My new 1572 diesel

[kshultz]

I haven't messed with the power steering yet, but I've mowed with it a few times and I've noticed some major leakage going on. The last time I mowed I could smell Hytran, so I knew it was leaking pretty good.
I assume I'll need to replace some gaskets, but first I thought I would check the bolts. The ones on the axle housings was tight, but I thought the back plate was loose. They seemed to be just over snug, so I tightened them up pretty good (not knowing the torque specs).
Should there be a certain spot I should check if this continues?

And don't say right above the oil spot!

 

[kshultz]

Will the fender pan from an IH 782 fit on this 1572? Is it an exact fit?

 

[digger]

Yep they will.
Same part number even. 703-0064

 

[kshultz]

Thanks Charlie.
Well I still have a major leak. It seems to be leaking out of the top somewhere.

Could it be those two valves on top that are bad and leaking? I didn't take the tunnel cover off last night as it was getting late and it was way too hot to work on it. Here's some pics.

 

[kshultz]

Well, I see I haven't had any input on my leaking problem so I went to Youtube and found a video that showed the pressure valves going bad and leaking out the top. I bet that's my problem after watching the video.
My question is had anyone from here have this problem and where can I get them rebuilt?(as I type this I need to check CC Specialties)

Still I would like to hear from others that may have had the same problem.
Thanks.

 

[kshultz]

Are the valves from a 1450 the same for my 1572?

 

[digger]

Shultzie,

Yep, pretty much all our older Cubs take the SU-9500085P valves.

 

[klindstedt]

Hi Kent, I had the valves for my 1811 rebuilt by a guy that advertises his services on *that* auction site. His user ID is timarca. Very pleased with the end result and the price. Oh, and yes, mine leaked like a sieve out the top.

 

[kshultz]

Thanks guys! I'm trying to kill two birds with one stone.

 

[digger]

FYI for everyone.
Before you go sending stuff to Mark.
Contact him first to make sure he's back up and running.
His CNC machine has been down for a while and he told me the other day, it might be close to late fall before he gets things back up and running.

 

[kshultz]

OK. Upon further review I think it's this seal leaking instead of the pressure relief valves.
How in the heck do I get that SOB off? Do I have to unhook the drive shaft from the engine? Geez.

Looking for a quick answer 'cuz I'm deep into it now.
Thanks!

 

[fcurrier]

That's the way it looks from here.

 

[digger]

Drive shaft out, flange coupler off.
That housing under your red arrow has to come off.
Then the O-ring,needle bearing, pin and seal have to be replaced to fix it right.

 

[kshultz]

Dang it!

Thanks Charlie & Frank!

 

[kshultz]

So to get the drive shaft out do I just pound out the spiral pin or is there more?

 

[kshultz]

Dang, do I have to un-bolt the engine and slide it forward? Unhook the rear end and slide it back? UUUUUHHHHG!

 

[digger]

What I meant by the driveshaft out is,
Unbolt the flex/rag joints and move the shaft out of the way.
IMO,
It's best to do that, leave the flange on, remove the housing and knock the pin out on the bench so you can support it without banning on the needle bearing, same with putting it back together.
That's better than beating it out mid air, LOL

There's a pin inside that casting behind the needle bearing as well.

It's pretty simple for you to do with everything else you've done along the way.

 

[kshultz]

Charlie,
Hummmm....I did that and I just can't seem to get it out of t he way. If I could only get the bolts out, I might be able to remove the rag joints one piece of rubber at a time and that would give me more room.
I'll try again tonight.

 

[nbextermueller]

Keep posting pics! I'm going to be changing that very same seal real soon on the 2072.

Kent, I think that job would be slot easier if they had put those rag joint bolts in from the other side!

 

[jstertz]

When I changed over to the CV joint driveshaft on my 1772 I remember wrestling with the removal of that stupid clutch/rag joint setup. I remember at one point thinking that I was going to have to move the rear end backwards or the engine forwards but I finally got it. I wish I could remember how I did it but that was nearly five years ago! I know it is very difficult because the back of the drive shaft sticks into that rear hydro coupling. It was so easy to install the new CV drive shaft by comparison that it was almost laughable. If I remember what I did, I let you know. Nic, with your tractor, I'd drop the six engine plate to from bolts and slide it forward enough to clear and remove the driveshaft to work on that hydro. My .02. Good luck Kent...