Tom
mfrade
Well-known member
Tom, just my opinion of course but, it's a tractor.. leave the dust where it is and keep going forward. You won't notice it in a year from now.
jmho..
jmho..
Tom S.
Along with the chilly temps your painting in, I actually think that you finger is over lapping the spray nozzle a little to much.
If it were mine, I would 600 that thing, get one of those spray can attachments with the pistol grip and respray.
BUT!
I would take the paint inside the house, set it on a heat register and get it really warm before I sprayed any more.
Paint from Cub Cadet is notorious for crappy coverage, and the nozzles are about the poorest I've ever seen on rattle cans.
Use them once and you have to remove them and clean like you would a good gun.
CNH paint on the other hand covers extremely well and never has nozzle issues.
And buying CNH paint locally is usually cheaper than Cub paint.
Mike F.
If you'll look really close, you'll see that Tom's paint is way worse than just dust, and will really look nasty in the sun later on.
Here's what it really looks like Mike,
Along with the chilly temps your painting in, I actually think that you finger is over lapping the spray nozzle a little to much.
If it were mine, I would 600 that thing, get one of those spray can attachments with the pistol grip and respray.
BUT!
I would take the paint inside the house, set it on a heat register and get it really warm before I sprayed any more.
Paint from Cub Cadet is notorious for crappy coverage, and the nozzles are about the poorest I've ever seen on rattle cans.
Use them once and you have to remove them and clean like you would a good gun.
CNH paint on the other hand covers extremely well and never has nozzle issues.
And buying CNH paint locally is usually cheaper than Cub paint.
Mike F.
If you'll look really close, you'll see that Tom's paint is way worse than just dust, and will really look nasty in the sun later on.
Here's what it really looks like Mike,
Tom, If you have heat in your shop 24/7, just keep the paint stored on a shelf near the ceiling.
I have been rattle canning small parts the last few days also. I sandblast, then wipe with a cloth that I have sloshed a little thinner on, then shoot w/rustoleum primer. Let dry for an hour or so then do the color coat. I paint flat whenever possible, let set to tac coat then hang to avoid runs. Takes a little more time, but works well for me.
On another note, I used rustoleum bed spray liner for the foot treads, 2 coats, about 2 hoursapart, again flat, and they really look good.
I have been rattle canning small parts the last few days also. I sandblast, then wipe with a cloth that I have sloshed a little thinner on, then shoot w/rustoleum primer. Let dry for an hour or so then do the color coat. I paint flat whenever possible, let set to tac coat then hang to avoid runs. Takes a little more time, but works well for me.
On another note, I used rustoleum bed spray liner for the foot treads, 2 coats, about 2 hoursapart, again flat, and they really look good.
mfrade
Well-known member
Yes Charlie, your pic shows so much more. Looks like the tip was spitting blobs too.
Wet sand with 600 or 800 grit, take the gloss out of the surface and re-coat, warm the part and the paint before application, use a heat lamp if you have to!
Wet sand with 600 or 800 grit, take the gloss out of the surface and re-coat, warm the part and the paint before application, use a heat lamp if you have to!
I have been known to heat the metal with a hair dryer on occasion, LOL
Many years ago when I refurbished my QA42 it was a cold November and not having a heated garage I used a combination of a several 500 watt halogen work lights, a small "under desk" electric heater and a hair drier to preheat the metal before and during painting the parts with rattle cans. I think to this day that is one of, if not the best rattle can paint job I've done. I wish it still looked as good now nearly 16 years on but it's been used hard and doesn't look that bad. Certainly looks WAY better than it looked before I refurbished it.
TOMCAT was not a 'Parts Missing' machine. I have everything I need to get it back together; then new wiring harness and Rear lenses will do it. For now..I need my shop back, so TOMCAT will have to hibernate for a few weeks. Locomotiveman Tom
TOMCAT is back rolling again, Feb. 2016. A rough fit-up tells me not much needs altering or improving. Tear apart this week and re-assemble with new Wiring loom and better nuts/bolts and it should be good til Spring when rear wheels come off and Rear-end gets new fluid and filter, etc. Locomotiveman Tom
Tom S.
BIG mistake setting that tarp down tight to the ground man!
Stick something under both ends to raise the tarp off the ground so some air can circulate.
Your gonna have a real mess if you don't. Seen to many make that mistake.
BIG mistake setting that tarp down tight to the ground man!
Stick something under both ends to raise the tarp off the ground so some air can circulate.
Your gonna have a real mess if you don't. Seen to many make that mistake.
Tom-
I'm in total agreement with what Charlie says about the tarp being tight to the ground and actually noticed it right off. Even with no snow or rain it will remain wet unless it can breathe. I have way more cubs than barn space and I use a vinyl plastic strip for the "outdoor" cubs. It's very tough unlike poly plastic and I'm guessing about 6 mil.
I haven't heard you mention anything about whether your 149 creeps while in neutral or the shifter doesn't return to the "N" or not when the pedal is depressed. Once you get the seat pan off you will be able to see the trunion slot to determine what condition it is in. This is a part that almost always needs refurbishing on hydro cubs. The linkages controlling the pump will be a challenge at first to get adjusted correctly but well worth all efforts.
.
I'm in total agreement with what Charlie says about the tarp being tight to the ground and actually noticed it right off. Even with no snow or rain it will remain wet unless it can breathe. I have way more cubs than barn space and I use a vinyl plastic strip for the "outdoor" cubs. It's very tough unlike poly plastic and I'm guessing about 6 mil.
I haven't heard you mention anything about whether your 149 creeps while in neutral or the shifter doesn't return to the "N" or not when the pedal is depressed. Once you get the seat pan off you will be able to see the trunion slot to determine what condition it is in. This is a part that almost always needs refurbishing on hydro cubs. The linkages controlling the pump will be a challenge at first to get adjusted correctly but well worth all efforts.
.
The tarp was open on the West side. I had to protect it only til the Blizzard moved thru. I have to laugh at guys who 'Shrink Wrap' their boats. Then they open em' up in April to Black Mold. Whew!! Locomotiveman Tom
TOMCAT's Headlight Grill backing plate will be pinstriped with 1/8" metallic striping from the local AutoBody Supply Co. It's all coming along fine. Now for a nice Black knob for the Hydro-float handle. Gasoline tank is next redo job.
Saving every single nut/bolt in Zip-lock bags has been helpful for the rough re-assembly.
Saving every single nut/bolt in Zip-lock bags has been helpful for the rough re-assembly.
