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Points cleaning?

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I must be bless ! I stored the 1000 outside under a tarp . Never had a points issue starting that tractor. Now I used Kohler points in it . I use to change the points every pulling season. Wether it needed it that’s was my policy.
i also used the Kohler coil. I have had points come engine over haul kits the were so bad they would not close all the way. Never figured it out why but ,that’s another reason to use the Kohler s points I think.
hope this problem gets resolved.
 
I appreciate the kind words and the information on use of my ignition products, these being the PointSaver and Trandenser. Like with any product, there are always trade-offs in using a transistorized. breaker-point-triggered ignition system. To make the points last, current on these systems is reduced from 2A to around 150mA...the points are just a trigger for a transistor which handles the main current load. This makes ignition timing more precise, more ignition energy is available at the coil due to elimination of the condenser and more rapid switching. The down side is that points must be clean and protected against contamination, moisture induced oxidation, etc. If you have a tractor that's stored in a high humidity environment, I recommend NOT to use my products due to the issues that Kendal mentions. Having to clean points every time you use the tractor is no fun.
 
i read this postings. i wonder... one of them lil moisture packets tucked inside of the points cover under the points. if it would keep the moisture out.. i dont think it would interfer with them if keep on the bottom..
 
moisture packets have a life unless they're allowed to "dewater" as in an oven and mostly they're only effective in closed containers such as shipping packets/boxes for a given time. This year will be my Cub's 1st wintering in the barn after the overhaul and numerous repairs last summer. Western Oregon is famous for wetness and particularly the warm Chinooks that blow in after a cold spell. For example one week or more it's below 32* and in one day a warm moist front (we call a Chinook) moves in and it's +40 to 50*. Everything metal, paint cans to cars, sweats even under covers unless there's some air movement. All my parts have been specifically OEM either Kohler for the engine and Cub vendors for everything else. I haven't run it since September until a week ago for clean up chores and so far it's all good to go. I keep a car cover over mine because of neighborhood toms that have piss'n matches and sometimes the barn is open for a day. I keep a battery tender out there for various machines so I'll see how it goes.
 
Well. Alrighty then. I’m a reckoning that I’m going to have to pop the points cover off every so often and clean the contacts. I have one of the Kirk Transdensers, but have not installed it. I bought it a couple of years or so back. With what Mr Kirk has said on the subject. I expect that I won’t be using it. Thanks for all the good answers and insights. It’s nice to be among those who know what they are talking about and how to discuss topics like adults. I’ve sold all my Cub stuff off with the exception of the my 126. Mechanically it’s great. I didn’t repaint it. I prefer the original patina look for what ever reason. The 126 is a tool, equipped with what I wanted for one main job. Pushing snow.
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Hey John, Whatcha got on that good looking 126 for front tires?
 
In reading these post a thought came to mind. The moisture that is corroding the points inside a building where the air is still seems to be similar to how fog forms when hot meets cold and the air is still. When the wind picks up the fog goes away. If air were circulating all the time would condensation form? Maybe a small fan either plugged into the battery tender or plugged into house current and blowing across the tractor or even just the area of the points would keep condensation from forming? May even help with condensation forming in the fuel system? Just a thought.
 
I have been using one of Mr Kirk's little do-daddys for several years now down here in Texas where there is no snow (for the most part), and my 128 sits under a carport. My experience is the points won't fire without cleaning them after sitting unused from about December to March. I probably use it often from March to July, and again from October to December. It is quite dry here in the summer months. Just cleaning them once a year does not bother me. I am sure if I sealed the cover better it would help. I love the little do-daddy. Points still look new.
 
In reading these post a thought came to mind. The moisture that is corroding the points inside a building where the air is still seems to be similar to how fog forms when hot meets cold and the air is still. When the wind picks up the fog goes away. If air were circulating all the time would condensation form? Maybe a small fan either plugged into the battery tender or plugged into house current and blowing across the tractor or even just the area of the points would keep condensation from forming? May even help with condensation forming in the fuel system? Just a thought.
I think a fan would help. I have a steel shed. I took one of those potable garage frames and screwed steel panels to it. Both the ends are wide open and I get condensation dripping off the roof in the morning. My equipment does get 'moldy' looking. I can't believe it happens with both ends open.
 
When I was looking for a new place, I made shure it had a garage made of wood.. Wood buildings will wick the moisture out of the air and keeps the humidity level down.. However a concrete floor when it gets cold in the winter and then we have a warm spell will pull moisture out of the air so I will leave the garage door open thru the day to let air move around inside and so far everything stays dry.. My garage is unheated if I am not working in it..
 
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