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Little Big Tractors
- Thread starter gcoleman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I would stick with the inserts. Unless you have some way to drill the holes with a milling machine and a dividing head to get the angles near-perfect, you will drive yourself nuts trying to do it and probably screw it up in the process. Bolt circles are hard to do without the right tools (BTDT)
Additionally, notice how the wheel center is stamped in the area of the lug bolts; the holes have a tapered flange that mates with the tapered shoulder of the head of the lug bolt, which centers the lug bolt in the hole in the wheel and greatly increases the bearing area. You will have a hard time recreating that by drilling holes in the wheel center.
Additionally, notice how the wheel center is stamped in the area of the lug bolts; the holes have a tapered flange that mates with the tapered shoulder of the head of the lug bolt, which centers the lug bolt in the hole in the wheel and greatly increases the bearing area. You will have a hard time recreating that by drilling holes in the wheel center.
Glen - IF I can find it on my HDs I've got a circle with 360 lines coming out of the center I went nuts drawing on the computer. I'll send it to you if I find it , then all you'll need to do is measure out from the center and go around every ... 360 / 8 = spacing... 45°.
That is if you have a good printer.
But I'd still rather see you buy a 1466 and make a Cub Cadet out of it !
That is if you have a good printer.
But I'd still rather see you buy a 1466 and make a Cub Cadet out of it !
Got it printed Ken, thank you (wish I could go back and fix my front wheels...oh well in time haha) And once I get my real 1466 Ill try and make it a giant 149 hahaha. Bet nobodys done that before either!
Matt, very valid point, tho I had planned on fudging it close enough and using standard flat shoulder bolts with similar size or the same size heads and then tapping the holes (agreed getting them straight will be a nightmare if I do go that route) and then bolting them in. Sounds easy...but I know it'll be anything but, Ive emailed Kurt and hes given me insider access to the little big tractor world, the guy is a genius, point blank. Again, thank you Kurt
Matt, very valid point, tho I had planned on fudging it close enough and using standard flat shoulder bolts with similar size or the same size heads and then tapping the holes (agreed getting them straight will be a nightmare if I do go that route) and then bolting them in. Sounds easy...but I know it'll be anything but, Ive emailed Kurt and hes given me insider access to the little big tractor world, the guy is a genius, point blank. Again, thank you Kurt
mgonitzke
Well-known member
He said he want to do 10...that'd be 36 degrees apart.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Glen-
There are 360 degrees in a circle...divide 360 by the number of bolts to get the spacing.
How do you intend to line up the pattern on the wheel so you get the holes in the right place? You'll have a much harder time than you think trying to find the center of the hole in the wheel. Same problem for the axle- the weld that holds the flange to the axle will distort the piece of paper and throw off your lines. If the location of any of the holes you drill is off more than about 0.005" or so (and that's pretty optimistic), the holes are not going to line up well enough to put a bolt through. Once again, that is from my experience. I know it's your tractor to do as you please with, but you have a very slim chance of success here.
There are 360 degrees in a circle...divide 360 by the number of bolts to get the spacing.
How do you intend to line up the pattern on the wheel so you get the holes in the right place? You'll have a much harder time than you think trying to find the center of the hole in the wheel. Same problem for the axle- the weld that holds the flange to the axle will distort the piece of paper and throw off your lines. If the location of any of the holes you drill is off more than about 0.005" or so (and that's pretty optimistic), the holes are not going to line up well enough to put a bolt through. Once again, that is from my experience. I know it's your tractor to do as you please with, but you have a very slim chance of success here.
Glen - To show Matt that not everything was built with computers and lasers ...
Make a form fitting block of wood for the center of the wheel. Take a printed copy of the degree spacing paper and thumb tack or glue it to the wooden center. Drill a small hole in the center of the wood and put a nail or other rod in it sticking up , make a small loop in a string and hook it on the nail. Stretch out the string on top of the degree lines and over the wheel marking the line onto the wheel with a pencil.
Kinda like laying it out with a chalk box.
It can be done and your drill bit is going to drill an over size hole anyway so you'll get enough fudge factor for the bolts to align.
Just remember to check and re-check and measure everything twice before drilling.
Matt - I've free hand cut Morse Taper #2 on a reamer shank before that fits perfectly in my lathe and drill press and DanH told me it was impossible to do free hand.
