Steering Wheel Removal

[jdrong]

jack casey, "In 1967, IH may have added something that bonded wheel to shaft" What would make you think that? Just curious. If that were a possibility, then a little heat may be required

 

[Jamocha]

echoing dave’s question: why remove the steering wheel? what is the objective?
respectfully,
-C3

The dash needs repaired/replaced and being able to remove that would make it much easier to do a proper job. Also it needs new decals

jack casey, "In 1967, IH may have added something that bonded wheel to shaft" What would make you think that? Just curious. If that were a possibility, then a little heat may be required

Tried heat, but it was starting to soften the steering wheel

 

[Jamocha]

echoing dave’s question: why remove the steering wheel? what is the objective?
respectfully,
-C3

I need to repair or replace the dash piece. Being able to remove it would make doing a proper repair job much easier

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a few ideas from the archives:

By Tom Abbott (Tabbott) on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 11:00 am:

Hi, Thought you guys might like to see yet another way to pull the steering wheel, I used this on my 1450.

I have pullers, but no bearing separator to back up the wheel, so.....
I made this from an 8" piece of hard pine 2 X 4.
It was easy as pie, though if you had no woodworking tools, it might be hard.

I just bored an 1 3/4" hole in the center face of the 2 X 4 ( forstner bit), and then flipped it and drilled 2 - 3/8" holes cross wise. Then I split the block on my bandsaw. I just bolted it together around the steering column, and put the puller to it.
Since I had previously sprayed some Kroil on the column, it just took tightening the puller just a little bit and it popped right off. I used a 2 jaw puller, but a balancer puller , with long bolts going through the face of the block, would work also.

By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 12:05 pm:

Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to make a puller out of a chunk of hardwood to use with a harmonic balancer puller. I wish I would have done that first. It came off very easily with this. The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red, for reasons I'll never understand, and then put the steering wheel on. That kept my penetrant from getting in there.

 

[jack casey]

jack casey, "In 1967, IH may have added something that bonded wheel to shaft" What would make you think that? Just curious. If that were a possibility, then a little heat may be required

jdrong, I'm just thinking out loud. To remove the 'bonded' piece I trusted chisels more than the heat gun, it did not come off easily but also did not cling to threads. These posts speak to a problem. Lewis and I have the answer to the problem....cut the thing off. And replace the wheel with something that fits the hand better like I did. Dont'cha just love this stuff?
Cheers, Jack

 

[Jamocha]

Okay so upon further investigation, my friend helping

jdrong, I'm just thinking out loud. To remove the 'bonded' piece I trusted chisels more than the heat gun, it did not come off easily but also did not cling to threads. These posts speak to a problem. Lewis and I have the answer to the problem....cut the thing off. And replace the wheel with something that fits the hand better like I did. Dont'cha just love this stuff?
Cheers, Jack

Leaning heavy on the cut the wheel off method. I have another wheel I could put on it so that seems to be the answer

 

[mgonitzke]

It's not "bonded" at the factory...there is a taper to the shaft under the splined portion, and a mating taper on the hub of the wheel. That in and of itself can be enough of a challenge to break loose if the nut was over-torqued, and then add some rust on top of that if the tractor spent time outside with no steering wheel cap installed.

 

[jack casey]

Okay so upon further investigation, my friend helping

Leaning heavy on the cut the wheel off method. I have another wheel I could put on it so that seems to be the answer

Sure you know this but cut into the hub 2-3 times with blade stopping just before hitting shaft. Wiggle chisel into cuts and go from there. As for 'bonding' at the factory, a tech might have used some super glue that kept steering wheel straight during assembly....the piece I chiseled did not come away easily....one of the strange episodes in my mechanical life.
Enuf said, Jack

 

[mgonitzke]

As for 'bonding' at the factory, a tech might have used some super glue that kept steering wheel straight during assembly

Nonsense. The splines keep the steering wheel clocked upon installation.

 

[dschwandt]

It's a close fit on a splined shaft, nothing more, nothing less.

 

[dschwandt]

If you haven't already, You're gonna screw around and wreck the damn wheel and the shaft.
Good luck at this point is all I can say

 

[jdrong]

If you haven't already, You're gonna screw around and wreck the damn wheel and the shaft.
Good luck at this point is all I can say

I agree! I have more to say but, I should just say " good luck at this point" also.

 

[dsarow]

Late to the party,I can't understand why the hardwood under the wheel,with the puller didn't get the job done

 

[jack casey]

Nonsense. The splines keep the steering wheel clocked upon installation.

You don't get it. It is offensive to use the word 'nonsense' in answering my post. Using my experience to just throw out ideas and help those with the wheel removal problem, lots of guys. From the beginning our Cubs are built to a high standard and yet, we need a saber saw, air hammer and God knows what else to remove the steering wheel. It's silly! Was hoping some IH techs from the 60s-70s would post something useful.
JJC

 

[mpatterson]

What I use... think it was @mgonitzke who put me onto this design?

 

[mgonitzke]

You don't get it. It is offensive to use the word 'nonsense' in answering my post. Using my experience to just throw out ideas and help those with the wheel removal problem, lots of guys. From the beginning our Cubs are built to a high standard and yet, we need a saber saw, air hammer and God knows what else to remove the steering wheel. It's silly! Was hoping some IH techs from the 60s-70s would post something useful.
JJC

You are proposing theories with no basis in fact or logic. That is essentially the definition of 'nonsense'. If that offends you, perhaps the internet is not for you.

The design of the interface between the steering wheel and shaft is not unique to Cub Cadets, nor are challenges like trying to separate them after 50+ years out in the elements. This is the nature of working on old equipment, regardless of brand/type of equipment/etc.

This has been a solved problem for 20+ years. Choices are:

1. Use bearing separator/homemade tool and harmonic balancer puller to remove wheel (easiest way and works 100% of the time in my experience)
2. Thread a 5/8" fine thread nut on partway, thread a bolt into that, and hit it with a BFH while sitting on the seat prying up on the wheel with your knees (works most of the time, will damage the lower bearing race if it doesn't pop right off)
3. Same as 2. with an air hammer instead, same caveat for bearing damage
4. Cut off hub of steering wheel as a last resort

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's what the steering shaft looks like inside/under the steering wheel:

 

[TracyReynolds]

"The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red,..." Is that red paint or red Loctite? Red Loctite can only be undone with heat.

 

[jdrong]

In the past I have run across rusted and even a steering wheel that was "tack" welded on; I did not cut any of them off. Cutting the steering wheel off may seem like the only way sometimes but it can cause more problems than it solves.