New with First Cub

[jonrick]

Hi everyone,

New here with my first cc 1450. I have a fair bit of experience with the farmall letter series tractors and am now discovering the awesome world of cub cadets. I bought my 1450 to haul stuff around our cow pasture and plan on slowly doing a mechanical restore/heavy tune-up as I have a little spare cash.

 

[RAllison]

Welcome to the forum, awesome machine to start with!

 

[jonrick]

Welcome to the forum, awesome machine to start with!

Thank you!

 

[Jay Fetters]

Welcome aboard!!! The quitelines are my personal favorite cubs. Yours appears to have the front hydraulics. And also appears to be in very good condition cosmetically.

 

[jonrick]

Welcome aboard!!! The quitelines are my personal favorite cubs. Yours appears to have the front hydraulics. And also appears to be in very good condition cosmetically.

Thanks! I honestly had no idea what to look for when I went and got it beyond generic engine/mechanical knowledge. The hydraulic system so far seems to work really well so I'm pleased. Although I think I have discovered a head gasket leak. The two giant dogs in the background seem to like it as well.

 

[Lucas Powell]

Hi everyone,

New here with my first cc 1450. I have a fair bit of experience with the farmall letter series tractors and am now discovering the awesome world of cub cadets. I bought my 1450 to haul stuff around our cow pasture and plan on slowly doing a mechanical restore/heavy tune-up as I have a little spare cash.

View attachment 155504

That’s an awesome find especially with the front hydraulics! Sorta rare find in my neck of the woods. I’ve had 2 1450’s in the past. Currently housing a 100 that I found at an estate sale about a week ago. In my opinion, I would probably get a new head or have that one lightly machined to make sure it’s straight along with a new head gasket.

 

[wh cc guy]

Welcome. Looks like you found a nice one.

 

[Eric Wittersheim]

Very nice 1450.

 

[Jim Guenther]

Very nice machine.
You can flatten the head by sanding it using wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of flat glass or granite floor tile. I "paint the bottom mounting portion of the head with a black marker then sand till it cleans up. Depending on how warped the head is I start with 220 or 320, then finish with 400 and maybe 600, but the 400 really seems to be smooth enough. Rotate the head in figure 8 strokes while sanding. I also rotate the head a quarter turn in my hands ever so often.

 

[jonrick]

Very nice machine.
You can flatten the head by sanding it using wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of flat glass or granite floor tile. I "paint the bottom mounting portion of the head with a black marker then sand till it cleans up. Depending on how warped the head is I start with 220 or 320, then finish with 400 and maybe 600, but the 400 really seems to be smooth enough. Rotate the head in figure 8 strokes while sanding. I also rotate the head a quarter turn in my hands ever so often.

Thanks for the tips/knowledge. Is removal a doable job with just a basic socket set? Right now the tractor is barn stored but I don't have access to shop to work on it.

 

[jonrick]

That’s an awesome find especially with the front hydraulics! Sorta rare find in my neck of the woods. I’ve had 2 1450’s in the past. Currently housing a 100 that I found at an estate sale about a week ago. In my opinion, I would probably get a new head or have that one lightly machined to make sure it’s straight along with a new head gasket.

Are new heads difficult to come by? Those 100s are super neat!

 

[Jim Guenther]

Thanks for the tips/knowledge. Is removal a doable job with just a basic socket set? Right now the tractor is barn stored but I don't have access to shop to work on it.

I'm not familiar with that exact model, but on most Kohler engines a basic socket will work. A few wrenches or a crescent wrench will help. Also a wire brush to clean the threads of any stud bolts if there are any. Before you try to remove the head bolts, spray them with Kroil or a good penetrant of you choice. I like to do this several times over a couple of days (especial the bolts/nuts on either side of the exhaust outlet). When you start removal- first tighten the bolt/nut very slightly, then loosen a little, spray some penetrant, repear, repeat until its moving easily. It's time consuming, but removing a broken head bolt is even more time consuming. Patience is key, especially with those bolts around the exhaust.
When you reassemble clean the bolt threads good with a wire brush. If you can get a tap to run down each hole in the block it sure helps get a good head torque later. If you can't get a tap, take a bolt, spray penetrating oil in the bolt hole and run bolt in and out several times, until it screws into the hole with out much socket effort. After you put the head on, torque it, run it a bit to warm it up, then re torque it again.