Sand Blasting setup

[Richard Vollman]

I have three GTs in the queue for restoration and a couple older briggs. I have never sand blasted at home. I have always hired out. I was debating of getting a setup for home use. I want to do small items up to frames and hoods for rust and paint removal. Small items seem easy with a blast cabinet setup. I am not sure for the larger items I do outside. Any recommendations? I normally use my electrolysis setup for rust removal but thought I may go the sand blaster route.

 

[gary noblit]

Rick,I too am going to an outside setup for the summer.I'm thinking a small canvas type garage to enclose work items but it will be seriously dusty inside.My thoughts go to compressor volume,will it push enough media to do a good job?There are several opinions on what is the best media among members,some of that is relative to finish desired.. for what it's worth ,some dash surrounds are fiberglass and can be eaten up by blasting...some of the original wiring will come apart quickly as well...experience is the best teacher...

 

[Richard Vollman]

Gary, Thanks for the insight. I am also going to setup outside away from other projects. I do need a larger compressor which I will be getting soon. I do like electrolysis and I can adapt it to any side of metal item but blasting would be quicker for some items. I have been reading everyone's comments on medium to use. Should be fun either way!

 

[mgonitzke]

I would not sandblast an assembled engine, transaxle, or any other non-ferrous parts. Aluminum parts can be blasted with glass beads. Electrolysis is still my go-to for most ferrous metal cleaning. It does take longer, but you can hook everything up and walk away for awhile, leaving time to do other things while it works.

 

[Richard Vollman]

Yep. I am looking to open up how I do things. I like Electrolysis because you can build a tank of any size hook up and walk away. I have used to clean a trailer frame by stacking boards into a square and linking with plastic to make a temp tank. I used rebar as sacrificial anode with plastic clips so it does not ground out and slide inside the trailer frame tubing to de-rust inside. I stick to lower amperage so not as fast but works great and is safe. I guess if it is good enough for museums on a thousand year old item its good enough for a 50 yr old tractor. Molasses works great too but takes looonnnng time

 

[mwmacdonald]

2 cents from someone who doesn't know much about the topic. Any scrap yards around you. Maybe pick up some rusty old junk to practice on. That way you can figure out techniques without ruining anything

 

[Doug Rusk]

No experience here but have read many articles that caution to use the appropriate media so as not to damage delicate parts. Sheet metal can be warped with sand. You probably already know this but worth mentioning.

At one time I believe baking soda or some such was being used in the auto restoration field to strip car bodies without damaging glass, wiring and trim. I don't know if that is still the trend or not. There are other things too such as walnut shells, glass beads as mentioned ect.

 

[Richard Vollman]

I have been reading allot about this and have seen this to be true. I will double check everything prior to blasting.

 

[dmmiller]

You will need a compressor with more volume (cfm) than what the manufacturer claims for the blasting equipment. As the blasting tip wears, more volume is required. TP Tools carries blasting cabinets and blasting media, tptools.com. Brut manufacturing, brutmfg.com, carries blasting equipment for use outdoors.

Another important item that will be needed for outdoor blasting is a good quality dual cartridge respirator.

 

[HKCooper44]

Just an idea, but if you get a blasting cabinet, get one a bit larger than you're considering....you'll be glad you did. As for the larger items, take them where you've been taking your parts . As for your cabinet, put a surround about it....maybe plastic curtains....because no matter what, you'll be getting sand and dust everywhere!

 

[dschwandt]

No matter how you look at it, sandblasting sucks.
I went the cabinet route and found when you get a bit of moisture in the system and sand won't suck up from the bottom of the cabinet.
I may not have had enough air pressure.
You need a LOT that is constant, my new compressor is much bigger but I have not blasted with it yet.
IT's tough to see what you are doing after about the 1st 2 minutes and have to grope around to find the parts. Much better if you can wheel the whole rig outside and have the sun shining through the window.
Hooking your shop vac up to the cabinet helps a bit.
I have gotten to the point where I seldom use mine much and hate the thought of using it at all if/when i should need it.

Good luck!

 

[Richard Vollman]

Well everyone has good points. My new work area is waiting for electrical to get installed so I have some time. Maybe I will stick to electrolysis, wire brushes, paint removers, and sandpaper. I am not in a rush on my projects. I enjoy the restoration process whether it is a car, tractor, fishing reel or airgun. My biggest issue is getting rid of the projects when their complete. I need to keep some.

 

[gary noblit]

Rick,look at it this way,you're saving some good parts of history..A lot of us really appreciate that concept..

 

[Curt Doles]

I bought my first sandblaster 30 years ago. Both the compressor and blasting units were Campbell Hausfield.
The first Compressor was a 20 gallon 90 PSI 4CFM. I did refurb a 149 and blasted a number of non-sensitive parts, It worked OK. Great on lawn furniture, not so great on painted wood. About 10 years ago I picked up a 60 gallon Porter Cable, 165 PSI and 10 CFM, it obviously was a much better unit for blasting. I bought the unit on Craigslist, the guy selling worked for a company that serviced banks, It's what they use for the tube system, must have a well soundproofed room.

The PSI and volume changes really improved performance, I blast outside, 100 ft from the house. I wear a clear face mask.
Well suited for some jobs, not all. On painted wood it removes softer material, makes the grain 3d'ish. Not good for quality furniture.

Curt