David Middleton
Active member
Not tonight. I can get one tomorrow.
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New Member from SE PA with a 124.
- Thread starter David Middleton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Don't worry about,I think you've figured out what you have
Your124 is a narrow frame isn't it? The321 won't go in without notching it out.
Good point for those not aware, however in David's first post he mentions using the K301 flywheel and tin:
Ahhhhh,I gotta pay attention
David Middleton
Active member
Yup, I'm planning on swapping to the smaller flywheel rather than notch.
The only time I can see really using all 14 horses is throwing snow so I'm not really worried about cooling.
The only time I can see really using all 14 horses is throwing snow so I'm not really worried about cooling.
Dave if you wind up with a 321 flywheel,bearing end plate and tin you might wanna sell get with me on it
I have those stickers available.
How do I get one?
I've been looking all over for it
Neither was I cuz I was just about to post the same thing...
David Middleton
Active member
Well I struck out on getting the set screws out of the pto... So next up is drilling it...
I did pop the piston and rod out and mic'd the crank and it needs to be turned. I got 1.496" in one direction and 1.491" in the other. I don't have a good enough mic to measure to ten thousands but the range is 1.5000-1.4995" and it's not even close... Plus it's supposed to be 0.0005" out of round max and it's 10x that.
So hopefully I can cut / polish the crank to 0.010" under and get a different rod. Fingers crossed the bore is good.
My inside mics come on Thursday so I'll be able to check the bore out.
Also, should the rod have this much space between the piston?
I did pop the piston and rod out and mic'd the crank and it needs to be turned. I got 1.496" in one direction and 1.491" in the other. I don't have a good enough mic to measure to ten thousands but the range is 1.5000-1.4995" and it's not even close... Plus it's supposed to be 0.0005" out of round max and it's 10x that.
So hopefully I can cut / polish the crank to 0.010" under and get a different rod. Fingers crossed the bore is good.
My inside mics come on Thursday so I'll be able to check the bore out.
Also, should the rod have this much space between the piston?
My new rod and piston did on the motor I just rebuilt
Of course it's my first rebuild so I'm not a pro! But my knock is gone!
David Middleton
Active member
I found some axial play in the front bearing that made a nice clunk when you move it up and down. I didn't put a dial indicator on it but it's more than zero so...
Then the crank being out that far probably had something to do with it. I couldn't measure the rod but the crank is basically 10 under in one direction. It must have been wore out and they just bored it and put a standard rod in. Or, they didn't measure in two points for the crank.
There's a machine shop by me that does all kinds of farm equipment and such. I'm going to talk to them and see about getting the Kirk balance plate too and having that put in. Especially if I don't have to bore it.
Then it's just clean, paint, bearings and gaskets and poof! New engine for the 124. Guess it'll be a 68-70 144 soon...
Then the crank being out that far probably had something to do with it. I couldn't measure the rod but the crank is basically 10 under in one direction. It must have been wore out and they just bored it and put a standard rod in. Or, they didn't measure in two points for the crank.
There's a machine shop by me that does all kinds of farm equipment and such. I'm going to talk to them and see about getting the Kirk balance plate too and having that put in. Especially if I don't have to bore it.
Then it's just clean, paint, bearings and gaskets and poof! New engine for the 124. Guess it'll be a 68-70 144 soon...
Can you explain to me what that balance plate is?
David Middleton
Active member
https://www.kirkengines.com/index.php#CrankshaftBalancePlateKit
It changes the balance factor of the crank and makes it run smoother.
It changes the balance factor of the crank and makes it run smoother.
Ahhhh,wish I would have known that a month ago
David Middleton
Active member
Still waiting on my inside mic's... I also have to drill out the set screws and continue taking it apart so I can inspect everything. Then I'll talk to the machine shop about getting everything done.
It's still in my junk shed but at least it's on a stand now...
It's still in my junk shed but at least it's on a stand now...
Have you used PB Blaster or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil on the PTO set screws? Have you cleaned out the heads in the set screws? There's typically a bunch of dirt, mud daubers, etch in them that can prevent the Allen wrench from getting a good purchase. Also try tapping on the end of the Allen wrench with a small hammer as you apply torque, this can act like an impact wrench and ca nhelp loosen the screws. Good luck.
