I got a blade with a parts tractor (1650 with dual hyd) that I bought. The blade is badly rusted but still usable and most of my use will be dirt moving. Ditches on a half-mile of road. It was a 42" and I wanted to make it 48" and also put ends on it like an angle dozer blade. I also wanted to add tilt to it. I think everyone can figure out the process that I used from the attached pictures. The first wood apparatus shown is how I got the right angle on the ends of the blade. The"wings" are dual purpose and are mounted with two bolts each. I use one when the blade is angled to clean or dig a ditch. The wing keeps the dirt from spilling around the leading end of the blade. With both wings on I have basically a box blade. The second wood apparatus I used to find that to give one inch of tilt to the blade the outer edge of the 8" circle moved 3/16". Used that to space the tilt holes. Someone in our area cuts a lot of different size holes in 3/4 inch steel and brings the drops to the local scrapyard. They have crates of those circles. I also made the blade quick attach with the underframe staying on the tractor. By the way, I got the engine in the "parts" tractor running and everything seemed so good I bought another parts tractor. Considering selling this 1650 because I don't like the hydro control on the right side making it hard to use blade control and hydro at the same time. Plus I am used to my three 149s. Any questions hit me with them. Didn't know that I could only post 10 files so will do another post with the rest of the pictures.
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Front Blade
- Thread starter jnolen
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That's pretty cool.
hydroharry
Well-known member
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- Harry Bursell
Kraig - can you combine his thread for Front Blade and Front Blade #2
I can move a thread but have not yet figured out if I can combine them. I believe it can be done, might have to have Angie do it.
Jim,Awesome engineering.....and somebody snickered at my front wheel on pull type leaf sucker.....
mfrade
Well-known member
Pretty clever!
Looks good, but, you are gonna need a LOT of traction and weight plus good tires to push that through very much dirt.
Anyone that has run a dozer, especially a cable operated rig, (where I cut my teeth, thanks Uncle Sam) knows what I am saying here
You need to constantly know what your machine is doing and anticipate just what it will be doing just inches down the path you are taking.
There is a very fine line between dozing and spinning and you want to avoid the latter as things go south from that point very quickly.
Anyone that has run a dozer, especially a cable operated rig, (where I cut my teeth, thanks Uncle Sam) knows what I am saying here
You need to constantly know what your machine is doing and anticipate just what it will be doing just inches down the path you are taking.
There is a very fine line between dozing and spinning and you want to avoid the latter as things go south from that point very quickly.
I believe it could be done w/o too much trouble.
Real PITA to get at the components though what with the dash, firewall, fuel tank and all.
You may have to shorten the sleeve for the 2nd stick and move the holes for the spirol pins unless yours has the clamp style linkage
Real PITA to get at the components though what with the dash, firewall, fuel tank and all.
You may have to shorten the sleeve for the 2nd stick and move the holes for the spirol pins unless yours has the clamp style linkage
Yes, I learned to operate a bulldozer on a Cat D6 cable blade. Spent many hours on dozers. And I used this blade before modifying it. I've got windshield washer fluid in the tires and four slabs of 3/4" steel as spacers (so the valve stems will clear the brakes) on the inside to the wheels. I plan to pour some weights with concrete that form to the deep dish of the wheel and then stick out about three inches also. I also have individual brakes so that helps when working a ditch slope. Little rascal will move more dirt than most people think it will. It's been raining so much since I got it modified that I haven't been able to put it in the ground.
Thumbs up!!
I am fine with the hydraulic controls on the right side but don't want the hydrostat control on the right side also. On my 149's I can work the hydraulic control for the blade with my right hand while steering with my left hand and controlling my travel by using the fingers of my left hand, all at the same time. I thought about making a foot control for the hydrostat but since I have a pedal on each side for individual brakes I would run out of feet there. Lots of times while working making or maintaining ditches, I need to change blade height, change travel speed, steer, and apply a brake to stop one wheel from spinning all at the same time. It gets interesting. But I've gotten pretty good at steering and working the hydrostat control at the same time using my left hand. Couldn't do that with the 1650.
