Service recommendation for k241AS

[cub1961]

i have a '64 100 that i got last fall and it needs a bit of maintenance. it runs pretty good but is blowing carbon out around the front of the head so a head gasket is on my list. it appears to have been well maintained as the grease fittings appear to be recently serviced, it has new belts and new blades and is in good original condition with a rattle can touch-up at some point in its life. as i said it runs pretty good but kind of "putts" when it is not under load like it is missing a little. i.e. if i am going downhill at high throttle. when going up hill or using the deck it does not do this. i thought maybe bad gas but after new gas and some seafoam it still does it. i'm not much of a mechanic but have done a bit. enough to be dangerous i guess.

on the plan

new head gasket (cc specialities)
motor oil change
air filter clean/change
plug
all grease fittings

maybe's
points
coil ( the one that is on it looks like it has gotten hot )
rear oil change
coil/plug wire

questions
any good pointers on head gasket replacement?
any recommendations on a currently available torque wrench that won't break the bank? harbor freight? lowes, etc?
oil type and weight
rear end oil type and weight and pointers on changing it?
should i do the points and coil or wait for them to fail?

thanks

 

[1811Cub]

Make sure your head surface is perfectly flat. Also torque to spec in stages, and in the specific pattern. Engine oil needs to be SAE30. I would do points now, ensuring the rubbing button, and the cover seal are in good condition. Only use genuine Kohler parts.

 

[Jay Fetters]

Any of the budget torque wrenches are gonna be accurate enoughish. Harbor freight torque wrenches tend to be fairly ok in the higher range of the wrench, but I know of a few that won't click on the lower end. If I were buying one at harbor, I'd get the beam type. Other "higher end" big box stores I would be comfortable with a clicker type. Or, take out a bank loan and see your friendly neighborhood snap on dealer! Parts stores tend to have pretty good torque wrenches for under $50 as well. Like auto zone, advance auto, pep boys, those places...

 

[jkoenig]

Have you considered Tekton, a Grand Rapids based tool producer? Their stuff seems pretty decent.

 

[dschwandt]

I use 30 weight as well in my gear drive transmissions.

 

[mgonitzke]

100 Owner's Manual
100 Service Manual
Kohler K-series Service Manual
Head Gasket Replacement

If you replace the points, you may find this helpful for setting the timing: K-series static timing

I'd add a carb kit to your list. Here's how to rebuild the carb: Kohler Carb Rebuild

You will see in the owners manual that either Hytran or SAE 30 motor oil are acceptable in the rearend. I prefer Hytran since it seems to cling to everything a bit better than most motor oils, and will deal with slight amounts of water intrusion.

While you have the head off, I would pull the intake and exhaust valves, make sure they aren't worn, and clean off the carbon buildup, lap them, and reset the lash. All of this is in the engine service manual I linked to. Be sure to retorque the head after the first 30 minutes run time after replacing the gasket.

 

[cub1961]

thanks all. i will be ordering some parts this week. i also may be getting an old 70 this weekend that runs but has seen better days. its a good price and comes with plow and deck. may look at remotoring it to a 10hp.

 

[mgwin]

Wow! Where are you getting all these fine tractors so fast? It would take years to find a decent priced 70 and 100 around here with attachments!
If it is an original motor in the 70, I would keep it in it. You will be surprised how much torque and pull that 7hp will have, once fixed up.

 

[cub1961]

those old round fenders are hard to come by in this area too. i got lucky and found my 100 right around the corner but the 70 is about an hour away. the 70 looks original to a fault. smokes, leaks, etc and has a really bad blue paint job on it. but the metal is straight and it has factory headlights along with some shadetree mechanic special mods. but the guy said he has had it for 30 years and changes oil regularly and only used it to plow a little driveway mostly. price is right. i would be afraid to tear into the motor too much at this point with my knowledge level. if i end up with it i will limp it along for a while and keep an eye out for another motor to play with. i have another 10hp that has what seems to be a busted rod but i am not sure yet. valves open but piston doesn't move. hopefully the block is not cracked. can't see anything from the outside. once i do the head gasket, etc on the 100 i will tear into that. plus i have 2 non-cubs and a farmall H i am working on when time allows. no shortage of projects.

 

[Greg Riutzel]

For small engine service you can't go wrong with a beam torque wrench. I've only used the old SK or Proto so I can't speak to modern names out there. They're accurate and no moving parts to fail or go out of calibration and way less expensive. If it was me I would find a well cared for SK, Proto, Sturdivent, etc. on eBay.

 

[cub1961]

do you use anti-seize on the head bolts or just a little oil?

 

[dschwandt]

Service manual says just a bit of oil is all

 

[mgonitzke]

I've always used anti-seize. It'll work just fine too, and you might find the bolts easier to remove next time you are in there.

 

[rrschmitt]

Ditto what Matt said on the Never-seize compound.

 

[cub1961]

thanks. i use anti-seize on almost every bolt anymore. does seem to make a difference.

another question, the head gasket replacement procedure that matt posted above references chasing the threads. do you just use a tap for that or is there a special tool for it?

 

[mgwin]

A regular tap should be fine to clean up the threads.

 

[Greg Riutzel]

You're much safer with a thread chaser. They'll realign distorted threads, such as can happen at the top of a hole, without cutting new metal. Many times I'll find ridges at the top of holes from slightly pulled threads, just wear and tear during assembly. Most holes I will put a very slight counter sink on the top so there's no interference during gasket crush when torquing down. That little extra detail has also prevented a lot of oil weepage on sumps and oil pans.

When using slick-ums other than oil on bolt threads, reduce torque 15-20%. Most of the specified torque accounts for thread friction; so it can be too easy to over torque the aluminum head.

 

[cub1961]

i dug through the kohler service manual and didn't find the head bolt size. for a thread chaser i was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-972-F...=UTF8&qid=1324430461&sr=8-1&tag=practforum-20
not sure if it has the right size or not.

 

[dschwandt]

3/8 x 16
Would not be in the service manual but in the parts book
K301

• Ref:
  66
  KH-237670
  Head, Cylinder | (Replaces IH-393608-R2 by also ordering baffle KH-237679, baffle KH-237677,
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Ref:
  IH-20248-R1
  Screw, 3/8-16 X 2-1/4 C-Z Hex Hd Mach

 

[cub1961]

is it the same for the k241?