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Loader Dreamin'

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DON - You might be better off with two smaller pumps than one big pump. That way both valves would have priority.

The big IH tractors (5X88's) had flow controls to restrict max flow thru a circuit and one of the up to four valves had priority anyhow.
 
I can pick up 400 pounds with mine and it goes up and curls with little to no loss of power I can see.
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Dennis/John-

They might very well be 2"...I can't measure them at the moment...they're rather far away
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John Underwood
Thanks I was told that PB could be used for another valve to add a grapple or something else ? I wonder if the line size makes a difference ? I want to hard line all the lines for a neater look and was thinking that might make a difference . I have to work the bugs out of the loader this spring. I have made an appointment after the snow is gone to have a friend make some change to the plumbing . Thanks for your help.


Charlie

You should weld in and gusset the front spindles on you loader . That is a very weak area there. I bought plans from PF engineering to build my loader and have hopes that I can overcome the fade I have now .
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DONALD - I did a little Googling on hydraulics. Speaking from personal experience every NPT threaded fitting is a restriction, and every elbow in the flow path disrupts flow too. Sharp changes in direction and flexible points in the system should be made with hose which I'd size so the ID of the adapters from steel to SAE R100 hose is close to the same size as the ID of the steel tube.

The info I found shows that the lines into & out of valves should be 1/2" steel tube rated at least as high as you pump. Those lines should extend to a convenient place to tee off to each cylinder where 3/8" tubing can be used.

On a small loader like used on a CC that large OD tubing would look very large. I almost think you could use 3/8" tube for runs that feed two cylinders and tee off into 1/4" tubing to each cylinder. The smaller tubing would increase fricton or resistance in the flow of fluid which would raise temp's of the fluid. But on intermittant use it might not be an issue.

I will say that when you start checking on prices often times the smaller fittings carry the BIGGER price tags. The small 4100-series 3/8" NPT Pioneer couplers for my 982's hyd system cost about triple what the 1/2" NPT fittings do for my big tractors.
 
I built a loader from plans that I bought from a company called CAD loader. It is a very detailed book of big clear drawings on every piece that is used. I also used the front PTO because I could turn it off when starting or not using the loader. The loader can be bought with everything in a steel and hydraulic kit. You can find your own steel and buy your own hydraulic parts. Just the two kits delivered to my door was about $2300. One nice thing about the steel is that all of the pieces were plasma cut and the cuts were really clean. The big holes, 2", were drilled by big machines and made the assembly easy to weld together. I used a small hyd reservoir from Northern Hyd which I mounted just forward of the left foot pad. I too ran into not being able to use two functions at the same time unless it was in the downward direction. Like lowering the bucket and tilting it at the same time. I also painted the old "Flying Tiger" shark's mouth and eye on both sides of the bucket to thrill the kids. It was a lot of fun building it.
 
Charlie "Digger" Proctor

I thought I would post a shot of the mod I did to the front spindels on my 129 loader. This will make the stronger . I see Kraig has a broken one to repair and this will work for him also.

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Don T.
That pic was taken before the loader project was completed.
The spindles/gussets are even beefier than yours are.
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Don-
"I see Kraig has a broken one to repair and this will work for him also."

Shhhh... Don't say those kinds of things. Kraig will be at my doorstep with a broken spindle in one hand and a scrap of steel in the other hand wanting me to fire up the welder!

LOL!
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You guys beefing up your garden tractors for loader duty are SILLY.
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Just use a BIGGER
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TRACTOR.
 
I already have a bigger loader tractor,
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, though it's not <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>. Those spindles are for this:

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KRAIG - Well, That's TOTALLY Cool. If you need any help.... Just ask.... I'll ask ART to help you all He can!

ART - I'm going to "PLEAD the Fifth" on your comment.
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If your loader tractor ain't four wheel drive you're spinning your wheels!
 
JERRY - 4WD wouldn't do me ANY good on some of my loader work. Lots of times when I load dirt I have the frt wheels off the ground. Also when I push snow with the blade on the loader I ALWAYS carry the frt wheels & steer with the brakes.

But thinking back at the decades of running Letter series FARMALL's with loaders I do remember having to dump a bucket or two of "stuff" when trying to back up out of the back barn with the '51 M & Stan-Hoist loader that's out in the shop. I made a week-long project out of cleaning that barn the summer of '72. First thing was I had a teeny-tiny spreader, second thing was I was spreading about 3/4 mile away from the barn, third thing was the "stuff" was about three feet deep, barn had a dirt floor and handn't been cleaned for many many years, maybe ten?

FWA would have been great in that instance. Dad almost turned that M into a dedicated loader by "reversing" the tractor under the loader, installing at the time, still available IH reverse operating controls on the tractor and mounting that loader with the bucket arms extending over the "rear axles" of the tractor so the weight in the bucket increased traction. There's been many similar tractors shown in FARMSHOW magazine.

And the one thing I like about the loader KRAIG posted the pic of, is the self-leveling bucket. Bucket always stays at the same angle to the ground no matter how high you raise the loader arms.
 
Kraig I don't think that would fit thru my 8' garage door, other than that it looks like fun!

Dennis
I'm still in learning mode on loaders. I think I get what you mean on the leveling thing tho. On my little guy when all the way up material can fall out onto the hood. That's probably why when I bought it the hood was new without any decals.
 
Jerry, Oh, I bet I could get it in through your 8' garage door. All bets are off on the condition of your garage and door afterwards however.
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