PTO clutch bearing question?

[Allenpatterson]

I am struggling to get the pto clutch bearing mounted straight and flush with the end of the crankshaft on my 129. When I tap the lock collar counter clockwise (direction of engine rotation) to tighten the bearing on it doesn't stay straight on the crankshaft and gets crooked causing the pto clutch to wobble and not fully disengage. Does anyone know what could be going on here? Is it possible the crankshaft is worn where the bearing and lock collar sit preventing the bearing and collar from fitting correctly? Is it even possible that the old bearing could have worn the crank down? It's a brand new bearing and lock collar ordered from CCS along with a clutch I recently rebuilt also. Not a huge deal right now since I can use the blade instead of the snow thrower on it but I would like to get this solved by spring so I can use the tractor again for a backup mower and for mowing the field edge's and keeping them clean.

 

[mgonitzke]

Crankshaft is worn. If it fits that bad, the wear should be quite visible. The bearing race is hard, the crank is not, so if it were to have been run a long time loose, it definitely could have worn the crank.

 

[Allenpatterson]

That's what I was afraid of I take it the crankshaft should be the same diameter all the way out to the end where the bearing sits and not a little smaller than where the starter generator pulley sits? Mine is smaller by a little bit and at first I thought maybe it was just machined that way but now I'm guessing it's probably from wear and that's why the bearing sits crooked once tightened on the shaft. Looks like this tractor is probably going to need a new crank or donor engine or retire it to just blade and towing duty since the PTO is useless wobbling like that.

 

[digger]

I am struggling to get the pto clutch bearing mounted straight and flush with the end of the crankshaft on my 129. When I tap the lock collar counter clockwise (direction of engine rotation) to tighten the bearing on it doesn't stay straight on the crankshaft and gets crooked causing the pto clutch to wobble and not fully disengage. Does anyone know what could be going on here? Is it possible the crankshaft is worn where the bearing and lock collar sit preventing the bearing and collar from fitting correctly? Is it even possible that the old bearing could have worn the crank down? It's a brand new bearing and lock collar ordered from CCS along with a clutch I recently rebuilt also. Not a huge deal right now since I can use the blade instead of the snow thrower on it but I would like to get this solved by spring so I can use the tractor again for a backup mower and for mowing the field edge's and keeping them clean.

Get some emery cloth or a good flat file the same width as the bearing/collar. Fire it up and clean things up. Then shim it up back to stock diameter and let'r eat!

 

[Allenpatterson]

Get some emery cloth or a good flat file the same width as the bearing/collar. Fire it up and clean things up. Then shim it up back to stock diameter and let'r eat!

I will do that, good thinking and thank you for the suggestion! What would the best material be to use for my shim?

 

[digger]

I will do that, good thinking and thank you for the suggestion! What would the best material be to use for my shim?

Any good steel shim stock will work or even a shim bushing sleeve. McMaster-Carr or MSC sell'um. I did one 15 years ago and it's still going strong.

 

[Allenpatterson]

I'll do my best to make that work. I probably should have picked a different tractor to be honest after putting all this time and money into the 129. I bought the tractor and deck and qa42 snow thrower together for a very reasonable price. Then started fixing all the issues that happened to arise over the summer and I'm still at it. All started with replacing the governor gear and most recently installed aftermarket LED lights and hydraulic lift and ported pump from a 1450 parts tractor I picked up. A few decent looking 1450's have been popping up for sale within a couple hour drive lately so now I'm thinking I should have just picked up a good quiet line machine instead with all the options already on it that I'm working on adding to the 129 even though I prefer the looks of the 1X8/1X9 series. I don't mind the idea of a nice 1450/1650 and having an electric clutch on the quiet lines and replacing the motor mounts or do the solid mounts. Is the extra 2 horsepower of the k321 a huge improvement/advantage or night and day difference over my 12 horse k301?


(picture of the 1971 129 I've been working on)

 

[hydroharry]

Get some emery cloth or a good flat file the same width as the bearing/collar. Fire it up and clean things up. Then shim it up back to stock diameter and let'r eat!

Charlie - I may be missing something here. How do you make sure the crankshaft doesn't rotate inside the shim? Is it just tight friction fit that makes it work?

 

[Allenpatterson]

Charlie - I may be missing something here. How do you make sure the crankshaft doesn't rotate inside the shim? Is it just tight friction fit that makes it work?

I was wondering the same thing but if Charlie says it worked I bet it can be done!

 

[snicklas]

My guess is the green Locktite Bearing Retainer stuff...... the stuff that glues bearing races in so they don't spin.....

 

[Allenpatterson]

My guess is the green Locktite Bearing Retainer stuff...... the stuff that glues bearing races in so they don't spin.....

I think I better pick some of that up too, good idea!

 

[digger]

My guess is the green Locktite Bearing Retainer stuff...... the stuff that glues bearing races in so they don't spin.....

I think I just just red locktite or super glue. Been to long ago!

 

[hydroharry]

I think I just just red locktite or super glue. Been to long ago!

Charlie - you're the best. You should add this to your tag line "You've got questions? We've got answers."

 

[Allenpatterson]

Thank you again to you guys for the suggestions of shimming the pto clutch bearing and using the green sleeve retainer loctite to fix my 129. Just did it last night and letting it sit and cure right now. I ended up sacrificing a feeler gauge to make my shim and it worked quite well. Next step will be to clean the threads out on the clutch I rebuilt before installing it and the set screws to lock it to the bearing.