• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Clutch bearing Loosened on me

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KAYAKER2

Active member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
42
Location
braidwood, Illinois
displayname
KAYAKER2
Rebuilt my first clutch. Old clutch would have come off easy if the set screws were not boogered. Started engine and the clutch flew off.

The Instructions say:

1 If a new clutch bearing is to be used. Install it on the crankshaft so it is flush with the end of the crankshaft. Lock it in place with the locking collar. Be sure to lock the collar to the bearing in the direction of crankshaft rotation. Lock the collar in place with the set screw and nut if equipped

Whatever reason It didn't lock it tight enough. maybe 1. I tightened the collar in the wrong direction. 2. I used never seize. maybe that is why set screw didn't hold. (OOPS looks like I tightened with the chisel and hammer in the clockwise rotation direction. Not counter clockwise by the mark on the collar)
Looking at the engine installed from the clutch side.
SR Moment
 

Attachments

  • lock collar.JPG
    lock collar.JPG
    61 KB
I would not recommend using never seize. Used it on the lugs of my car once, and distorted the metal rims before they torqued to the correct poundage. :oops:
 
I would not recommend using never seize. Used it on the lugs of my car once, and distorted the metal rims before they torqued to the correct poundage. :oops:

That's because the torque required for lubricated threads is less than that of dry threads. If the given torque spec is for dry threads (wheel lugs on every modern car I have worked on) you'd have to reduce the torque to get the same preload if the threads are lubricated. IIRC the bolt torque table in the IH service manuals addresses this. Pay attention to that detail and it will be fine. I use never-sieze all over the place on my CC's with no issues.
 
Now you tell me! :errrr:
Not that I have worked on a lot of stuff, or that I have looked very hard, but I don't think I have seen lubricated torque specs before. I am sure they are listed somewhere, just not in a auto owner's manual.
I do use anti seize a lot at work though.
 
I almost lost a front steel wheel on my K5 Jimmy. I will never used never seize on lug nuts again. Same with a cub PTO. I am sure I tightened the wrong direction., for sure.
I have a 1 acre yard to mow in two weeks at the new house. I am waiting on carb rebuilding kit and muffler. Deck seems good and solid with no bearing noise.
Thanks Guys
 
Don't use antiseize/never seize. If you're worried about crankshaft stub corrosion, just smear a little engine oil on it. Install the PTO bearing flush with the end of the crankcase stub. Lock it with the collar, moving collar in the direction of normal crankshaft rotation, counter-clockwise. Be SURE the PTO cast hub has the large snap ring installed, then install hub over bearing until the snap ring contacts the bearing. Install the 3 conical set screws first, snugging them. Then nstalltge flat facd set screws, snugging them. Don't go crazy with the torque! There. You're done!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top