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I just looked up on the parts look up and I found this. Could it be a "bushing-ball" (Item #8)??
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Does the driveshaft look like its been removed recently? Maybe it was from a previous removal and fell into any gunk built up on frame. A buddies 1812 had something similar, when we trailered it home it fell on the mower deck. Looked at the shaft and all was well. Just a thought. Oh and those weights look just like the ones on another friend's Massey furgeson 12.
 
Hey Kent, That is absolutely what it is - #8 - 'bushing-ball'. I had to replace two of those in my 1811 driveline recently. Well, back when I bought that hydro pump from you for the input shaft.
 
I just had a bolt back out holding 9,10,12,13 together......thought I threw a rod in the D600!!!!!

Scary moment and a beat up steering tube!!!!!
 
I'll have to check the drive shaft assy. out before I go tonight. But my guess is what happened to Steve is similar to what happened here earlier and has been repaired. It's just that I happened to find it setting in the frame on the right side of the engine toward the fire wall.
 
Update:
I went mowing with it last night and I was pleased with the Kubota. Now the rest ?????
I believe the power steering doesn't work. I had a hell of a time trying to keep it in a straight line. When I did have to turn, it turned OK, but it took more effort to turn than my "9" with no P.S.
Has anyone else had this trouble? I talked to my brother a little bit about it last night. I was telling him about how the steering wheel doesn't go back to the same spot after turning. He said the big tractors are like that.

Steve,
Do you have an article on P.S. rebuild?
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Also I need to get the Haban under it because the 50" deck needs adjusting and why bother with that if I'm not keeping it on.

Another thing. The hydro lever will not stay put at all. I could push it forward to my desired setting and within a foot it was back to sitting still. I had to keep my hand on it the whole time. It was like that when I bought it, but I figured by changing the hytran and filter it would snap out of it. Is there a fix for this problem?
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Here's some more pics of the wheel weights.
There is a part number on the back side.
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Shultzie, can you just tighten up on the lever's attaching bolt? I want to say I did that on my 1450, but don't have it in front of me now. Underneath the dash.

I still say those are MF garden tractor weights. My buddies dad said theirs were original to the MF 12 when his dad bought it new.
 
You can easily tighten the hydro lever. With the 2 side panels off, you see a big nut, like 7/8" on each side of the dash tower. Those hold the tube connected to the lever. Tighten them up slightly to find the resistance you want in the lever. Mine back out again after awhile, so I made need to lock tight them soon.
 
Earl & Nic.
Thanks, I'll check out tightening the lever. I hope that's the only thing I need to do.
 
Guys.
I tightened the lever up and it works great now.
Thanks!!
My "9" did something similar. If I ever get it running again I'll do the same thing with it.
Thanks again.
 
Change the hytran and filter. ....PS is usually the first thing to show issues with a plugged filter, ar least that's been my experience. ...
 
Shultzie, if the fluid & filter change doesn't work it sounds like the O ring may be worn in the PS ram if it won't hold a straight line. You have 2 options, replace it or put it in a lathe and cut the end off, replace the O ring and weld it back up. Congrats on the nice rig!
 
Todd,
After reading your post, I'm guessing that is more the problem. I'll look into it a little deeper. Thanks.

Steve,
I already did the filter and hydro fluid change.
 
Schultzie, I agree with Todd's assessment of the power steering issues. I had two super GT's with the same issues. That's why you see so many SGT's with black steering cylinders, the original was replaced already I assume. Seems to be a common issue.
 
So where do I split this thing? Turning it on the lathe will I assume take the weld off and it will separate. Right?
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Which weld? Green arrow or red?
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I would think the rear so when you weld it pull the rod to the front to keep from the heat.And when you take the rod end off you pull the rod out and put a new o ring in the front of the cyl and replace the piston o ring.
 

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