IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[aaytay]

Can someone tell me how I can determine what size a bare Kohler block is?

It came in the same box as the 10hp engine that was with a 100 rolling-chassis I bought earlier this winter. I assumed they were both 10hp blocks, but this one has balance gears and the bore is bigger.

It also has the low-mounted dipstick if that helps...

(Message edited by aaytay on February 18, 2004)

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt
Don
anyone else that uses JBcan't Weld ,
if you've had to burn , chip , scratch , chisel , grind as much of that crap off aluminum boats as I have before welding and repairing them CORRECTLY then you'll appreiate this link a lot more. This place has the high temp stuff you should be using in engine mods. I've ordered from them in the past and they make sure you get the right product for the job. They have a high temp ceramic coating I intend to use on some aluminum molds.
Link

 

[dfrisk]

ART - Bore in the K-241 10 HP is 3.250" plus any over-bores up to .030"; K-301 12 HP is 3.375" up to .030" O/S, K-321 14 HP would have the big flywheel & blower hsg, big exh. valves and a 3.500" bore plus up to .030" overbore. K-341 would have 10 head bolt holes in the block deck & 3.75" bore plus the .030" over-bores.
Stroke in the K-241 is 2.875", K-301, 321, & 341 is 3.250". Need more info I have a BUNCH of other worthless dimensions from the service manual memorized.

 

[gjohnson]

Don ...we have some 88tc running down here and good I might say,but the vrod would tear them a new one. Have you rode one yet?

 

[wcompton]

Art-
Sometimes behind the S/G big pulley the model number is cast in; some do, some dont. The engine I'm building does have a "K321" cast into it.

 

[aaytay]

Denny-
Thanks for the measurements. This one doesn't even have a flywheel (just a galled up crank) so I didn't know where to start. The piston and hunk of rod that was jammed in from the top down (no head) didn't appear to have any 'overbore' markings on it, so hopefully I'm dealing with a std bore block.

Wyatt-
Thanks for the tip on the cast-in-number. I'll give it a look-see tonight..

 

[farmall gray]

Ken W,
I think that is the same company that makes
"pyro putty". I used it to fix the manifold on my
F-20. It is good stuff but has its limitations.
I was able to build up the mating surface where
is was eroded away. But when I tried to coat the whole manifold to make it look good, it wanted to bubble and flake off.

 

[aaytay]

I need opinions...
I'm about to replace a rear crankshaft oil seal on a K161 that went bad because the aluminum bearing plate came loose. Although I don't have the flywheel off yet, I'm assuming that the sealing surface of the bearing plate itself is trashed from moving around so I'm already planning on replacing that.

Here's where I need opinions...
Should I also replace the seal at the other (PTO) end of the engine while I am at it, or don't those typically go bad? Guess I just hate to tear something out that's working fine in the first place...

All opinions, advice welcomed....

 

[dkirk]

Art,

The sealing surface of the bearing plate is probably ok, but the pilot diameter may be hammered on. Take a careful look and you may be able to reuse it.

If the PTO seal wasn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. This you can replace at a later date without tearing the engine down or even taking it out of the tractor.

 

[sblunier]

Dave,

Any luck with your electronics buddies and the tach driver in the points saver???

 

[aaytay]

David-
Thanks for your thoughts. I just came in from pulling off the flywheel. You were right, the bearing plate was fine even though it had lost two of it's capscrews. Looks like I get to order the gasket & seal and put it back together! <font size="-2">with locktite!</font>

 

[dkirk]

Steve,

I (we) are working on it. My plan is to come up with a module that provides a signal that 4-cylinder engine tachs read. This would allow a large selection of tachometers to be used on a single cylinder Kohler. It will be a separate module, not part of the PointsSaver. This allows more flexibility and add-on-later options.

I'm aiming for a summer release.

 

[farmall gray]

Art,
Make sure you get some thick and thin gaskets
so you can set the proper crankshaft endplay.

 

[aaytay]

Todd-
Thanks, I saw that when I read the manual. It was new to me, but didn't look too hard. Since you brought it up, could somebody look up the endplay specs for a K161 (7hp)? The manual I have only goes as small as the 86's 8hp. (.002-.023)

 

[jkoenig]

Art,

My Kohler manual says the .002-.023 is good for the 161 also.

 

[aaytay]

Thanks Jim

 

[wcompton]

Need some help-
I'm trying to find a 14hp piston (3.5 + overbore) with a 1" compression height since I've got a 6" rod already. Checked with Vogel & Lakota websites and they only list 14hp pistons with a 1.125 compression height. With a 6" rod and std. head gasket would have .125 pop-out which I'm looking to be flush if I can.

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt , I've seen the round track guys here mill off the tops and run all season. Just a thought

 

[wcompton]

Ken-
Regretfully I'm not going to try that, top ring lands are a specified distance from the deck/top of the piston to prevent excess carbon buildup which will rake the cylinder walls just awful. This isn't a pulling motor so I'll expect some decent life out of major components . . . . . . and it's looking like I won't have the option of a simple .010 oversize piston and will have to go .030 over which is pretty much the end of the line for std bores.

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt , I was thinking that the guy was crazy for doing it , buying 8 forged pistons then milling the domes off but it was his engine.