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Art,

I bought 3ea 2x8x8' Southern Yellow pine boards. cut 2ea at 6' and used the remainder to make cribbing that matched the contour of the metal ramps to distribute the load. Screwed the whole stack together and added a 2x4 to the end as a bump stop. Now I can use them for car/truck/whatever and the long angle keeps the ramps from sliding and makes them 200% safer to use since you drive up gradually until you hit the bump stop....no big lurch "over the hump" and quick grabbing of the brakes......

$25 fix.
 
Kirk,
Nice set of ramps.


Back in the day, Dad used to use the 2X6 trick with success. Of course, the slab we used 'em on and changed the oil on was outside the garage on the approach. It had some texture to it to cut down on wet/ice slippage and worked great with the ramps. As others suggested, the carpet or rubber ideas would work great.
 
My 2 cents:

Depending on the thickness of your concrete floor, drill a 1/2 inch diameter hole in the concrete and insert an upside-down j-shaped steel pin through the hole in the start of the ramp and into the hole in the concrete. Do for both ramps Worked for me but my ramp have a cross bar in front and my pin holds the cross bar.

Alternatively, a long piece of belting, long enough to go from the top of the ramp to under the rear wheels. Rear wheels to be on top of the belting when the front wheels starts climbing the ramp. One for each side. Rolled up belting can be stored under the ramps.
 
Here is how I stopped them the other day for an oil change.


288462.jpg


288463.jpg
 
I place cardboard under the drive-on ramps when using on concrete. No slips at all, easy as pie...like down town! It needs to cover the whole area of the ramp to work, and a 3+ over hang is best!
 

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