Cub Cadet 582 with handyman parts.

[eford]

Or find another rim. Try some local dealers to see if they have anything used hanging around for cheap. You may find the whole package no work needed.

 

[eford]

One thing to consider is what the wheel comes off of if you go that route. I put a simplicity front wheel on a JD last year. Offset was different but it stuck out from the tractor slightly more but didn't interfere with anything.
Another option is welding closed the original hole and redrilling it possibly.
A generic front tire, your size, is about$30 at my local farm store. Replacing it is probably the easiest and simplest way.

 

[mgonitzke]

That is the stock location for the valve stem. I have put tubes in many of those rims. Many other lawn and garden tractor rims have it in a similar location, and all of them will pull the valve stem into the tire if you don't hold onto it when you start airing it up.

I'd mount it yourself or find a new place to get them mounted...that guy sounds like he's not very competent.

 

[dkline]

Thank you all for the encouragement.
I will attempt it myself. This tire is too good to toss and I just need to get to work.
The largest CC dealer in the area has two tubes available, one is longer valve stem for an extra $2. Seems the way to go.
My hand pump had a pressure dial, so with some slickener this tire should go on. I have a bottle of very slippery stuff should help if I can keep it off my hands!!! I got it to get something rubber down a cast iron drain pipe. should be OK

 

[eford]

That sounds better than the soapy water I usually use! Matt has a great point on holding onto the stem. I put a really small hose clamp on the stem before I aired it up, and removed afterwards. Learned that when I lost the stem 2 years ago, still holding air though in that tire.
Good luck!

 

[mgonitzke]

They also make a tool to hold onto the valve stem and keep it from falling through. This one is kind of fancy, but you get the idea.

Valve Stem Puller

 

[ewells]

Matt that tool is great for removing or installing tubeless valve stems but does not help in holding the valve of a tube. No provision for applying air to the tube.

 

[mgonitzke]

Correct. Most of the time when I've lost the valve stem is when I'm mounting the bead and I don't have a hand to hold the valve stem like I do when airing up the tire. Pliers work good after the tire is mounted.

 

[bigsteve]

Daniel They make a tool that removes broken valve cores that also rethreads the stem. I use that to hold the stem in hole till I get tire mounted then use a small needle nosed visegripes to hold stem in while airing tire up.

 

[sblunier]

AutoEC 4-in-1 Tire Valve Stem Core Remover - Tire Repair Tool

 

[mhomrighausen]

Steve B. Somewhere I have an old version of that tool with a small piece of cable on it. I've looked for years and can't find any like though.

 

[dkline]

Did the tire mount myself. The slippery product can be found at plumbing stores. It surely made the work easy. First side went on without tools; washed that side to remove lube. Tube went in; 4 inch vice grip on the stem. Pumped up and then deflated. once I figured how to keep one screwdriver steady, the other side went on pretty easy. Installed the bearings with some new grease & she looks quite good, though the rest seems embarrassingly shoddy nest to it.

 

[eford]

I'm glad you had success!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Daniel K. Congratulations!!!

Once again asking a lot of questions and patience pays off.

 

[dkline]

I have been running my 582 several hours. It starts well if the battery charge is full. Needs a new battery. I just checked out the "battery" thread on this site. That part is easy.
My main issue is vibration noise. Seems the main drive shaft is way out of balance. When the vibration commences the noise of the machine triples.
What do you all suggest as a way to solve this problem? It may even be that I am looking at it all wrong. Remember this is the first tractor like machine I have ever owned, so my "reading the machine" skills are weak.
But my rhino hide is strong. Hit me with the truth! LOL.

 

[eford]

If you grab hold of the engine and try to shake it side to side, does it move?

 

[eford]

It's possible the engine mounting bolts are loose. A full visual inspection of the drive shaft could point to any pins and other mounting parts. Being a 582 pulling off the tunnel cover will show you the drive shaft. Cover is on frame between seat and dash tower. Hopefully it's something as simple as this and tightening some bolts will fix it.

 

[dkline]

OK I found the two rear motor mount bolts in place, but the nuts were missing. Getting to the one behind the starter proved to be a challenge. Finally we undid all bolts and raised the motor an inch to be able to get fingers to the bolt to start a lock nut. It took all afternoon, but we got it done. A friend lost some skin on the edge of the flywheel shroud before I took a file to it. I got it started back up just as the thunderstorm was arriving blasting pollen into my eyes in the fierce gusts prior to the raindrops. Got it under cover in time and tools all put away before the deluge! Yea! Thank you all for your support!

 

[eford]

Daniel excellent! My friend and I found that on a 1650 he had. 1 of 4 bolts holding engine oil pan to cradle rails on that model.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Daniel K. Keep plugging away. You'll have that 582 running like new when you're finished and it will be one super Cub Cadet.