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Battery Reconditioning?

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Just because something is posted on the internet, doesn't mean it is true.
I doubt very seriously that hooking a 200 amp charger to a battery will bring it back to life. Maybe bring Frankenstein back to life, but not a battery.
I would say that could easily warp the plates and cause a short inside the battery, or even worse, a nice explosion!

We use 200 amp chargers (480 three phase) to charge fork truck batteries at work. These batteries weigh over 3000 lbs. and require water added weekly, due to the chargers "boiling" the fluid while charging.
The lower the amp draw/charge on a battery, the better the quality of charge.

When the auto battery exploded in my face, the force blew acid up my nose, in my ears, eyes, and in my mouth down my throat. Pieces of shrapnel hit me in my face also, taking nice chunks of skin out of my face, ears and nose. Thankfully, no pieces hit my eyes.
I had to put some type of medical salve in my eyes for three days because of the acid burning my eyes. I also had to drink some type of antacid to help protect my throat.

As far as buying a lawn and garden battery, I always try to buy a "fresh" battery in the spring when they first show up. The battery will have a manufacture date on it (usually a round sticker) that will give the month and year it was made.
Most stores usually get a load of L&G batteries in the spring, and that is it until the next year.

Believe it or not, not everything at wally world comes from china, especially batteries. That would be a shipping issue, due to hazardous materials. Not saying some don't come from china, but there are several battery companies locally in my area that supply most stores. There is even a store that sells refurbished auto batteries.

I bought a "fresh" Value-Power battery from wally world for my S-10 back in November of 2017' for $48. I may crank my S-10 once a month to take the trash can to the road. Maybe put 100 miles a year on it (drive it when they salt the roads in the winter). This battery is still working, and I do not put any type of charger/maintainer on it. Bad thing is, they don't sell those any more, they are all Everstart batteries now.

What ever you do, be careful!
 
When the auto battery exploded in my face, the force blew acid up my nose, in my ears, eyes, and in my mouth down my throat. Pieces of shrapnel hit me in my face also, taking nice chunks of skin out of my face, ears and nose. Thankfully, no pieces hit my eyes.
I had to put some type of medical salve in my eyes for three days because of the acid burning my eyes. I also had to drink some type of antacid to help protect my throat.


What ever you do, be careful!
Marty thank you so much for the warnings, I certainly appreciate it. That is horrible what happened to you with the acid and bits of plastic getting into your throat! I know what I-told-you-so feels like after it's too late. I'd hate be around when a forklift battery explodes -- I'll bet it happens. I can't image anything exploding into your eye, must be terribly painful.

I am trying the CTEK as a desulphator, and I can always use another battery maintainer. The info on batteries is really a bit complicated, and you're right -- there is alot of bad information out there. I went to a few electrical engineering sites and saw where lead acid batteries have up to a 20-year shelf life if managed properly. One thing seems to degrade them is the buildup of sulfide crystals on the plates -- maybe that is where the pulse desulphator (CTEK) might work better than cooking or replacing the solution. Going to see if it works.

I've used Walmart batteries for years, particularly the Maxx 5-year ones.
 
In the latter 90’s, I put an Optima battery in my daily-driver Buick. Soon after, I put an Optima battery in a ‘66 Mustang which I didn’t drive very often.

Ever since, I’ve been disappointed with virtually every other lead-acid battery I’ve encountered. The Optimas were head-and-shoulders more reliable and impressively long-lasting. They also cost markedly more.

Anyone else run an Optima battery or have experience with them?
I had an Optima in my 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super. It lasted about 3 years before it was useless. I went back to the lead acid type battery, and I got about 8 years on the last one.
 
I bought a "Champion" brand battery at Wally-world about 1993 for my '87 f-150 4wd couple months later I'm hurrying into the high school parking lot and hit the speed bump kinda hard. By the time I left the high school a couple loosened plates had discharged the battery enough the truck barely started. By the next morning the battery was almost dead, had to jump it and the alternator burned up the short 6 GA wire that ran from the alternator to the starter relay, the wire harness caught on fire sitting idling at a gas pump. Walmart was completely disinterested in my battery problem, I wrote them up a $250 bill for repairs, towing, shop time at my local Ford store, New alternator, and a new Battery. Turns out GRC Industries made the Champion battery for Walmart, and being a Business Law Attorney is an entry level position, Needless to say I haven't spent a Dime at Walmart since. SON had me buy him a combination padlock for his wrestling locker that fell apart after he dialed it to only 2 of 3 numbers, and a VCR tape I bought worked to record the last episode of X-files but wouldn't play it back, something binding the tape.
Anyhow, I've had great luck with Die-Hard batteries, had one last 20 years in my Super H. Think it's a group 26 battery fits in a #70&#72 Cub Cadet, and even with all my lights, AM/FM radio, etc I still had one last over 10 years on my #72. Years ago the U-1 or U-2 wouldn't last a summer on the #70 with a K161 or K181 but I have new Die-Hard's waiting for next spring.
SON put a new Optima in his '93 F-150 Lightning, had a 215A alternator on it with a BIG azz stereo and the battery didn't last only 4-5 months. Guy son knew down in Indiana or Kentucky who owned a Lightning built custom wire harnesses for Lightnings, heavy heavy Guage wire, lots of Lightnings still running around with those harnesses.
I like the idea of the Optima, not sure why Son's didn't hold up. Used to be anything made by Johnson Controls was good, anything made by anyone else was junk. Honestly, I've lot track of who makes what! I bought batteries for FARMALL, WE used 250 at Rock Island and about 120 at Stieger in Fargo, for a while they were all Delco, and farmers still brag their 1086' still has the original batteries in it. We switched to Prest-O-Lite for a year or so. I bought one from them for my car & truck, I traded both off in 3-4 years.
 
