Cranky K341

[kphill]

Hey dale, how do you adjust a hole?...LOL

 

[dmerkle]

Dale, I have been working on engines for 45 years.. I recently retired as an assembler of 4400 hp. Diesel locomotive engines.. I am trying to help this poor guy get his engine running not confuse him even more..

I've been working on gasoline engines for 52 years. I've taught classes and did seminars on small engines. Diesel engines are different than a gas engine.
Like you I am trying to help this poor guy out.
A gasoline engine needs air-fuel-spark......not just fuel,spark,and timing as stated in and earlier post.

Hey dale, how do you adjust a hole?...LOL

There is more to setting a carb than high-low speed air-fuel settings and idle speed. You are trying to over engineer what an engine needs to run.

 

[kphill]

I am trying to simplify it for this guy so he can get it to run and then be able to see what he needs.. and of course and engine needs air to run.. everyone knows that.. the only thing that will restrict air on these engines is a dirty filter and I am shure he has already checked that.. and yes I work on gas engines as well and still rebuild them..

 

[Jim Saunders]

So................the ongoing saga of the dead 1650.

Yesterday, I checked the ground wire and other wires for breaks and chaffing. The ground wire from the battery had some slight corrosion. Today, I also checked the spark using the new spark plug wire and jumped the ground [base of plug] to a ground wire. The plug fired but did not spark white but a dull red. I cleaned the plug as it had some soot on it. I don't know if that's normal? I set the carb to the nominal settings suggested in the service manual. I rechecked the valves for the proper settings. Intake .09 and the exhaust was at .018. Breather seemed ok.
Fired that bad boy up and damn it started right up. It took a couple of min for it to warm up and the engine sounded healthy. This Cub 1650 had been sitting in a barn for 10 years and just need some TLC. It took a lot of skill to get this Cub going. Thanks to you guys and your many recommendations .....it was a concerted effort.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

[JPrattico]

 

[lpalma]

glad you got it running, sometimes it is the simple things that work the best... KISS

 

[gary noblit]

Jim, that's awesome and I'll bet you learned a lot...

 

[Jim Saunders]

I did learn a lot on this 1650. I think that it was a bunch of little things that kept the tractor from running. Or....maybe just one major thing and we hit on it through all the recommendations. I bought the 1650 with a belly mower a tiller [type 2] and a plow. The Cub also came with a set of weighted rear tires. I bought the package for $1500, could not pass that up even if the engine was not running quite right. Next project, hitch up the tiller for the garden. Spring is just around the corner.



Jim

 

[gary noblit]

Jim, that's what I meant about analysis is a process.Sometimes very frustrating but eventually you get there.If I may be so bold as to suggest: I believe you said this was new to you so a complete look at all service possibles as in oil,filters,grease etc.is in your best interests.I work on a lot of different mowers and actually believe they are the most abused machines we possess. Preventative maintenance matters !!! Sounds like you've got a good machine and attachments...enjoy !!

 

[jpaulus]

PLEASE STOP THE PISSING CONTEST. YOU FOLKS ARE LOWERING MY OPINION OF THIS GROUP

 

[JPrattico]

I don't see any issues here? Owner of the tractor managed to got it running, Gary Noblit gave a bit more advice to go over the rest of the tractor and make sure everything is in good working order. Which is a very good point, since the owner is still new to the machine. Yes there was bickering earlier on in the post, but it seems to have stopped at this point. What exactly is the issue?

And to the OP, congrats on getting it running right. Once you look through the rest of the machine and get it and the implements in good, working order, you'll have a nice machine that'll serve you well for many years to come!

One last suggestion, may want to look into replacing the engine ISO mounts if you haven't already. If they are bad, the engine won't sit right in the frame and the driveshaft won't be aligned properly, causing premature driveline wear.

 

[Jim Saunders]

Friday morning, 34 degrees, as a dare went out to the Cub.....pulled out the choke and within 5 seconds the engine started. Today, change the oil and grease the fittings. These Cubs are really cool. Think I'm hooked.

ISO mounts?....need to do some research.