Poor people never give up !!
Make a form fitting block of wood for the center of the wheel. Take a printed copy of the degree spacing paper and thumb tack or glue it to the wooden center. Drill a small hole in the center of the wood and put a nail or other rod in it sticking up , make a small loop in a string and hook it on the nail. Stretch out the string on top of the degree lines and over the wheel marking the line onto the wheel with a pencil.
Kinda like laying it out with a chalk box.
It can be done and your drill bit is going to drill an over size hole anyway so you'll get enough fudge factor for the bolts to align.
Just remember to check and re-check and measure everything twice before drilling.
Matt - I've free hand cut Morse Taper #2 on a reamer shank before that fits perfectly in my lathe and drill press and DanH told me it was impossible to do free hand.
Poor people never give up !!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ken-
That will work if you aren't overly concerned about right on. I have done that sort of thing, but it still has its limitations. I have had to do some really stupid, annoying things with geometry and multiple measurements due to lack of proper tools, and it has worked, but must be thoroughly thought out before cutting anything.
I just keep looking at his picture of the bolts he added to the front wheels. He's gonna have to do a better job than that of locating them for this to work.
At this point he may as well just drill 1/2" holes in both the wheel and axle flange, and hope he was close enough with the hole location to get some 7/16" lug bolts through there. Since they won't be load-bearing, it won't matter. He needs to tighten the 5 original bolts first and then add in his cosmetic ones so that they remain cosmetic.
That will work if you aren't overly concerned about right on. I have done that sort of thing, but it still has its limitations. I have had to do some really stupid, annoying things with geometry and multiple measurements due to lack of proper tools, and it has worked, but must be thoroughly thought out before cutting anything.
I just keep looking at his picture of the bolts he added to the front wheels. He's gonna have to do a better job than that of locating them for this to work.
At this point he may as well just drill 1/2" holes in both the wheel and axle flange, and hope he was close enough with the hole location to get some 7/16" lug bolts through there. Since they won't be load-bearing, it won't matter. He needs to tighten the 5 original bolts first and then add in his cosmetic ones so that they remain cosmetic.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Here's some thoughts on this. Glen C. The one 1466 has dual wheel on it. The tractors didn't come from the factory with regular dual wheel type hubs unless the dual wheels were ordered along with the tractor. And then the main hub was cast iron. At least I've never seen any like that. I think that you could ahve ordered those type of hubs as a special attachment for special adaptations however in general those hubs were meant for duals. Now if you're talking the four wheel drive tractors such as the 4366, etc THEN they came with hubs such as that. AND they were heavy. I used to work in a place the drilled and tapped the holes for those hubs for IH. Now I know the $$$ are tight for you however have you ever thought about getting a pair of Xtrememotorworks Custom Centers or have Aaron make you a set. If you're doing it and want it to look correct then I'd forget the ten bolt Dual wheel thing and go with the genuine cast iron hub look.
haha hey, the front wheels dont look bad for free hand but I was and still am bothered that I didnt plan a little better, thats the disadvantage of haste, but if you dont look too close all the flaws dont show up anyway, the good ol ten footer principle. I think for now im just gonna leave the wheels the way they are and once I get back on my feet and get my allowance back I'll go from there, Marlin, that thought kept me up last night sketching and I definitely regretted it this morning when the alarm clock went off.
Ken, for me all it takes is someone saying it cant be done or you cant do that and Im just hell bent on proving them wrong. Doesnt always work, as you all can see, but, worth a shot right?
Oh, and not to be pushy but does anyone know anything about that 1206 mini at the bottom of the page? Im really curious about it. It is a true mini, mines just wearing big kid clothes
Ken, for me all it takes is someone saying it cant be done or you cant do that and Im just hell bent on proving them wrong. Doesnt always work, as you all can see, but, worth a shot right?
Oh, and not to be pushy but does anyone know anything about that 1206 mini at the bottom of the page? Im really curious about it. It is a true mini, mines just wearing big kid clothes
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Glen c. I apologize for causing you to lose sleep last night. Your tractor still looks just fantastic the way it is. I always think back to how things were done before computers. Someone had to start somewhere.