I bought a "Champion" brand battery at Wally-world about 1993 for my '87 f-150 4wd couple months later I'm hurrying into the high school parking lot and hit the speed bump kinda hard. By the time I left the high school a couple loosened plates had discharged the battery enough the truck barely started. By the next morning the battery was almost dead, had to jump it and the alternator burned up the short 6 GA wire that ran from the alternator to the starter relay, the wire harness caught on fire sitting idling at a gas pump. Walmart was completely disinterested in my battery problem, I wrote them up a $250 bill for repairs, towing, shop time at my local Ford store, New alternator, and a new Battery. Turns out GRC Industries made the Champion battery for Walmart, and being a Business Law Attorney is an entry level position, Needless to say I haven't spent a Dime at Walmart since. SON had me buy him a combination padlock for his wrestling locker that fell apart after he dialed it to only 2 of 3 numbers, and a VCR tape I bought worked to record the last episode of X-files but wouldn't play it back, something binding the tape.
Anyhow, I've had great luck with Die-Hard batteries, had one last 20 years in my Super H. Think it's a group 26 battery fits in a #70&#72 Cub Cadet, and even with all my lights, AM/FM radio, etc I still had one last over 10 years on my #72. Years ago the U-1 or U-2 wouldn't last a summer on the #70 with a K161 or K181 but I have new Die-Hard's waiting for next spring.
SON put a new Optima in his '93 F-150 Lightning, had a 215A alternator on it with a BIG azz stereo and the battery didn't last only 4-5 months. Guy son knew down in Indiana or Kentucky who owned a Lightning built custom wire harnesses for Lightnings, heavy heavy Guage wire, lots of Lightnings still running around with those harnesses.
I like the idea of the Optima, not sure why Son's didn't hold up. Used to be anything made by Johnson Controls was good, anything made by anyone else was junk. Honestly, I've lot track of who makes what! I bought batteries for FARMALL, WE used 250 at Rock Island and about 120 at Stieger in Fargo, for a while they were all Delco, and farmers still brag their 1086' still has the original batteries in it. We switched to Prest-O-Lite for a year or so. I bought one from them for my car & truck, I traded both off in 3-4 years.
Optima batteries WERE made in the good 'ol USA. For years now they've been made in Mexico. I've got three that are at least 8-10 years old and still work OK. All were USA made.
 
Marty thank you so much for the warnings, I certainly appreciate it. That is horrible what happened to you with the acid and bits of plastic getting into your throat! I know what I-told-you-so feels like after it's too late. I'd hate be around when a forklift battery explodes -- I'll bet it happens. I can't image anything exploding into your eye, must be terribly painful.

I am trying the CTEK as a desulphator, and I can always use another battery maintainer. The info on batteries is really a bit complicated, and you're right -- there is alot of bad information out there. I went to a few electrical engineering sites and saw where lead acid batteries have up to a 20-year shelf life if managed properly. One thing seems to degrade them is the buildup of sulfide crystals on the plates -- maybe that is where the pulse desulphator (CTEK) might work better than cooking or replacing the solution. Going to see if it works.

I've used Walmart batteries for years, particularly the Maxx 5-year ones.
Usually any product that some supplier like Walmart has the battery of the part with different specs then the original manufacturer I always trust Deca batteries my brother has been dealing with deca for 60 years and thousands and thousands of batteries he has installed and taken out storing them and sheds on trucks to take back to the manufacturer like Deca to be rebuilt something is critical as a battery I would only use the manufacturers to battery not one that's been relabeled for Walmart Costco or Sam's
 
Optima batteries WERE made in the good 'ol USA. For years now they've been made in Mexico. I've got three that are at least 8-10 years old and still work OK. All were USA made.
I bought an Optima yellow top 6v battery in June 2010 for my Farmall Cub. Over 12 years old still going strong and the tractor is stored in an unheated shed. They haven't made the yellow top 6v for several years now. Good thing about Optima's is no acid and no corrosion and can be installed sideways or upside down if you want.
 
Usually any product that some supplier like Walmart has the battery of the part with different specs then the original manufacturer I always trust Deca batteries my brother has been dealing with deca for 60 years and thousands and thousands of batteries he has installed and taken out storing them and sheds on trucks to take back to the manufacturer like Deca to be rebuilt something is critical as a battery I would only use the manufacturers to battery not one that's been relabeled for Walmart Costco or Sam's
agreed. retail giants achieve their price points by stipulating a lesser product from the manufacturer.

manufacturers aren’t likely to decline such massive orders, even at the risk of undermining their quality/reputation.
same goes for tires, et al.

ECON 101: ya git whatchya pay for.
 
Got the CTEK unit and connected it. It's doing it's thing so we'll see how it works out.

CTEK.jpg
 

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