• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

My First Cub Cadet

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dan Page

Active member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Messages
33
Location
Middle Sackville
Hello everyone, I have recently joined this forum and thank everyone for their welcome.

I bought a 1968 Cub Cadet 104. Neither clutch worked, the drive clutch nor the pto clutch. I partially disassembled the tractor and located the issues. The drive clutch pressure spring was broken and the teasing spring as well. The former owner attempted to force the tractor in gear and ripped out the holes in the clutch disk that keep the disk in place when disengaged. In addition the pins on the flywheel that hold the disk were bent so I had read an article about making the clutch stronger for competition use where they had drilled the flywheel and disk so there were 6 pins. So I went and cut out the original pins and inserted some 3/8 bolts after I cut the heads off and then nutted on either side of the flywheel making three new pins. I intend on getting a new clutch disk but to make the tractor movable under it's own power I turned the disk and drilled three new holes.

I am now working on the pto clutch. I have purchased a new bearing from princess auto, but have yet to install it. My wife's car broke a timing belt and I am in the process of installing a used engine as it is a zero clearance engine. Here are a few photos.

The 104 came with a hardly used 36" snowblower, and two mower decks. I then purchased parts from what I think was a 125. Parts being complete chassis with front axle, seat, steering wheel, one rear wheel and tire, seat, grille frame, hood, 42" snowblower and a bunch of other odds and ends.

I am going to look around and see if I can find the answer but from helping to run a few gaming sites I know some forums want to keep the image size down. Is there a limit to the size and or photos that can be posted? Ty
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4539.JPG
    IMG_4539.JPG
    139.8 KB
  • IMG_4559.JPG
    IMG_4559.JPG
    108.3 KB
  • IMG_4558.JPG
    IMG_4558.JPG
    69.4 KB
I always click on the little insert image icon just above, and insert my pic. Usually around 100KB.
Also, you can insert these as a full image or thumbnail.
 
Welcome to the forum Dan. You are going to love that 104. These little tractors are some of the hardest working machines I have ever worked on. I mow weekly with a 108. If you take care of her, she will take care of you.

Also, if you get stuck, use the forum! There is such a wealth of knowledge contained within, and people are really friendly here. You cannot ask a stupid question. Best of luck to you buddy :)
 
I see you have the IH cast iron wheel weights on that 104, very nice! That fiberglass seat pan can be reupholstered. Originally it was covered with a white vinyl with a blue edging. The blue edging is no longer available so if you happened to get that with the tractor be sure to hang on to it. You can also get a slip on seat cushion for it, they are typically black in that size. I have a black one on my #2 125. Here's a photo of the slip on cover and one of the seat pans that I had reupholstered.

Seat Cover_01.jpg
Seat Reupholstered_01.jpg
 
Thank you, however I did not do the upholstery work, I sent it out to have done. Yes, the seat pan is fiberglass.
 
Where would you get tires for these tractors? I see these tires at my local store they are trailer tires but I am not sure if they would fit. They are both 8 but would they bee taller?
 

Attachments

  • tire pa.JPG
    tire pa.JPG
    59.6 KB
Hello Dan - welcome to the Forum from north of the border. We have several members from your side of the line.

Tires for garden tractors don't have Federal standards (at least on this side of the border) so the dimensions are always approximate. In fact I just hate that the manufacturers can't do better. I used to have a set of Goodyear rear tires marked 23.5" tall but they actually only measured 21.5". The Goodyear front tires were marked 16x6.5x8 and should have measured 16" tall but they barely made 15".

The "8" in the dimension of the Carlisle tire in your pic is the wheel diameter (8 inches). The actual tire dimensions are supposed to be 4.80" wide, 4.0" section width, 16.1" tall (all approximate). You'd have to measure one to know for certain the actual dimensions - but without it mounted it would really be questionable.

