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Ford Truck Help

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VINCE, ART - Forget where I read it, maybe it was here, but those serpentine belts actually only LOOK like they will wear forever. The little ribs wear on the sides and stop contacting the sides of the grooves in the pulleys and then it's just the flat surface of the belt driving the pulleys by the tension the belt tensioner imparts. Causes them to slip even more.

I think it was GATES, the creator of the serpentine style belt still recommends replacing them every 50,000-60,000 miles. I hope they don;t think I'm a Bad Person because my 15 yr od Powerstroke with 300K on the clock still has the factory installed belt on it yet. No cracks on the ribs at all. The new belt I stuck under the seat is probably 8-9 yrs old now. Also have a new tensioner pulley, Cam position sensor, and a fuel filter, all the tools to change those parts out, and a gallon jug of oil.

I did read a marketing ad on the PSD back in '95 or '96 that IH actually tested the serpentine belts to make sure they lasted at least 100,000 miles. I'd say they hit their target!
 
I have an 08 F-150 with the 4.6 v8 and looks like I need to change the intake gasket. Replacing coils today from rough running and the leak is worse than I thought. I've only added a half gallon of coolant since last fall but I'm finding wet coils.
My question is to anyone with the engine in a crown Vic, Mercury, etc how long does it take to replace? I've read up and will be doing it myself, but it's my only vehicle and I have to line up another to borrow if it's more than a couple days. I know I'll find other parts to replace on the way, so if anyone has any suggestions please, I really appreciate it!
 
Earl: I drive a 1997 MGM that had the intake manifold replaced just before I bought the car in 2014 with 54,000 miles on it. It was a major repair.

I've replaced an intake manifold gasket on a Rocket 350 Oldsmobile engine which was leaking so badly the intake had to be machined to get the warp out. The (unanticipated) machining alone added several days to the project as I recall.

If the manifold on the 4.6 is plastic, then you are probably better off time-wise to replace the whole thing. I think this was the route taken by the former owners of my car.

In any case, I would visit some Ford forums to try to gain insight from other's experiences. It seems to be a known issue with 4.6 motors of a certain vintage.

Finally, I know we have at least two other forum members with P71 versions of this motor, you might try contacting them directly.

A forum, or Data Page, is even recommended at: Interceptor Info --Once there, do a search on "Intake Manifold Replacement Pictures"

The link above was shared by a Forum member on this page in the Sandbox: Crown Vics P71

Good Luck.
 
Earl,

I replaced the intake manifold on my 2000 P71 Crown Vic. It still had the early all plastic intake that finally started spraying coolant into the alternator. To remove everything including the intake and put it all back together took about 8 hours total. I used the Dorman intake manifold which uses O-Ring style seals for everything on the intake, you don't have to get the separate gasket kit. I also recommend replacing the heater return pipe and o-rings. This is in the valley and are known to leak. To replace the pipe and rings, the intake has to come off. I would say if you have everything on hand, it can easily be done in a day. It's not a difficult job, (this was the first one that I have done) it's just time consuming because of unbolting everything, then putting it all back.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

I also have experience in using the spark plug repair kit on this same engine......
 
Thank you Jeremiah and Nic! I'm going to order a new plastic intake then, and the pipe. Was going to a big swap meet in 2 weeks, but not anymore!
I've done some research on it, looked on YouTube and a Ford truck forum, but was only a general offering of knowledge.
I knew some on here had the P-71 and that engine is very close to mine, at least in this respect. I've used the spark plug repair kit before, on a few different 5.4 and 4.6 v8's in a few different vehicles. Boy is that something, I guess it's better than pulling the head and machining. Mine came out ok at around 100k. Got 136k on it now. Well I'll let you know how it turns out when I actually get to it on the weekend of the 29-30, if it can hold off that long
 
You guys need to remove the radiator cap and drive a CHEVY under it and all will good to go in the world!
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Well I've ordered parts, Dorman brand intake and several other parts to make my life easier on install.
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No Paul, but I'll look him up. I just did a general 'Ford 4.6 intake gasket repair' and came closest with a 02 f150. But I'll end up looking again now thanks!}
 
Well broke off 4 of 8 intake bolts and last one head rounded off on. Otherwise would have been an afternoon job. Looking for bolt extractor for the rounded bolt and then will look how bad the broken ones are once the intake is out.
 
Earl F. I should have reminded you to put moderate pulling pressure on the bolt and then have someone tap the top of the wrench. I learned that over the years. Some will disagree however it's worked for me.
 
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The coolant leak had to have lasted longer than I thought. I should have done that too Marlin. I waited much too long unfortunately. Well, it'll take longer, maybe require engine removal, but I'll get it done. Have next weekend off, so more fun will be had! There would be no experience worth having if life went right all the time, I would probably die of boredom, lol.
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On a bright note, I did put parts in labeled baggies for reassembly! Learned from a recent buddy's project
 
And engine will be prepped for removal tomorrow. Welded nuts on 5 broken bolts and weld connected, breaking off more of the broken bolts without budging in the head. Even used heat on the head to free up the area around the bolt. Any hotter and I could have melted the aluminum heads. Simple this job is not. No wonder my shop quoted $2400+ for replacing the intake. Must have included an engine block too.
While I still have my buddy's welder, I'll be taking care of a couple small cub projects too. Bright side had to be somewhere in this.
 
Earl F. A coworker told me when they remove the frozen bolts on steam engines and other equipment they heat the bolt up to almost red hot and then quickly pour water onto the bolt. Mike said the bolt/nut is heated to a yellowish turning to red and then doused with water. He said that a portable impact gun does the rest.
 
Hmm. I'll look at that Marlin, thanks! Buying a new vehicle isn't in the budget anytime soon.
 
Some other good news for me. A friend of a friend is willing to try my broken bolts issue in the truck. I have to get it to him first. Rain is really dampening my progress. He's a machinist so I'm hoping for the best!

For anyone else who may have this problem, PLEASE don't wait! That's what had to have done me in. I should have done this 6 months ago when I first noticed it. I only added a half gallon of coolant since November, but it most likely didn't matter.
 
Earl F. It's been raining and cold all weekend. And I had to install front brakes and power steering hoses on the Dakota. There went all but $60.00 of my yearly bonus.
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My friend got the bolts out!!!
It's back together, but I think I missed a seal on the thermostat housing. Bringing back home today on a trailer. And it seems I'm replacing at least one fuel injector, misses below 2000 rpms. I might just replace all 8 though. 137k miles couldn't hurt. I really don't want or need to replace the truck. Fixing the leak first then see where I go from there.
 

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