Hydraulic power unit

[kweaver]

Michael - You're backwards on your theory of the solenoid. It engerizes to open the line letting the pressure off. That way it can sit for days without heating up the solenoid coil Mine is that way anyway. The pressure let off will be slow , to slow for my liking on my unit. There will be some sort of metered valve inline with the solenoid for pressure release flow.

I have wanted to plumb mine into a valve body to work a DA cylinder so I can have 2 way power. Just haven't had the spare money yet for the hoses,

Glad you got something to work with.

 

[mmiller]

Ken,
That makes alot more sense.

On the lowering rate, the solenoid valve (or the cylinder) must have the metering built in, since there is nothing else in the lines between the cylinder and the reservoir.

OK, so new theory of control: Start the pump and the unit raises, stop the pump and the unit remains at that height. Engage the N.C. solenoid valve and the unit lowers. (The control box is missing; I'm thinking of using a pendant type control box on it.)

BTW, this table was made in Denmark and was sold in the US by Colson Corp. Heavy duty; rated at 2500# capacity. It has a mix of Danish and US parts...the motor is Danish 3-phase 360v, and the pump is a Cessna similar to the one on my Johnson Loader.

 

[mmiller]

I've made some progress on the Cub lift.

The one remaining task is to fix the solenoid valve. Because this thing was made in Denmark, I can't find an exact replacement, or even anything close. I'm going to rewind the solenoid coil myself so wish me luck!

 

[kweaver]

Michael - That things lookin sweet with that new paint, you sure you're gonna use it ?
I use to wind burnt transformers, just gotta count the windings and use the same gauge wire. I never could get the hang of the mathamatics of figuring up what I needed to wrap my own.

Hey what's this cute little feller ?

 

[mmiller]

Ken, you don't miss much! That's a very old Mahr Millimess 1003 Dial Comparator...direct reading to 0.00005"
Here's a link if you're interested:
http://www.mahr.com/index.php?NodeID=5223

I miked the old coil wire; it's 32AWG and there were thousands of turns on the bobbin. I'm just going to fill it up to the old level...gotta end up with +/- a couple of percent of the original.

That color is IH red; by the time I get the top painted IH white, I won't want to push a tractor onto it for fear of leaving tire marks!

 

[kweaver]

Thought it kinda looked like a comparator from the size of it but I hadn't seen a dial like that.
I made up an aluminum block with a dial indicator to measure the head stamp thickness of 22 shells for a target shooter (it does affect accuracy) is that why you've got that cheap version

A slow rpm lathe works good for coil winding. I've got a 365:1 gear box if ya don't have a lathe ... it only weighs about 1 pound per ratio

 

[mmiller]

Yep...I use that to check the rims for my Winchester 52! Actually, I inherited it from my dad...the only chance I've had to use it is for checking headspace gages. BTW, you just can't trust a certain manufacturer's gages that are sold by Brownells. I bought the set of match .308 gages and they're off +/- .0015, with the 1.632 actually being smaller than the 1.631!

 

[mmiller]

Oh yeah, I'm making a fixture that bolts to the tool post on my 10" South Bend. I'll put it in back gear and this fixture should guide the wire and tension it too. I tried winding it once by hand and that didn't turn out too well; after the first thousand turns my hands got tired!

 

[kweaver]

I've never bought anything from Brownells. When I use to fool around with target shooting I'd bore my chambers with a bar rather than buy a chambering cutter. oops that's a gun thread aint it

My hands cramp up bad and my thumb pulls down flat into the palm when I try to hold wire to wind a coil ... or just about anything else that I do for that matter.
It'd be nice to have the lead screw set to travel at the diameter of the wire then trip and go into reverse when it got to the end of the spool then repeat ... a couple of micro switches and a solenoid to trip the lead lever ... aw that's to much work !

I set up a micro switch on my 13x40 Enco with a drill once when I was cutting alot of threads for a shop down the road, I pulled the handle off and let the drill pull the tool out at the end of the cuts. It made nice clean thread endings. I did more lathe work for that machine shop than they did their self. I usally used their 12' SB Tornado though... wish I'd bought that big sucker when they shut down.

 

[mmiller]

I was thinking the same thing...I've got a gear combo on the quick change box that matches the diameter of the wire. Problem is the bobbin is about 2" long and I would always be starting, stopping, and reversing the gear train. Not real easy on the SB10K.

My solution is a fixture that has a wire guide riding on a shaft. The guide has a wing on top and bottom. The guide can rotate on the shaft so that each wing can be made to engage a small lead screw. There are two lead screws; one RH threaded and one LH threaded. While I'm winding, I can hold one wing up against it's lead screw and wind in one direction, then flip the guide over to the other lead screw to change directions.

I actually thought about using cams to toggle the wire guide between each lead screw automatically, but that's way too much work for one coil.

 

[kweaver]

That's still a lot of work for one coil but let's see a pic of the setup when you get it going.

I don't know what model my old SB is. No gear box, 11" swing. It has factory riser blocks under the head and tailstock but it looks like a 9". It's old and getting wore out.

 

[bmoore]

Uncle Grumpy,
Are you familiar with these guys?http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/ Lots of stuff there.
If it has a serial number, this will give you an idea about its age, so you can figure out the model more easily. http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page19.html

 

[kweaver]

Bruce - Yep, been there and saved files 7/4/99

 

[kweaver]

... and my lathe is a (ser# 78493) = 1937. Model ? Mine does swing 11".

<font color="0000ff">By the late 1930s South Bend had two 9-inch lathes in production: the lighter 9-inch "Workshop" model introduced in 1934 as the Model 504 and the very much heavier Type R, a lathe also built as an 11-inch model</font>

 

[mmiller]

I finally found some time to work on the lift table. I gave up on making a coil winder and just wound the solenoid coil by hand on the lathe. It's not pretty, but it works. I plumbed up everything, filled the resevoir with hydraulic fluid, wired up the motor and controls, and pressed the up button....it actually rose up! Down button works too! And it will hold it's elevation for at least a week without a load on it. That's as far as I've checked it.

Now I'm fabing some table extensions. The original table was only 24" wide. The finished table will be 42"x68"; big enough to hold my 2185, which is my biggest tractor.