GLEN - To answer your first question on this page about the scale 1206, SON & I looked that "1206" over REALLY well at RPRU in Penfield, IL back in 2003 think it was.
YES, that air intake is real, it really works. It's also really "Turbo-charged". I never saw it running but I did have some close-up pic's of the belt-driven oil pump mounted off the frt of the crankshaft to pressure lube the turbo bearings. I can't imagine it makes much boost but the owner/builder did a really nice job on the install.
Far as the discussion about wheel design, which is something I know a bit about, I always wanted to make a heavy steel center disc that would bolt up to a CC axle flange and allow a rim to "Bolt-on" in variable tread widths like most rear flange-mount wheels seen on compact utility tractors. The center disc would only be about ten inches in diameter, but if you make it a full INCH thick it would weigh about 22 pounds and act as a wheel weight, and you could bolt the rim to the center inside and outside the center disc.
The flat center discs used on wheels have to be REALLY strong and thick so they don't bend due to side loading. That's why ALL other wheels have the concave and/or convex shape stamped into them. If you use flat steel you have to make the centers MUCH thicker, which is also "heavier", which as Art A. says, is a Good thing!
YES, that air intake is real, it really works. It's also really "Turbo-charged". I never saw it running but I did have some close-up pic's of the belt-driven oil pump mounted off the frt of the crankshaft to pressure lube the turbo bearings. I can't imagine it makes much boost but the owner/builder did a really nice job on the install.
Far as the discussion about wheel design, which is something I know a bit about, I always wanted to make a heavy steel center disc that would bolt up to a CC axle flange and allow a rim to "Bolt-on" in variable tread widths like most rear flange-mount wheels seen on compact utility tractors. The center disc would only be about ten inches in diameter, but if you make it a full INCH thick it would weigh about 22 pounds and act as a wheel weight, and you could bolt the rim to the center inside and outside the center disc.
The flat center discs used on wheels have to be REALLY strong and thick so they don't bend due to side loading. That's why ALL other wheels have the concave and/or convex shape stamped into them. If you use flat steel you have to make the centers MUCH thicker, which is also "heavier", which as Art A. says, is a Good thing!
I believe these were Cubs that were sold in France. Note the rear rims.
If they were sold in France, they were probably also sold in Canada. I like that rear rim setup, tho Im partial to my wide tires, I wish they were wider but I dont want to go all the way up to a 26x12x12, and I had thought about a solid center wheel like most of the aforementioned adjustable and non adjustable compacts and sub compacts have, not sure why, just like the look. I think Marlin hit it on the head when Xtreme Motorworks custom centers were brought up, I thinking in the distant days to come, my 1466 might just have actual keyway axles and clamp on two piece rims, not sure I like the silver and yellow rims, my rears were originally painted two tone but I couldnt find the correct silver (figures, you find something you like and its immediately discontinued) so I repainted them all yellow. Ill have to draw up and post my sketches to plant seeds in the rest of the creative minds around here.
If this link gets nuked I'll understand since it is sortof against the rules, however, I found my tractors lost cousin!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200642657839
If this link gets nuked I'll understand since it is sortof against the rules, however, I found my tractors lost cousin!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200642657839
Ok I cant take it anymore, looking at alot of cubs and other tractors that are running oversize tires only makes me want to do so more,Im really happy with my Tru powers and Firestones but, I will be stuffing the V61 18x8.50's on the front wheels next month (if I can wrestle em on to a 6.5" stock wheel, tire machine may help). Ive already got the 23x10.50-12 tru powers on the back, they look good, but just arent wide enough for my "open" rear with my flattop fenders. They get good traction, but are a little hard on the yard especially on my hills, however, thats why I got them. The old turfs it came with didnt do bad but loaded up with grass and dirt and spun easy, so far never had that issue with the carlisles. Only thing I dont like about them is how they ride up on a stick or root and spin and then promptly dig a hole, one thing I will give the turf tires credit for, they tend to grip much better especially around objects when run on the softer side too. I was considering upping to 26x12-12 and filling them for weight since more tire gives me more room and thus more weight, but I was curious if I would be compromising traction since theyre even more of a "floater" than what Ive got on there. Charlie, how do you like the ones you have on your 1650 (I think its a 1650)
input is welcome.
input is welcome.
