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Double check and make SURE you have the float adjusted correctly.
You did replace the needle and seat, correct?
Your carb kit should have included those parts.
Did you check the float to be sure it actually sill FLOATED?
If it had a leak and was full of gas or water it darn sure is not going to float and shut the flow of gas off like it is meant to do.
Always check for correct float adjustment when the carb is apart for any reason
 
Hey, I'm back with more carburetor issues. I rebuilt the carburetor with a kit from i save tractors.com and now it leaking out the front of the carburetor onto the air filter. Then onto the ground, so what would be the cause of this issue? I'm thinking of just replacing the entire carburetor because I keep having issues with this 50 year old carb. I see i save tractors.com sells the carburetor any thoughts on this will be a great help. I also attached some pictures as well. Another thing i don't understand is how it leaked at least a gallon of gas onto the ground, when the fuel shut off valve was shut tight on the fuel sediment bowl.View attachment 158970
The only way gas could be overflowing out of the carburetor bowl is if the needle valve is not sealing against the seat.
Issues may be:
* float is leaking causing it to sink.
* float is terribly out of adjustment
* Needle valve isn't on the Float correctly.
Gas is flowing out carb with valve shut off:
Its a new sediment bowl, isnt it? Sounds like a bad valve. With the gas line off the carb, does gas free-flow out of the gas line with the valve off?
I would take the carb bowl off, while the carb is on the engine. Let gas flow to carb, then lift the Float to see if it will shut off the gas.
 
Yes, my carburetor rebuild kit came with a new needle and seat which i replaced. I did tightened the valve on fuel sediment bowl and it now stops 99% of the fuel. I have included a video of my testing of the carburetor and an image of what the float looks like.
1000002063.jpg
 
The Needle valve appears to be closing off the gas as you lift the Float.
From the video, it looks like the Float might need adjusting. The gas flow should stop when the Float is parallel with the bottom of the carburetor Base. It looks like the gas shuts off too late. The end of the float, opposite the hinge pin, seems like you need to push up too high to shut gas flow.
Also you should not have too push up hard to get gas to shut off. Under normal conditions, the gas flow shuts by a simple floating Float. If you need to push up hard for it to shut off than the seat and needle aren't happy. In the video, it looked like you were pushing harder than what the Float would do.
 
ZK322, if you can’t get your carb working after all the helpful advice here, I can testify that the new carb I got from isavetractors as part of my full rebuild kit ( oversized piston, con rod, bearings etc is still working fine on my 1250 3 years on. The only issue was throttle butterfly shaft was a bit tight, but I added a little “extra” spring to help it return as it should. CC specialties may have carbs as well, he is an excellent source. The isavetractors carb is Chinese, which worried me but I think he probably does good quality control. Good luck!
 
The float is WAY too high. The Kohler K-series service manual is a free download from their website, and contains, among a lot of other useful info, the proper setting for the float:

FloatLevel.png


I have heard mixed reviews on the iSaveTractors replacement carbs. Just like the cheap ones, some people have had good luck with them, and others have not been able to get the tractor to run right with them. The OEM carb is much higher quality than any newly manufactured replacement you will be able to buy.
 
How can you tell anything about a carb that is as dirty and filthy as that one....AFTER rebuilding it???
It needs to be soaked in a cleaner overnight along with ALL the parts that came from it after disassembly.
There is more to restoring a Carb that just throwing parts at it.
 
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