• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

New to me Cub 1200 with some issues.

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I believe the reason the flex plates crack and fail is related to the ISO mounts mushing out and throwing the whole drive train out of alignment. There has to be some flex somewhere on that end of the engine simply BECAUSE the engine is mount IS sandwiched between two rubber mounts.
 
You have wear in the clutch hanger, the bracket that holds it and the pin that goes through both of them.
Think about it, there are only 4 small thin bearing points (the thickness of these parts) for that pin to ride on, that is where all the slop is coming from.

I can see in the video the wear on the pin.
 
Last edited:
I’d say the engine mounts are shot. All of them look like this one.
1CEDC6C1-3747-4D43-871C-742E4E5BBCAA.jpeg
 
It kinda looks like the solid mounts were shoved over top of what was left of the original rubber ones. I would definitely remove the solid ones and replace with new rubber ones. Make sure there's no remains of any old rubber mounts either, the extra material can throw off the balance.
 
It kinda looks like the solid mounts were shoved over top of what was left of the original rubber ones. I would definitely remove the solid ones and replace with new rubber ones. Make sure there's no remains of any old rubber mounts either, the extra material can throw off the balance.
Balance?
 
You have wear in the clutch hanger, the bracket that holds it and the pin that goes through both of them.
Think about it, there are only 4 small thin bearing points (the thickness of these parts) for that pin to ride on, that is where all the slop is coming from.

I can see in the video the wear on the pin.

David - I'm not seeing the wear on the pin. It just looks a little shinny where it rides in the slot. Might even be brand new since there is no rust (and this tractor is in Ohio which as far as I know is still known as the rust belt :)

Mark - looking at the new video I will say none of the parts appear rusty so they must be replacement parts, and the clutch may well have been rebuilt. The whole problem may well be with the ISO-mounts. Someone has tightened the nuts down so tight it's almost certainly out of alignment. You definitely need to get new mounts, and if I recall correctly those nylock nuts should only be tightened about 3 full turns to get the correct torque spec.
 
I think I would certainly check that hinge pin and the lever for wear, but as long as the lever isn't sliding over so far as to lay on the bearing at a bad angle and rubbing on the sides of the throw out bearing, I wouldn't worry to much bout it. The lever has to have some freedom (play) to move. Just verify that when the clutch peddle is fully depressed the lever is centered on the bearing.

My 2 cents.
 
It will get tore down this week. My friend picked it up today he has been a cub collector and puller for 40+ years. He said those were not engine mounts they were some sort of spacers. The teaser spring and throw out bearing is shot. He said the engine is setting 1/4-1/2” too low. I know it’s in good hands, better than mine lol. Thanks to all that have posted and gave input.
 
I went through the clutch on my 1000 a few years ago and encountered a similar challenge as you are facing. I ended up replacing everything between the engine and transmission. I cost me plenty but I don't regret it. The clutch is smooth as silk and reliable. When you do it right you only cry once.
 
I went through the clutch on my 1000 a few years ago and encountered a similar challenge as you are facing. I ended up replacing everything between the engine and transmission. I cost me plenty but I don't regret it. The clutch is smooth as silk and reliable. When you do it right you only cry once.

That is probably what is going to happen with this one as well. Previous owner flat lied about everything being perfect on it. After I discovered what all was wrong with it he avoided me like the plague.
 
Back
Top