The day finally came!

[rbeem]

Jim, are you needing more power or wanting the smoke? Did you end up keeping that straight pipe on it?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Just some Saturday morning thoughts here. After the valves out of adjustment and using ether.... If you desire more power then I believe that I'd take it back to the Kubota dealer. It'll be done right the first time.

 

[persoonj]

Dealer probably will not touch it. Initial adjustment is done by Kubota when the engine is assembled. Tamper proof cap is pinched on at the factory. Turning the screw "out" increases tension on governor spring, giving it a little more at full fuel. Naturally aspirated engine I would not go over 3/4 of a turn. Turboed engines you can go much more.

 

[mhomrighausen]

From what the old timer mechanics always told me. "If you want to set a diesel engine up for more power go no more than 22% of it's rated horsepower and you'll still be safe operating it. Any higher and you'll begin to create troubles." I.E. more heat, wear, etc.

 

[nbextermueller]

22% seems like an odd percentage to pick out. As if 23% would kill it but 21 just isn't enough... I know, you have to draw a line somewhere.

 

[mhomrighausen]

I don't know where or how they came up with that. I do know of a guy years ago that had his 966 "turned" into a 1066. Everything but the bigger radiator. On the warm days he actually had to shift down to a lower gear or the tractor would overheat. One thing with my 782D is I keep the radiator clean at all times. I remember some saying the radiators seem small for these engines. I do recall that turning up more than the 22% and not installing something like a turbo charger and bigger radiator then you're just wasting fuel. Years back at a local tractor pull, a mechanic told the young man driving his Dad's 5088 to just take off this cover and remove the spring. He said then you're dumping all the fuel that tractor can take and you'll be putting out as much horse as you can without adding a turbo. Man... did that 5088 smoke when pulling. A classmate's Dad purchased a new 1466 and the fuel pump stuck wide open. Dealer was quick to pick the tractor up and replace the fuel pump. The tractor dyno'd 198 hp and the dealer said the engine wouldn't take that very long. so... you have me on where they came up with the 22% figure.

 

[sblunier]

There are a lot of 1466's out there with 175-200hp.....

 

[jharder]

Your right about that Steve I farm with one that pushing over 200. I don't know how long it will last but it is fun to run. We have a White 6-18s plow it will pull in high 1st lever forward and it just runs with it.
Rick yes I did put the pipe back on it.

 

[sblunier]

Our 1486 hasn't been on the dyno since it had the pump rebuilt. It was dead nuts on from the factory at 145-150hp, but now it feels much more like 175-180hp on the "butt dyno".....noticeable bump in power.

You can have the power, just don't go nuts with it, weighting up the tractor more and shifting up gears.....and even then the 436 will probably hack it a lot better than the 4 speed rear end will......

Old joke/statement: When a JD guy wanted to do more plowing, he went to the dealer, traded for a bigger tractor and plow and went back to the field....When the IH farmer wanted to do the same, he bought a bigger plow and turned up his existing tractor!!!!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Steve B.

It does seem true with the Greenie guys trading a tractor. And you're right about the rear ends not being able to take the extra power.

 

[sblunier]

6-18"s High 1st stick ahead is getting it done!!!!

 

[dfrisk]

There's pictures in some of the books on FARMALL tractors of the chassis dyno that was way down on the west end of the plant. The #2 guy in QA told me that they would ship any 1586 that dyno'd less than 225 HP, above that and they adjusted the pump down. We never discussed any other models.

One thing IH never had a problem with was making Horse power. Keeping the transmission and rear end together behind all that HP was a challenge?

The two young guys who bought the 320 acres across the road from the house I grew up in tried pulling a 6-16 on-land hitch plow with one of their 4020 pulling tractors. Had plenty of HP but a REAL short fuse, 200 to farm with, had to run 5th gear and watch how much bite the four 23.1x34 tires got, too much bite equalled instant broken transmission parts. I went snooping late one evening with my dirt bike when they had been plowing some small clay hills and they were only plowing 3-4 inches deep! The BTO that farmed the place the 2-3 years prior plowed 8-9 inches deep with 6-16's behind his 1206.

 

[mhomrighausen]

The 966 that my Mom bought new in 1972 from the factory dyno'd at 108 hp. She bought a new four - eighteen IH 710 plow and we pulled it easily with no duals in first high side at seven inches deep. If I recall correctly in the spring of 1985 with around 5500 hours my youngest brother was pulling the Massey Ferguson fourteen foot disc in plowed ground when the right wheel locked up. The bearing went out. The tractor had oil changes every 90-100 hours and yearly transmission oil changes at the dealer. They traded it for a new Deutz.

My Dad's 1946 FARMALL H that was made into a Super H engine-wise had the same side wheel bearing go out. I miss both of those tractors.

 

[digger]

Man, Talking about hijacking a thread!

 

[jharder]

I am getting ready to build a field cultivator out of a old cultimulcher we cut up. My question is how big would be to big to pull with my 782d? I will be running duals if need be and want it to at least cover the tire tracks. I will make a pull type. open to suggestions thanks Jim

 

[mhomrighausen]

JIm H. Would you be able to post some pictures of the cultimulcher so we have an idea of what you have to work with?

Charlie P.