IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[farmall gray]

Dave,
I'm just glad I was able to figure it out. I was about ready to junk that carb.
It took
me quite a bit of thought and studying to get it worked out. It really helped having a couple other carbs to compare it to. There must be quite a few variations on those carbs.

 

[tmorrow]

my cub cadet wants to fire up but it just keeps on fireing and won't start. I have a battery charger hooked up and hpeing that will help it get it going

 

[dvogt]

Todd I wouldn't call that a vacume leak , its the air corection circuit. its kinda nice to have that. any time you change something to make more HP. theres a fuel adjustments that need to be made so you get your jetting correct. it can be a very time consuming problem at times.

Typler , are you getting gas? is it fresh gas? how long has it been since it ran last? do you have a good spark? if its been sitting for any length of time it probably needs fresh gas & a carb rebuild, maybe a tune up & a new plug. you don't give very much info in your posts & its hard to figure out whats wrong.

 

[farmall gray]

Don,
I guess I should have called it an air bleed.
That carb came from a 149 that ran good but needed rebuilt. I guess with the modifications I
made, my engine must require a lot more fuel at idle than before.

 

[dvogt]

what mods did you make to the hi speed circuit?

 

[wcompton]

What would you guys recommend for filling in imperfections in intake port walls? The only thing I've looked up that I'd think would last would be Devcon Titanium Putty. Any ideas?

 

[gjohnson]

Jb weld Oringal[sp]

 

[tmorrow]

Don Vogt when i turn the key it just wants to turn over but it can't. it ran last tuesday and the week before o.k.i just put new gas in it a few days ago. it makes a chuging noise when you turn the key. the guy who i bought it from said he redid the engin including the carb, and the plug.

 

[dvogt]

Tyler first I'd make sure al your battery connections are good , including the ground at the frame , remove it & clean it with a wire brush if in doubt. make sure the contact to the fram is good also. next I'd look at the ign. timing to make sure its not advanced to far. point gap of .020 is a good quik check , if its wider than that close it up. then my guess would be compression release. you can take the cam cover off to see if the weioghts are stuck out or if the spring came off.

 

[dvogt]

Wyatt , We just use a 2 part epoxy from the F&F speed shop also known as Fleet & Farm. its like a putty , you just squeeze it together so its blended nice and fit it in.

 

[wcompton]

Don-
In the counterbore for the valve guide, to smooth that area out with putty, is it enough to just "dimple" the surface with a small carbide burr to get the putty to stay?

 

[dvogt]

I think the rough casting & the guide itself would be enough to hold it in

 

[wcompton]

Thanks Don,
I know on automotive heads, many times putting in some small screws or pins to keep the putty anchored is usually required with products like Devcon epoxies.

 

[kweaver]

Wyatt - since there's graphite present in the casting you need to at least rough it with a burr then clean well with acetone. I'd then take an automatic center punch and stipple it at angles to raise points. Tapping in tiny set screws would be good too IF you want to take the chance of something going wrong. It could cause it to crack when heated since the screws will not heat the same as the casting. I'd hate to see the JBcan't Weld come lose too though. Of course you could always have it powder welded then machined back out to your specs ... it's only (your) money.

 

[dfrisk]

Wyatt - Weaver's right. Devcon or JB weld could cause problems if something came loose in the port. Not like you'd have pistons bouncing off valves but if something got into the bore it could cause problems at TDC. Son read something about casting alum. into the oversized ports of a V-8 car engine, Pour the molten alum. right into the port, let it cool & grind away with your Dremel! Ken's right, Metal Spray or Spray welding would work best. It's the ONLY process I've ever seen an OEM approve to fix a machining screw-up on an expensive part.

 

[wcompton]

Weighing all my options, considered the price of spray welding, pouring metal, etc. This afternoon I ended up talking to some folks I've worked with at my previous employment and asked what's done on prototype heads for cracks, imperfections, and recontouring in intake ports. They use JB weld if it's impractical to get in with a welder, I was told it was a sort of a "bailing wire and bubblegum" type fix and it only lasts a couple hundred hours. Perfect, after a couple hundred hours I'm sure I'll be ready for something more radical.

What I've done is taken a 1/8" diametrer carbide burr and put deep dimples for the JB weld to adhere to. The block gets baked out tomorrow and I'll swab it off with acetone before epoxy application. I'll trust it enough for my pocketbook.

 

[farmall gray]

Don,
I haven't changed anything in the high speed
circuit. It seems to be within the realm of the
adjustment screw. I can make it too rich or too lean with the screw. BTW, I got it back together
yesterday after closing up that air bleed with JB
weld and I can make it idle fine even down to about 500 RPM.

 

[gjohnson]

I've run the jb weld for 1 season with no trouble not saying that something can't happen. I had the block cleaned at the machine shop then used laquer thinner to clean the block. I only put it in the intake take port thinking that the ex port would get too hot and just burn out.I did only half of the port at a time because the jb weld will settle.I filled up to the top valve guide and tried to maintain the same size port from the carb to the valve. this is my 2 cent I'm sure that there are alot of people on here that can tell you more. Hope this will help and if I'm wrong I'm sure that someone will chime in. Good luck Greg

 

[gjohnson]

Don ....Have you seen the water cooled H.D. in any pullers yet?

 

[dvogt]

Greg , no I haven't , although my local dealer offered me a engine for one if I wanted to build it. it was very tempting to take him up on it but we don't have the time to get what we have to get done finished

I have 2 seasons in my J2 block with epoxy in the port.

Todd , there must still be something wrong in your carb. you shouldn't have to do that. you may find other problems when you start using it. a dynos nice for this because you can map your exhoust temp.