Jim

 

[JPrattico]

Right, quick search through CC Specialties and I got these:

There's 4 ISO mounts total. They bolt onto the tractor frame and the cradle that bolts to the bottom of the engine. Their purpose is to reduce vibration from the engine by isolating it with rubber mounts. You CAN also solid mount them with steel mounts instead of rubber, but I personally would go with the rubber mounts.

I'm not an expert on these since I don't own a Quietline, but Charlie's CubFaq should be able to explain everything I can't: Iso Mounts

 

[gary noblit]

PLEASE STOP THE PISSING CONTEST. YOU FOLKS ARE LOWERING MY OPINION OF THIS GROUP

Need some humor,,Mark Twain (really) "He who pitheth up a wall will end up with stinking feet" and "tis a foolish sailor who would spit into the wind"...He didn't own a cub but he understood male ego...

 

[kphill]

Sorry if I left the wrong impression.. Didn't mean for it to do that.. We are all here for the betterment of our odd obsession with these little tractors... lol

 

[Jim Saunders]

On the ISO mounts...Do I need to remove the engine or can I slide them in between the engine and frame. Is there a way to inspect the mounts to see if their shot? Trying to get smart, I'm sure David Kirk has something to say about ISO mounts.



Jim

 

[mgonitzke]

You'll want to remove the engine so you can do the "cradle mod" in the link in JPrattico's post.

 

[Greg Riutzel]

On the ISO mounts

I just did mine on my 1650 last summer. It will go much easier with the engine out and you can inspect all potential worn areas such as the cradle mounting bolts in the oil pan. What I found with mine was the oil pan's mounting bolt holes for the cradle were galled out. Apparently the previous owner had run the machine for many seasons with shot rubber isolators and the bolts worked loose as well. The aluminum pan was toast, no meat for oversize or thread inserts. I was able to find a cast iron pan that I think is way better. I did not do the cradle mod. From many hours of research I believe the intent of the mod is to prevent the rails from rocking independently due to worn mounts and hardware and thus ruining oil pans as well. The "bridge" in the mod locks them into a single unit and thus they're stiffer as a system rather than separate. Time was getting short and I needed it running; that and it wasn't broke from the factory. I'll probably get some heat for not doing it but it is a good idea. These larger single cylinder engines have a lot of vibration. I'm working to keep things checked and tight more often so it doesn't go south again; just some added items plus the oil checks/changes, tires, filters, etc.

 

[Beltrack]

Had an interesting affliction with my 109 a few years ago that may or may not be applicable to your issue.



This problem went on for several years. The engine cranked very slowly and often required jumper cables. I replaced the battery and that didn’t change anything. I took the starter/ generator to a local automotive electric shop (back when there were such things) for rebuild. No changes. The engine also had the peculiar habit of backfiring after I turned it off. I chalked that up to perhaps a burnt exhaust valve and considered that that may be the whole problem. But other than these two issues, the engine ran fine. Fortunately, laziness prevented me from doing a valve job for years. I just lived with the problem. One day I decided to time the engine using my timing light. I darkened the garage, hooked up the light, started her up, sat down on my milk crate stool and noticed sparking under the fender where the battery ground cable was attached. A loose ground was the problem and had been all of those years. That, of course, caused the poor cranking speed, but also, I guess, served as an additional set of points which caused a random spark of the spark plug which was the backfire issue.

 

[Jim Saunders]

Guess I should back up a little......

When I first joined the forum [Feb 11 2021] I had a problem with my Cub 1650. New to the structure of this forum I just started to ask questions in the Introduction section. What I should have done is introduce myself and then go to a more appropriate place to ask all the questions and receive help. So . . . . . . . . .a belated introduction.

My name is Jim Saunders and I live in Northern Virginia. I am retired from the Army where I served for 27 years as a military pilot. I also did lots of other "stuff." I retired in '95 and then taught science at a local High School in Warrenton. I'm since retired from teaching. I'm also a member of our local volunteer fire and rescue team. Enjoy working on mechanical things like tractors, vehicles, ETC. Additionally, I really enjoy gardening, bees keeping and my chickens.

Again, thanks to all who helped me with the above feedback. It was very educational. Furthermore, I was really impressed with the breath and scope of information you guys have and your willingness to help. I'm here to stay.


Jim