1450 engine securing/mounting bolts fell out

[jonrick]

The flat pan is for the 10 hp K241 engines. You can't use those on the 12-16 hp engines. You need the deep sump pan from a Cub Cadet-spec K301, K321, or K341. I'd look for a cast iron pan instead of an aluminum one.

Good to know. Thank you!

 

[mgonitzke]

Interesting. Are the cooling properties the reason that some of these machines were fitted with aluminum pans? I was wondering why IH would go with such a soft metal for a part that is used to secure the engine.

A bare aluminum pan will transfer heat to the air better than a cast iron pan. This will slightly reduce the oil temp. I doubt the difference is enough to matter.

The aluminum pan was likely a manufacturing cost savings.

 

[jdrong]

I don't know how true this is but, some of the reasons for switching to aluminum were manufacturing costs and the cost of meeting pollution standards for cast iron at the time. So, then came aluminum rear ends, and more.

 

[rkuik]

Sorry, I believe the flat pan (flat bottom that comes up roughly a 1/2") is for the 10 horse that uses the short dipper, the half, half moon pan is used with the 12/14 hp engines w/the long dipper. "I" would not recommend cutting off a dipper.

 

[jonrick]

I realize this has probably been asked a million times, but just to be sure, is there anything beside the ISO mounts and breather kit I should service while I have the engine out that is relatively easy?

 

[dschwandt]

I'd pull the fan shroud and find the timing mark on the flywheel, clean it and highlight w/a bit of contrasting paint so it stands out, then static time the engine.

Pull the engine `tins and clean as needed (head & engine fins)

Check the condition of the rag joints and replace if necessary.

Do a bit of house cleaning as well as needed.
Check for loose, bare or corroded wires too, think PTO feed.
Just a few thinks off the top of my head.

 

[PACub100]

Replace the crank seals.
While it's open, pull your steering box apart, clean it and repack with new grease...

 

[jonrick]

I'd pull the fan shroud and find the timing mark on the flywheel, clean it and highlight w/a bit of contrasting paint so it stands out, then static time the engine.

Pull the engine `tins and clean as needed (head & engine fins)

Check the condition of the rag joints and replace if necessary.

Do a bit of house cleaning as well as needed.
Check for loose, bare or corroded wires too, think PTO feed.
Just a few thinks off the top of my head.

Thanks! Just got the tractor to my Dad's shop and will be digging in next week. I'll post updates once done.

 

[jonrick]

Status update:

I have the engine out. I have it sitting on two boards. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for getting the oil pan off. Are there any hoist points on the k321? Can I safely lay the engine on it's front? Probably obvious answers but I'm paranoid of doing something stupid and causing damage.

 

[bcarl]

Status update:

I have the engine out. I have it sitting on two boards. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for getting the oil pan off. Are there any hoist points on the k321? Can I safely lay the engine on its front? Probably obvious answers but I'm paranoid of doing something stupid and causing damage.

Pg 18 of the service manual shows an l shaped bracket that you can use to lift the engine. It is attached to one of the head bolts and has a hole on the upper side to hook onto. Once the engine is drained of oil it shouldn’t hurt to tilt the engine over to remove the oil pan.

 

[dschwandt]

Should have had one on it.
If it's gone, someone has removed it.
Not a big deal to lake one at all.

 

[jonrick]

Yep, mine is missing the hoist point. It also has make-shift engine tins on it. But I managed to get the new oil pan on so difficult part should be behind me now.

 

[jonrick]

I'd pull the fan shroud and find the timing mark on the flywheel, clean it and highlight w/a bit of contrasting paint so it stands out, then static time the engine.

Pull the engine `tins and clean as needed (head & engine fins)

Check the condition of the rag joints and replace if necessary.

Do a bit of house cleaning as well as needed.
Check for loose, bare or corroded wires too, think PTO feed.
Just a few thinks off the top of my head.

What are signs of a bad/in need of replacement rag joint? (This is the first machine I've owned that uses them.)