The Carlisle tire in your pic does look like a nice saw-tooth tread design but I'm not sure it would be good for your tractor. That tread is generally more suited to a hard surface, and I'll bet it's a 4-ply (or 4-ply rated) tire since it has a heavy load rating at 60psi (which is quite high). Garden tractors generally are better suited to a softer tire with more flex for turning and surface variations which you usually find with a 2-ply tire.
 
Just checked greedbay, and found two Deestone tri-ribs and tubes for $45. Search the web for a little while, and you should find what you want. You could also go to your local tire dealer. They should be able to get you some fairly inexpensive. I have done that several times.
 
If I were to put a loader on, I would go with the Vedestrian V-61's. (Hope I spelled that right.) Just my two cents.
 
If you are going to put a loader on it and have it be more than a toy or showpiece, an axle/spindle/wheel/tire upgrade is in order. 16-6.50-8 tires on my 682 with loader:

IMG_20190912_175356.jpg
IMG_20191018_201724.jpg


These are the original 1" spindles with some additional reinforcement (different than the design on your 104 since this one is later) with trailer hubs, wheels, and 4-ply smooth rib tires aired up to 28psi for ease of steering. You do not want less than 4 plies for a loader tractor front tire. The V61s are great tires, but increase the steering effort, which is not what you want on a manual steering tractor.

Honestly, a narrow frame gear drive is about the last thing I'd want to put a loader on. My loader originally came on a 124, and it was extremely clumsy. Access for maintenance is difficult enough as it is, and gets harder with a loader installed.
 
Dan - you need to follow the instructions in the Service Manual. If you didn't find the page for Manuals yet here it is.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/threads/cc-manuals.7191/
The manual for your 104 is under the link for Tractor Service and then the link for 1x4-5 (it covers 72, 104, 105, 124 and 125 and on here it's just referred to as the 1x4/5 series)

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5 Service Manual.pdf
Have a look at page 2-63. Illustration No. 2-88 shows the bearing and locking collar installed on the crankshaft. Installation details are under Instruction No. 1.

There is also additional information about the locking collar at FAQ No. 38
http://cubfaq.com/bearingcollar.html
 
Hello all. So after some assembly, disassembly and reassembly I have the pro clutch installed. I need to get some new parts but it is serviceable. I drilled out the set screws and then drill them to a larger size and tap them. No problem.
I ran into a problem with the locking eccentric bearing and collar. I have included a photo and maybe someone can tell me if the crankshaft is supposed to be the same diameter throughout. The old bearing looks like it was spinning on the shaft not on the bearing itself. Luckily whoever had it apart didn’t push the crankshaft pulley far enough on. Once I did that the bearing and collar would lock. It still seemed a little loose with a small amount of space between the inside of the bearing to the crank so I cut a piece of key stock and shaved it and tapped it in place. That should take any play out of the bearing center if any load tries to twist it. I’m just wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Thank you
 

Attachments

  • 7B60C085-62B9-4A1B-A7DF-A0C02DABE635.jpeg
    7B60C085-62B9-4A1B-A7DF-A0C02DABE635.jpeg
    89.9 KB
  • BC9F34E9-8759-4118-8910-7B7F31495A2C.jpeg
    BC9F34E9-8759-4118-8910-7B7F31495A2C.jpeg
    47.8 KB
  • 154D43A0-4601-4C57-85DD-F17456DEC240.jpeg
    154D43A0-4601-4C57-85DD-F17456DEC240.jpeg
    102.7 KB
I see you have the IH cast iron wheel weights on that 104, very nice! That fiberglass seat pan can be reupholstered. Originally it was covered with a white vinyl with a blue edging. The blue edging is no longer available so if you happened to get that with the tractor be sure to hang on to it. You can also get a slip on seat cushion for it, they are typically black in that size. I have a black one on my #2 125. Here's a photo of the slip on cover and one of the seat pans that I had reupholstered.

View attachment 139506View attachment 139507
 

Latest posts

Back
Top