Cub Cadet 582 with handyman parts.

[dkline]

I bought a project tractor, I guess. My first small tractor.
Runs, but needs help. And I need help helping it!
Many original parts are missing, and some handyman replacements almost do the job.
Has original Briggs engine

Known immediate task list:
1. Clean gas tank
2. Clean carburetor
3. Change front tire
4. Thoroughly inspect drive train
5. Remove remnant electrical additions
6. Replace failed center frame cover

I have finally figured out how to manipulate photos to make them work on this site. (site needs updating!)

+++ jpeg +++ 311903 +++ Close up of 3 point hitch
assembly +++

 

[kmcconaughey]

Daniel, that rear lift appears to be a modified Sears CAT-0 lift. Interesting setup. Sure looks funny without the rear fender pan.

Did the PO remount the front axle farther forward?

 

[dkline]

For some reason the titles for the photos do not show up. You can see above the sheet metal cover that needs replacing. It hangs down and hits the flexible joint in the drive shaft.

Here is the close up assembly of the three point hitch that failed to show in the above post.

Here is the mess of wiring under the seat. Part goes to the winch on the hitch and its switch on the right fender. I have no idea what the rest is for.

 

[dkline]

Interesting question, Kraig, about the front end being moved forward. I do know the seller bought this to do competitive pulling. He said when he got it it did not have fenders or any of the other attachments for mower or anything.
Here is what it looks like from front

 

[eford]

I think it has been moved forward. For the short term, and depending on what attachments you want to use, should be workable. I would start with getting the wiring cleaned up, maybe abandon the winch for now and get the unit in working order. After your satisfied with how it runs,drives and steers, then look at other parts of it. Don't remove (unless you don't want it on there) the winch/3 point for now, just leave alone until after the initial needed work.

You can still find most parts for this tractor. I don't know what your skill level is for concocting or building, but you could do a whole mess of things, such as that 3 point conversion, to suit your needs. Ask away with anything you have questions for. I'd follow the wiring with working on the carb

 

[eford]

Daniel, I wish you were closer, I'd help you out with a fender pan and tunnel cover, maybe even a manual lift if I had one.
Oh and CC Specialties is a great resource for parts! Charlie is awesome!!!

 

[dkline]

another thing-- it is loud.
Here is a look at the muffler
You can also see that the crankcase breathers are not attached to the carburetor.

 

[eford]

When you pull the air cleaner assembly off, that's where the tubes attach underneath, take a good look around the muffler. It looks intact on the outside, you would see carbon buildup (black marks) from any seam or joint that's leaking. I'm guessing the guts might be blown out and you're essentially running straight through exhaust. Also, I don't see a PTO on the front of the engine. Has it been removed?

For any sort of assembly or part you have problems identifying, use the parts lookup above and it can clear things up.

 

[dkline]

Thank you so much, Earl for the offer of help. Fact is we are scattered all over the country.
I hope to check out parts dealers after I get the basics taken care of. I can work just fine without nice fenders and beautiful paint. Just not my first choice, but then I rarely get first choices!

 

[dkline]

This is another look at the tractor. It seems to show that much work was done with parts now missing. We can also see the relation of the front axle to the chassis.

 

[eford]

Using the cub cadet parts look up, find parts by model, go to garden tractor, then 1604, they have multiple similar models under the same category. Also, a manual or two will help tremendously on any work you'd like to accomplish. Go to the manuals section lower on down topics page and see what you can find. Or order physical copy from sponsor up above binder books

 

[dkline]

Here is a close in look at the front of the engine.

 

[eford]

On the right hand foot rest, as sitting on the tractor, the marks are visible for the missing manual lift. Yes, front axle is a few inches forward of stock location.

What you have can definitely work. Without a PTO you can't use powered attachment like mower, snow thrower, rototiller, etc. But you have a good machine there.

I have to ask what you would want to use it for, for further suggestions on replacing or repairing. Maybe you don't need a PTO then. If you find yourself around McHenry, IL, and have some space for parts in the car....

 

[eford]

Front looks good and crankshaft. PTO is long gone. You might consider finding a parts unit at some point. But that's down the road still.

 

[dkline]

Thanks, Earl.
I have already downloaded the operators manual and the service manual.
I just need to spend more time in them.
Most of the service manual covers the other two models included. It is easy to get lost in the PDF. I think I will need to print just the pages with 582 info.

 

[dkline]

I wonder if moving the front end would affect the turning radius. I noticed that it turns much sharper one way than the other. It may just need some adjustment.

The other thing I noticed, while in 3rd gear driving down the street, the tractor would bounce up and down. This was not noticeable in second gear. I have not checked to see if air is in the back tires, or some liquid.

 

[dkline]

My planned uses for this tractor include grading the gravel driveway to help with pot holes and weed control. Also I hope to get a dump trailer to haul stuff around.
The first big task will be to move some soil. The tractor will pull the soil I load on a slip. Should be able to pull the slip across the lawn with little damage. I could have paid a contractor to move the soil, but there would be no tractor!

 

[eford]

No that's great news and you'll be happy with the tractor! Your turning radius is bigger now due to wheel base being lengthened. It's normal for them to turn more one way than other.
You can play with the tie rod ends, including between front axle and steering box, and gain equality.
I'm betting you have some fluid in the rears, can be good for traction, but I'd take weights off first and eliminate the possibilities. If you had another set of rear tires with no fluid, I would try those to be positive it's not just the rear wheels.
Unfortunately on the front you have no way of mounting any attachments now. I don't have a pic handy of what I mean, but you could search for 82 series and see what I mean. They can be put back, with welding and putting axle back, and welding, and regain stock usability.
OR
Figure out the rear hitch and use a rear mount grader blade. This is simpler and easier in my opinion. Search bring grader blade and you will probably like what you find.

 

[eford]

Not a real good shot, but this is now dad's 1450 with a 42 inch push blade on it. Your original front axle location would be further back like this. I replaced the original front axle with a better style from a model 1541 to gain more turning radius. The bungee cord is holding the quick attach in the locked position, my springs broke in that and I haven't replaced yet. And you can see the carbon marks from the exhaust I was talking about on the white grill

 

[eford]

This is a better shot of my 1200. Look up front and you'll see on the frame my mower deck undercarriage is mounted the same as any front mount attachment you could use.